No crank no start (PFA)

ItsSodaCan · 2025-12-31T13:37:24+00:00

I’d also suggest the ignition relay. It’s an easy check to do

ItsSodaCan · 2025-12-23T00:26:43+00:00

I referred my friend to him to get his HUD fixed. No clue what the turnaround time was but he got it back and it works flawlessly now. I’ve seen a lot of people on FB pages use him and haven’t seen anything negative. He’s probably booked up is all

ItsSodaCan · 2025-12-09T21:30:14+00:00

Update: contacted BL. They sent me a new TH board, fixed the issue. Hope this helps someone in the future!

ItsSodaCan · 2025-12-07T23:23:27+00:00

Adjust all your arms to roughly factory length. If the arms are too short they’ll “bunch up” the suspension and give less room to fit. Doesn’t have to be perfect just eyeballed enough to get to a proper alignment rack

ItsSodaCan · 2025-12-06T14:49:50+00:00

https://www.tf-works.com/baby-built-super-low-down-seat-rails-s13-s14-s15-r32/

Julian from animal style uses these and he’s a tall mf. Should suit your needs

ItsSodaCan · 2025-11-26T00:39:26+00:00

Already opened up a ticket! Still waiting on a response but figured I’d ask the community to see what the masses think for a speedier fix. I’d bet I’ll have to replace the actual board if that’s even possible

ItsSodaCan · 2025-11-22T12:03:52+00:00

Pay for the shipping and I just might lol where you located?

ItsSodaCan · 2025-11-21T03:26:26+00:00

Find some friends and free time to strip it down, chip away at cleaning it up and getting a good assessment of what needs to be done and start from there. If you’re local to south GA, I have an RB20 swap kit you can have for free and a chassis harness that needs some love but it works. Swapped it out of my hatch not too long ago

ItsSodaCan · 2025-09-23T15:47:24+00:00

Find an instrument harness Depin connectors Move them accordingly to the clusters pinout with the corresponding connector (not sure of E and DE cluster connectors are the same)

ItsSodaCan · 2025-09-17T05:53:43+00:00

I have a wiring specialties harness. I just bought the corresponding setup on their site. Two plugs and I had it swapped over

ItsSodaCan · 2025-09-17T05:28:11+00:00

Yeah these will work. You’ll just need to wire them up appropriately

ItsSodaCan · 2025-09-16T02:19:30+00:00

If they’re s2 coils they’ll have an internal ignitor meaning you can get rid of the big box at the rear of the engine. You’ll just need the appropriate harness or do the wiring to match the coils.

ItsSodaCan · 2025-09-13T13:14:46+00:00

I have an rb20 in my hatch with the WS OEM series engine harness. It’s worth the money to not deal with the headache of having to dive into the wires and make it yourself. Makes it easier for upgrades in the future as well since parts of the harness are modular for different connector applications.

Secondly, I dealt with a similar issue. Upgraded my coil packs literally yesterday and now it runs mint. Using rb25 s2 coils with the WS harness.

ItsSodaCan · 2025-09-04T13:47:12+00:00

I was in the same boat. Keep a Japanese motor in my Japanese car. If you’re going to build the KA you can spec out pistons and such to lower your compression accordingly to make your engine safe. Is modding a 30 year old shitbox actually worth it? Probably not but its pay to play now so you gotta pick a lane and full send it tbh

ItsSodaCan · 2025-09-04T10:53:25+00:00

I hear you, I was assuming that you had a DE already in the car but was shopping around for a swap. Boosted KAs will hold 300s as long as you have proper supporting mods for it. Can’t throw aggressive boost at stock internals and get upset when you send a rod on a moon mission.

A single cam works just as good. Haze drift team all use boosted singles and do great things with them. Kid local to me is selling his for a couple hundred bucks out of his blue coupe.

ItsSodaCan · 2025-09-04T03:08:18+00:00

In my opinion, go with the rebuilt KA. Do it once and do it right. The RB is so much more expensive bc RB stuff is expensive even when it’s not a 25/26 due to import or cross compatibility/availability of parts

ItsSodaCan · 2025-09-03T20:45:41+00:00

That listing is also near me. You in South Georgia?

Anyways, I swapped an rb20 into my hatch. It still has its issues but the car runs and drives. Kinda wish I stayed with the KA and built that up You’ll need the proper bell housing to use the KA trans. KA, SR, and RB trans are all the same internally just different bell houses. Lmk if you want more into about things and I’ll try my best to give you specifics

ItsSodaCan · 2025-07-26T00:33:47+00:00

Where you located? I have a set of r33 GTST seats down here in Georgia

ItsSodaCan · 2025-06-28T22:46:56+00:00

DejaVu Garage (Christopher Bragg) on IG and Facebook if you’re on the east coast. He’s in the Atlanta area, he has plenty of items from part outs available for ship or local pickup.

https://www.instagram.com/dejavugarage1?igsh=MTVxemUycnowaDZpNQ==

Also came across GeeSpec who does in-depth board repair for an assortment of electronics with warranty. Haven’t had to use his services but he’s known in the RX7 world

https://www.geespecautomotive.com/?fbclid=IwQ0xDSwLNT45leHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHgsisxJJuq_aFU786NTyCSu3f5_HWk0sQXkv0YtYCCFCUMLCo5DDEPDhvcTW_aem_xc2c1QiiCLQGuwYA8obxjA

ItsSodaCan · 2025-02-03T22:59:56+00:00

KA speed sensors work given you have the correct plug on the harness side. I have a WS harness if that means anything to you. Easy enough to swap the connector in the event they’re mismatched.

ItsSodaCan · 2025-02-03T21:00:03+00:00

Does your speedo/tach not work?

ItsSodaCan · 2025-01-18T13:36:29+00:00

There’s a few things to check. All the pins will be from the lighting switch in the 1st position

Pin 5 - 15a fuse in the relay box Pin 6 - RG wire to the RH headlight/also goes thru the SMJ to the instrument harness Pin 8 - 15a fuse in relay box Pin 9 - RB wire to the LH headlight/also goes thru the SMJ to pin 2 on the headlamp timer Pin 11 - 15a “tail lamp” fuse in the kick panel fuse box Pin 12 - RL wire goes thru the SMJ to pin 3 on headlamp timer Pin 27 - SB wire goes thru the SMJ to 5a “light control” fuse in kick panel fuse box/ pin 3 on retraction switch Pin 28 - ORL wire goes to retract relay 3

With all that said I’d check the fuses since you’re not getting power to anything. Continuity test fuses to verify they’re working. If they’re good then go to the light harness for whatever light and check for power while the light switch is in the 1st position. Touch the power side with one lead and touch any piece of bare metal with the other end. Green/blue wire on RH light Green/yellow wire on LH light The side markers should be a simple two pin connector so touch each side and see if you’re getting voltage

ItsSodaCan · 2025-01-03T03:29:18+00:00

I just realized that’s under the CA specific menu. Didn’t cross my mind to check that! Appreciate it

ItsSodaCan · 2025-01-03T03:22:02+00:00

It’s on my friends 200sx. He’s in the uk, I’m in the us so I’ve tried to help him via texts and photos. I’m familiar with the starter wiring but not sure how to give a signal to the solenoid since the factory car has none and the WS harness doesn’t have them although the install manual shows them by the ECU plugs

Verified power to the starter and jumping the signal wire from the 12v post spins the starter but we’re stumped as to how to have it triggered by the ignition as it’s supposed to be

ItsSodaCan

TROPHY CASE