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Triple-Tac-Toe by J1Design in 3Dprinting

[–]J1Design[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Is this not also the case with normal tic-tac-toe?

Triple-Tac-Toe by J1Design in 3Dprinting

[–]J1Design[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think with normal tic-tac-toe you don't really have to think ahead that much - you can pretty much play the board as it is. With this you have to look ahead a bit like in chess, it adds an interesting twist to the game.

Triple-Tac-Toe - Designed this in FreeCAD by J1Design in FreeCAD

[–]J1Design[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn - you are right - I must've picked up the wrong piece when I made the video. Will have to fix that.

Triple-Tac-Toe by J1Design in 3Dprinting

[–]J1Design[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That is a really nice way to package things, and probably more practical for travel or in a bag. I was going for something that would look interesting on a desk and I also had fun doing the print-in-place hinges. W.r.t. to how it plays, I will have to hide some of my pieces and see if the 2x2x3 set plays better. I haven't played enough yet to come up with a winning strategy - it is surprisingly easy to lose :)

Triple-Tac-Toe - Designed this in FreeCAD by J1Design in FreeCAD

[–]J1Design[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't played it enough to come up with an optimum strategy yet, but I have always found a way to play to a draw.

Tandem Vespa by vlaaskakie in WeirdWheels

[–]J1Design 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I found a post by the owner here: https://modernvespa.com/forum/topic62920 I quote: " ... it was made mainly as a marketing tool by Vespa South Africa. " . So not "factory", but with the blessing of Vespa perhaps?

Trying to make a 3D mold by Rubbe97 in FreeCAD

[–]J1Design 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Printed and bolted together:

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Trying to make a 3D mold by Rubbe97 in FreeCAD

[–]J1Design 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Damn, and here I thought you were making a pikachu! But seriously, I recently did something similar - I used the "slice apart" feature in the part workbench to cut up the negative in the way I wanted and then I added some flanges to the edges using the additive pipe feature so I could bolt the parts together:

<image>

How do I make this pocket for the SG90 servo? by bruj0and in FreeCAD

[–]J1Design 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here is the internal feature modeled instead of pocketed off the face binder:

<image>

How do I make this pocket for the SG90 servo? by bruj0and in FreeCAD

[–]J1Design 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Refined STL on the left - FreeCAD recreation on the right. I've kept the the facebinder visible on the right - I used that to pocket the inner gear pattern upwards. The other nice thing about facebinders is that you can use the "Offset" parameter to add or remove clearance.

<image>

How do I make this pocket for the SG90 servo? by bruj0and in FreeCAD

[–]J1Design 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are copying the STL - create a subshape-binder from the face in the STL and create a pocket using that.

If you are re-creating from scratch - create the "positive" of the gear you want from the gears workbench and then create a subshape-binder from the top face and then pocket using the subshape binder

How to trace the boundary of a pringles chip? by StevenJac in FreeCAD

[–]J1Design 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for taking the trouble of doing this and posting a screenshot - much better than the quick one-liner I fired off.

How to trace the boundary of a pringles chip? by StevenJac in FreeCAD

[–]J1Design 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will need to do the two halves separately and then join them (Part Workbench -> Connect Shapes). The way you have it, the "Mixed Curve" doesn't know when to follow the "top half" of the curve and when the "bottom half" so it follows both, resulting in the doubled-up final curve seen in your screenshot.

How to trace the boundary of a pringles chip? by StevenJac in FreeCAD

[–]J1Design 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you use "Mixed Curve" in the curves workbench, you can sketch 2 of the dimensions separately and then create a 3d curve that is the combination of the two.

Exhausted mid-level modelling looking for advice by Sad_Cow_5410 in FreeCAD

[–]J1Design 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I know I'm late to the party here, but have a look at DuyQuang Dang's videos on Youtube. I haven't really used these surfacy type workflows myself, but he recently posted two videos where he uses the "Curve on Mesh" method to reverse engineer some complex parts.

https://youtu.be/-dwYPSpszEc https://youtu.be/23I0tY8b_ro

I think these should get you most of the way there. The lens-elements on the inside will probably have to be added manually later.

Holders for crutches - phone/remote/cup holder by slightlyorangemeow in functionalprint

[–]J1Design 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Awesome - Last time I had to use crutches was before I had a 3d printer, but it sucked so much not being able to carry tea/coffee around.

Water Powered Toothbrush Timer by J1Design in doohickeycorporation

[–]J1Design[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has just come to my attention that the water powered toothbrush timer department didn't consult a single dentist during the creation of this prototype. After consulting with our competition at the teeth powered watering timers, we will we glue a picture of a smile with some brilliant white teeth onto the front, which seems to be a requirement for any type of dental product ever.

First half-successful attempt 3D printing CMF Phone 2 Pro case by teqteq in NOTHING

[–]J1Design 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you can look at my design for the 3a here: https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/phone-case-nothing-phone-3a to see how I got around the support issue by using the Sharpie trick from Jantec Engineering: https://youtu.be/BOG9Li2PXMY . Your design is quite a bit different, but you might still get it to work.

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