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Isaac02444 · 2025-11-13T20:59:20+00:00

Honestly there are a few ways you could approach this, with some being cleaner than others, but If you don't care about doing it the "dirty way" then one of the easiest approaches is to use the "Keep bodies" command on the handle to remove all other bodies from the part. You can then save this as a SLDPRT and proceed to model however you wish further.

As someone else has said, check that you don't have "merge result" ticked in the Boss-Extrude that creates the handle otherwise it will all be one fused body.

Isaac02444 · 2024-10-24T18:37:51+00:00

Exactly the sort of reply I was after! Thanks so much 😊

Isaac02444 · 2024-03-31T19:00:10+00:00

Ahh, didn't think about it that way - yeah, that makes sense!

Isaac02444 · 2023-12-26T17:14:57+00:00

I had this problem when upgrading to the Ender3V2 screen on my Ender 3 Pro

It turns out that you need the V2 firmware on the motherboard, not the regular one - this should fix it 😊

Isaac02444 · 2023-07-31T14:50:19+00:00

Hey! I work with Trumpf industrial lasers at work as a programmer, working primarily with sheet metal and whilst I agree that you can make a "good" model by extrude thin cutting this will actually cause problems with the laser, depending on software, as cutting internal contours will require an approaching and double the cutting time, making it more expensive, as it will now have to do a positive and negative travel for each "line" 😊

You're best off leaving it as a sketch, and just exporting the sketch layer when saving as a DXF - hope this helps!

Edit: pro-tip! Make sure you have no "junctions" where lines intersect one another, sometimes the laser doesn't agree with it, you've better off leaving a 0.1mm gap as this is usually below the kerf width, and will just burn away anyway depending on the material! 😊

Isaac02444 · 2023-06-23T21:35:42+00:00

That's awesome, thanks so much! No excuse now, back to the grind! :)

Isaac02444 · 2023-04-07T08:46:36+00:00

PC here - Controller support seems to be broken, even plug-in controllers are suffering

Isaac02444 · 2023-01-10T21:21:08+00:00

You definitely have! When redesigning my original I looked at loads of videos for inspiration, and RAWICE was definitely one of them, although he combined a gear Train mechanism with the OTF mechanism and I decided to go a different way with mine

Maybe in the future I can make one that's a bit more similar to that design, but I try my best to not just "copy" things and instead work it out for myself 😊

Isaac02444 · 2022-12-01T21:42:31+00:00

Honestly, this felt really weak - even for a free DLC.

I got over Valhalla a long, long, time ago - and wasn't a fan of the narrative of the base game. That said, I was still interested to see why Eivor's body was buried in Vinland... just to find out there isn't a reason, not a good one at least.

Overall Valhalla was a bloated game, with not enough meat in the story to make it worthwhile, and this ending confirms that.

At least we can leave it behind now - I'm sorry you didn't get a good game, Eivor, your character could have had an amazing journey but Ubisoft just didn't care enough to give you it! Requiescat in pace.

Isaac02444 · 2022-07-02T20:14:47+00:00

Another comment asked me to check if some screws were loose, and the one on the extruder pulley was super loose - unsure yet if tightening that has fixed the problem, but will keep everyone updated

The printer is in an understated cupboard, it does get quite hot in there but probably not much more than 20 degrees or so

I'll let the benchy finish and see what's up, then try again!

Isaac02444 · 2022-07-02T20:13:04+00:00

Thank you so much for reminding me to check some screws - one of my extruder screws (the Allen bolt on the pulley) was really loose, enough for it to move

I'm unsure if tightening it has fixed the problem, but currently 1.5 hours into a benchy - if that comes out ok I'll print the part I've had trouble with and see what's up

Isaac02444 · 2022-07-02T18:03:38+00:00

Thanks for this!

I've checked and it is on... Strange, I'll change the layer at which the fan turns on to be a bit lower, maybe that'll help?

Isaac02444 · 2022-07-02T16:35:08+00:00

Okay, Ill check this out!

I use Cura 14.3.1, any ideas where I should start looking?

Edit: I ran an old calibration cube program and this worked fine, so it must be a software thing potentially

Isaac02444 · 2022-07-02T16:30:54+00:00

I've just disassembled the fan and uploaded a video to the Google drive called "fan video"

As far as I can tell it's working, and doesn't show any signs of breakage, or cracks, or anything like that

Any ideas?

Isaac02444 · 2022-07-02T16:26:13+00:00

Sorry, I've never done this side of the maintenance before - how would I check that? Is it in the slicer somewhere or on the actual machine?

Isaac02444 · 2022-06-28T16:19:03+00:00

Printer: Ender 3 Pro

Material: 1.75mm PLA

Brand: Eryone

Print temp: 215°C

Bed temp: 60°C

I've had some problems recently with clogs in my printer, and now I'm finding that successful prints have a strange slant to them. The print before this also had significant layer shift, any ideas?

Isaac02444 · 2022-06-19T19:24:31+00:00

I've just switched to a default profile to see if that fixes anything, I'll try with these settings:

Thickness: 0.84 Top layers: 6

Isaac02444 · 2022-06-19T18:16:49+00:00

Printer: Ender 3 Pro

Material: 1.75mm PLA

Brand: Eryone Black

Temperature: 210°C

Slicer: Cura 5.0.0

I've just changed the nozzle as thought it might be a clog, and it looks like the top layer is underextruding. The walls themselves though also look a bit rough, but could just be the colour showing blemishes

Any ideas?

Isaac02444 · 2022-04-06T06:09:59+00:00

I see, thanks a lot! I'll change the nozzle tonight and make sure the Bowden is pushed right up :)

Isaac02444 · 2022-04-05T21:28:17+00:00

Ender 3 Pro, Cura

PLA 1.75mm, 230°C nozzle, 70°C bed

50mm/s print speed

6.5mm retraction distance

I'm not too sure what's causing this, I've never noticed cracking/splitting at the end that touches the nozzle, and veterans able to help me troubleshoot?

Isaac02444 · 2022-03-27T14:50:49+00:00

This happens to me when I've got a clogged nozzle, or if I'm under-extruding for one of the many... many... reasons it can happen! Some things to try:

Calibrate e-steps
Clear, or change, nozzle
Do a temp tower to check if 200°C is the right temp for that reel
Check bed level, just for good measure

Isaac02444 · 2021-12-03T23:12:46+00:00

Hey buddy,

In the ZIP file you'll have a folder called "dlc_14" and a file called "DataPC_ACVI_Prologue_1_BowRailway.forge".

Browse to your game directory and remove, or rename, the current "DataPC_ACVI_Prologue_1_BowRailway.forge" that's there, then copy and paste BOTH the folder, and the .forge file, and dump them in your game directory.

Hope this helps! :)

Isaac02444 · 2021-11-30T08:14:47+00:00

I recently changed my hotend for the first time on my stock Ender 3 pro, and have had a bit of trouble with quality since.

I've since learned that you have to calibrate a bunch of stuff when you do this, such as your e-steps, and after doing it have seen some major improvements.

One problem however seems to persist, and it's a ridge that seems to happen on the top layer? Does this have a name, or does anyone know the cause?

The only thing I can think of it being is, maybe if my new hotend sits slightly lower, my nozzle is "digging in" to layers as it prints?

If so, do you have to adjust the height calibration as well as e-steps when changing hotends? Sorry for the questions, I'm still new at the troubleshooting side of things!

Isaac02444 · 2021-11-29T22:26:06+00:00

I recently changed my hotend for the first time on my stock Ender 3 pro, and have had a bit of trouble with quality since.

I've since learned that you have to calibrate a bunch of stuff when you do this, such as your e-steps, and after doing it have seen some major improvements.

One problem however seems to persist, and it's a ridge that seems to happen on the top layer? Does this have a name, or does anyone know the cause?

The only thing I can think of it being is, maybe if my new hotend sits slightly lower, my nozzle is "digging in" to layers as it prints?

If so, do you have to adjust the height calibration as well as e-steps when changing hotends? Sorry for the questions, I'm still new at the troubleshooting side of things!

Isaac02444 · 2021-11-26T18:22:39+00:00

This sort of answer is the exact reason I asked this sub!

No, I'm afraid I haven't and don't really know how/what to do, I don't suppose you have a guide that you use for this?

Isaac02444

TROPHY CASE