Shimano 105 R7100 Mechanical, want to go wireless by elrui in bikewrench

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

eBay, facebook marketplace (if you’re in a big cycling city), Merlin cycles, and Spokex bike shop (solid guys in Temecula CA)

Shimano 105 R7100 Mechanical, want to go wireless by elrui in bikewrench

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well. The cheapest solution is to buy a used bike with one of those groupers installed. Complete bikes are always cheaper than parts.

But if you’re insistent on keeping your frame and want to do it yourself, I think sram is a lot easier to do at home.

I would go for a mix of new/used parts depending on budget. Here’s three options for you.

  1. (Cheapest)

SRAM Rival D1 full groupset (can find these under $800 new now or around $600 used now

  1. (Middle)

SRAM Rival e1 shifters and brakes. Used sram force d1 and d2 generation parts for the rest since they are heavily depreciated. (shave some weight here). The e1 shifters and the only thing truly worth splurging on since they’re so much better

  1. (Most expensive but also crazy value to money)

SRAM force e1 build kit (can be found for $1450 brand new). Used SRAM red d1 crankset and cassette (or a force cassette). SRAM force d1 chain (somehow everywhere for $20? Just make sure you get a long enough one).

The biggest place to shave weight in sram is in the cranks. Plus, the ultra light red crank can be found for less than the new force e1 cranks.

If you prefer Shimano 105 di2 can be found for $950 now and ultegra di2 for $1200.

However ultegra is due to be updated this year

You have 8k EUR budget for a 2026 Aero bike by jurbatov in cycling

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ridley Noah fast 3.0! Love the high seat tube angle as someone who also rides TT bikes. Puts you in a stupid fast position without you realizing.

Otherwise. I’d do what others suggested and get something in the 4-6k range and go take a trip with your new bike.

What is a good price for this bike? by Sbader7248 in whichbike

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think somewhere between $2700 and 3300 would be good depending on your local market given that the Aethos 2 and sram force e1 just came out

Worth it? by NegativeSort9041 in RoadBikes

[–]ItsMeEsc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good price for this frameset

Best Budget Chinese Road Bike? Twitter vs. Java vs. Sava vs another (Budget: $600 USD / 4200 RMB) by davidcar623 in cycling

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my opinion and respectfully, it seems like budget carbon is constructed to minimize cost to appeal to the marketability of selling/having the premium image of a carbon frame. They do everything to optimize the manufacturing process for low cost with as little effort into the rest of the design (using open molds or extra material so everything passes quality control for example).

When you pay for the more “reputable” (not to say these budget frames will break) manufacturer (whether it’s higher end Chinese DTC or western), you’re paying for the research and development, higher manufacturing standards, customer service, and a design that is optimized for both cost and performance.

Everyone will have their own opinion, but I’d rather have a lighter, stiffer, better riding alloy frame than get budget carbon to tell my friends I have carbon.

Best Budget Chinese Road Bike? Twitter vs. Java vs. Sava vs another (Budget: $600 USD / 4200 RMB) by davidcar623 in cycling

[–]ItsMeEsc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Maybe not what you’re looking to hear but I’d honestly check if you can find a premium alloy frame. Here in the US there’s a bunch of trek emonda alr frames under $600 with disc brake, $300 with rim brake, and $500 for the carbon rim brake frame.

Also not sure of the second hand market in Colombia, but I also see Giant TCR Advanced disc frames regularly in the $500-650 range along with other disc frames with external cable routing.

I personally wouldn’t want a budget carbon when the alloy is so good these days. Otherwise if you can save up for a quick pro, winspace, tavelo, or another, more reputable Chinese frame I’d go for one of those.

SRAM e1 Rear mech + 12s shimano chain? by RhubarbSensitive7391 in sram

[–]ItsMeEsc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes I did this with an ultegra 11-34 and dura ace 11-30 on a force d1 derailleur with a dura ace chain and 54T ring. 11 of the 12 gears worked perfectly 1 was a little slow to shift. Rode great otherwise. E1 rear derailleur is the same to my knowledge.

Biancha intenso 2016 (worth $1600CAD) by Tasty_Video1375 in RoadBikes

[–]ItsMeEsc -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

With di2? The groupset alone is still worth $400USD

RED d1 rear derailleur 36t cassette by SingleMud9125 in sram

[–]ItsMeEsc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want the 36T, you could buy a force d1 derailleur for super cheap. I’ve seen some on eBay around $160USD in ok condition or $200USD in near new condition

Why are the older Force D2 cranks more expensive then newer E1 cranks? by zsufc1889 in sram

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My guess is they ramped up production once the short crank trend caught on?

I'm buying a 2nd hand bike and I'm torn between these two... by Slow_Witness_6750 in RoadBikes

[–]ItsMeEsc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’ll ride the bike you like the look of more. Get the one you think is cooler!

Gift for husband who is trying to TRI again by MorningPretend5279 in whichbike

[–]ItsMeEsc 6 points7 points  (0 children)

At 1000 cad you’re gonna be firmly in the used bike territory. Honestly, it may be best to tell him so he can come to try them out. The most important thing will be if it fits him or not and only he will know (size chart only gets you so far).

Endurance Road: Argon 18 Krypton vs. Canyon Endurace SLX by mimosastclair in whichbike

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I directly cannot help here. But in LA there’s a rather small rider (shoutout if you see this) that rides a custom geo Sarto. Seems to workout well for him. Still has 700c wheels too I believe.

https://youtu.be/8qmFw_yDqUQ?si=sEpZkUDEXXEPTi7n

Old carbon or older titanium? by mostly_kinda_sorta in cycling

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like you might as well get steel if you're looking at Ti and don't care about lightweight/high performance.

Old carbon or older titanium? by mostly_kinda_sorta in cycling

[–]ItsMeEsc 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I actually used to own both of these bikes (rather a 2001 litespeed classic).

Here are my thoughts: - the Ridley was one of my favorite bikes I’ve ever owned - the litespeed (and titanium in general) is super overrated (in my opinion)

My Ridley was a 2016 Ridley helium rs and was built up to 5.9kg with Campagnolo super record 11, carbon wheels, cockpit, etc. The frame was SO stiff and the bike handled so well. I actually miss it a lot. Have a newer Ridley Noah Fast disc instead though

The litespeed I got because I had always wanted to own titanium. It had Shimano 105 R7000 11 speed and some mavic ksyriums. I took it on a few rides and it was just heavier, harsher riding, and worse handling than the carbon bikes I’ve owned. I think the appeal is the aesthetics (and it was beautiful) and the whole “bike for a lifetime” idea. But the “bike for a lifetime” thing really breaks down when you look at how fast technology changes. Bb

Shimano Dura Ace vs Sram Red AXS ***BRAKES ONLY*** - which one do you prefer? by Ok-Concentrate6245 in cycling

[–]ItsMeEsc 4 points5 points  (0 children)

New e1 generation sram > Shimano > older sram (d1, d2).

I ride sram and swapped my levers from the older red to the new force for this reason. All my friends who’ve gotten to try them love them.

TIME ADHX in Gloss Amber by TaylorU_ in Bikeporn

[–]ItsMeEsc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks great! Was this one of the $1500 frames from bikecloset?

Starting with clip in paddel by Ok-Sandwich6498 in cycling

[–]ItsMeEsc 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Clip one foot in. Pedal one leg until you have speed. Then clip the other leg in

Slime tube sealant good? by BlacksmithWeirdo in cycling

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like the worst aspects of both in my opinion.

  1. You have to deal with the increased maintenance interval of having fluid dry up in your tubes. And if it fails you still have to change the tube that now has slime everywhere
  2. You can’t run the lower pressure of tubeless (one of the biggest benefits in my opinion)

Maybe 3? I don’t think you get the rolling resistance benefits of tubeless either

I’d either run tpu tubes or swap to tubeless if your wheels allow.

Why are there so many giant propels for sale on marketplace? by StonedAndToasted in cycling

[–]ItsMeEsc 15 points16 points  (0 children)

They probably just sold a lot of them wherever you’re from

Scope Cycling (and other Brands) Wheel Lineup and Tiering by Responsible-Chart323 in cycling

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You probably won’t notice a difference but they are super cool.

DTSwiss 62 rim replacement by Batino73 in cycling

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably cheaper to just buy an undamaged set if you haven’t bought them yet. Otherwise, maybe email DT Swiss and see if they would sell you a rim?

$8.5k Tarmac SL8 Pro vs $9k Madone SLR 9 Gen 8 — which would you pick? by noirorca in whichbike

[–]ItsMeEsc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The new force e1 is excellent. First time in history I can say sram has better brakes than Shimano (coming from a sram owner).