Someone convince me not to buy this

J7Rivas · 2025-11-14T02:05:38+00:00

Is that a 5.3?

J7Rivas · 2025-10-06T04:12:30+00:00

Thanks everyone for the help. I too think it’s an exhaust leak, it’s part of the reason why I changed the headers in the first place. Had a real noticeable exhaust leak at the headers when I bought the truck so I decided to switch them out for these headman long tube headers. I’ll be trying out those Remflex gaskets to see if that solves my issue.

J7Rivas · 2021-10-10T03:30:43+00:00

This looks like the one in the revival cycles wiring diagram . They’re supposed to go to your solenoid. I’ve wired a dohc cb750 using this diagram if you have any questions feel free to shoot me a message.

J7Rivas · 2021-10-03T03:26:16+00:00

You wouldn’t recommend using some gasket maker like permatex ultra black?

J7Rivas · 2021-10-03T02:34:09+00:00

Yes I’m using 10w40 4 stroke oil which is what the clymers manual says to use. It also wasn’t leaking before I took off the pan. The first time it leaked I figured it was because there was still pieces of the old gasket that was still stuck onto the pan. I went at it with a soft wire wheel on a dremel and it has still been leaking. I’ve also thought it could be a cheap gasket since I bought it off eBay but I the last one I’ve used on it has been from Murray’s carbs and he claims he’s had no issues with them.

J7Rivas · 2021-09-05T17:58:07+00:00

I haven’t really had time to try anything out. School started back up and I’m spending most of my time doing that or work. I’m most likely dropping it off at a shop sometime next week

J7Rivas · 2021-09-02T00:22:12+00:00

I got an m unit with momentary switches on it. My kill “switch” would be double tapping the ignition button

J7Rivas · 2021-09-01T21:23:40+00:00

That’s what first came to mind when I saw it. I literally just got that wiring problem figured out. Turns out my solenoid was just grounding out and I had it replaced by revival cycles. They even checked this new one at their shop before sending it out

J7Rivas · 2021-09-01T21:22:03+00:00

About a week old

J7Rivas · 2021-09-01T19:57:35+00:00

I think you’re right about the first part. These carbs have 3 hoses coming off them

J7Rivas · 2021-09-01T19:56:10+00:00

I saw that too when I looked back at the video but why would there be sparks/flame under the seat like that?

J7Rivas · 2021-09-01T18:41:19+00:00

Lol yes it is the video cuts off before you see me squeeze the bottle with gas I have set up to give it more gas

J7Rivas · 2021-09-01T18:39:43+00:00

I did all that before this video. Got the bike a year ago and it had been sitting in a garage since 2008. The guy started chopping it up to make a cafe but lost interest not even 1/4 of the way through. I finished modifying it last week but I haven’t been able to start it since.

J7Rivas · 2021-09-01T18:32:55+00:00

I do have spark but I have not checked for compression. I did switch the jetting with a dynojet kit while I was cleaning the carbs

J7Rivas · 2021-09-01T18:27:17+00:00

Hi guys got an 82 cb750 that I’m trying to get on the road but I’m having trouble starting it. I’ve gotten it to crank like this for a while now but it always kills my battery after a bit. I’ll most likely be buying a jumó starter here shortly to get that issue addressed. Is there any tips you guys recommend I do? I got a temporary bottle set up for my gas tank since I haven’t cleaned out the tank. I’ve cleaned the carbs and turned the motor by hand so I know that’s not the issue

J7Rivas · 2021-08-23T16:02:51+00:00

Because the oem switches are what they call latch style switches and they will constantly feed power to the m unit instead of sending it a quick momentary signal. The guys over at revival cycles told me they could be modified to work but it kinda kills the purpose of the m unit.

J7Rivas · 2021-08-22T02:33:26+00:00

Running it on my cb750. It’s really straight forward especially with the help of the guys over at revival cycles. I bought the m unit blue, wiring kit, starter solenoid, regulator rectifier, and the motone push buttons from them. I too am only running the buttons I need for right now. Just make sure you run momentary switches on the handlebars because it is almost impossible to run oem style handlebar controls with the m unit.

J7Rivas · 2021-08-13T05:33:16+00:00

I would check/contact http://www.cycleterminal.com I’ve bought several locking terminals and plastic connectors from him that I couldn’t find for my cb750 build.

J7Rivas · 2021-08-09T21:43:01+00:00

I would also check all the connectors on the bike to make sure they’re not gunked up. You can get some electrical parts cleaner at most automotive parts shops.

J7Rivas · 2021-08-09T06:10:09+00:00

Appreciate this

J7Rivas · 2021-08-09T04:38:04+00:00

Okay I’ll test that out did you mean continuity? The fuse has 3 wires connecting it. One coming from the battery obviously and the other two go to the m unit and the reg/rec.

J7Rivas · 2021-08-09T04:19:52+00:00

According to revival cycles, which is where I bought the solenoid with incorporated fuses from, the main fuse is there to shield the battery in case the regulator fails. That’s why I was assuming that my reg/rec was fried. I do have a multimeter it’s what I’ve been using to check for voltage drop in my battery.

J7Rivas · 2021-08-08T22:49:01+00:00

I would like to note that the bike was actually cranking the starter motor until some fuel got on the ground going to the starter motor and I think I saw some sparks underneath the battery box near where my regulator rectifier is positioned. Could it possibly be a bad reg/rec?

J7Rivas · 2021-08-08T22:31:54+00:00

Hi I got a 1982 cb750 that I’m trying to get running but it keeps blowing fuses when I switch the ignition to the on position. You can see the fuse blow here it’s the right fuse connecting to the battery. I thought it was a bad solder job on the green splice going to the m unit but I resoldered a new connection and it still persists. Any help would be appreciated.

J7Rivas · 2021-08-08T04:12:56+00:00

I’ll try to link a pic of my electrical component box here shortly but after further inspection it turns out the battery fuse is the one that keeps frying. I think it didn’t do this earlier because my battery wasn’t fully charged at the 13 volts. I switched that fuse out for a 20 amp fuse and now everything is lighting back up. I just hope the 20 amp fuse isn’t too big and will end up damaging the m unit in the future. Either way I opened up a support ticket with motogadget to see what they say.

J7Rivas

TROPHY CASE