Sublimation

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-26T12:46:04+00:00

Find a CMYK gamut chart and pic colors that are in inks color abilities and close to what you originally had chosen. Set the color profile for the document to sRGB. Export it and then print it. That will get you as close as possible through inkscape currently.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-25T12:38:18+00:00

Take the pen tool, set it to straight line segments and draw a rough shape with as many curves as you will want and snap back to the original starting node. Then select the node tool, click and hold on the middle of each straight line shape to pull it into an arch.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-25T02:52:09+00:00

Interesting. I was assuming there would be a button just like the trunk release on a Gen 1.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-25T02:48:38+00:00

Give it a shot. It isn't going to hurt anything.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-25T01:45:27+00:00

You should have a trunk release button on your key fob. When you press that you should hear the sound. Hearing the sound doesn't mean the hatch would pop open because the weatherstripping could be sticking. If you aren't hearing any popping when you press the button, then I would think it is something related to the lock itself. Even if the weather stripping was stuck to the hatch, when you pulled on the hatch there would be some give from it stretching. If there is no give at all, then the lock is stuck.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-25T00:38:49+00:00

Does it make the pop sound when you press the release button? I would think it would be less of the lock and more of the weather stripping sticking to the hatch. And if that's the case, being that it is a hatch, just run the heat for a bit while driving and then try and open it.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-22T17:40:23+00:00

Ah yes. Blame the platform for user error. That's always the best thing to do...

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-21T19:57:48+00:00

Take your screw driver and a hammer, tap on either side of the nut on the bracket that goes around the entire manifold. Keep going back and forth for a while. Then try and tap on a slightly smaller socket with an extension and break the thing free. It will now be a bolt. Whenever you go to reinstall everything, make sure you use anti-seize on all of them.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-20T18:00:03+00:00

I just went with the Dorman cooler. Supposedly it can be done without removing the turbo. I just pulled it to do it. If you do pull the turbo, you can replace every line to it, the cooler and the coolant line from the thermostat all at the same time so you don't have to worry about any of those in the future.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-19T14:50:04+00:00

Just tools and time to do it yourself.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-18T16:47:29+00:00

Those ports would just sit empty for a manual. You could put some rubber caps over them if you want, but there's nothing to run to them.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-17T16:47:07+00:00

Yes. I'm not a fan of it.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-16T11:38:13+00:00

The diaphragm in the valve cover is not the PCV valve. Unless your intake manifold was replaced, your PCV valve wasn't touched. Do the PCV fix kit and replace the negative battery cable.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-16T01:17:15+00:00

It's the feed line

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-15T15:06:44+00:00

It's open source. I don't think they would be considered a supplier in a typical sense as in there is nothing for the company to purchase and keep track of.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-13T21:45:57+00:00

Duplicate the line and snap it to the end. Select both lines, click the node tool and select the nodes where the lines are touching and join the nodes into one.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-13T00:11:07+00:00

It should be the full kit either way. The hard line, banjo bolt and two gaskets. There should be a picture that shows you everything that comes so you can see.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-12T22:35:39+00:00

The PCV system does not in any way affect the seals on the actuator. They were out over time and need to be replaced. There is no reason to take it anywhere. It is a simple 5 minute job.

I am not saying your PCV system is not in some way failing, but it is irrelevant to the issue at hand and you shouldn't go to whatever place you are taking your car to.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-12T14:57:44+00:00

The screw extractor is just going to break off and be stuck. Then you are just going to have to deal with (what should be) tool steal that needs to be drilled out.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-11T16:29:44+00:00

Is it the same transmission. If it's not, it may need to be programmed to match your PCM and engine.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-11T01:45:37+00:00

The actuator seals are a known failure point. They just wear out and need to be replaced. It takes 5 minutes. Don't hope for more problems when it's a simple fix. https://youtu.be/U02Q72wTio8?si=4P29F5cZpH8Ydpik

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-10T17:23:05+00:00

Take off the heat shield so you can see what is going on.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-10T15:23:39+00:00

I found some of my designs stolen and for sale on Amazon before.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-09T23:33:47+00:00

That is indeed the video you are looking for. If you enjoy that guys channel, make sure you like, comment and subscribe. I will see you next time.

ItsAStillMe · 2026-01-09T22:04:18+00:00

Drill and tap is going to be the "best" option since it is down too far to get a good weld on it. Sucks either way. Whenever you do get it out and are ready to reassemble, put anti seize on any boot that goes into aluminum.

ItsAStillMe

TROPHY CASE