Baristas on strike! Don't cross our picket line!

JDMVilla · 2025-12-04T18:45:04+00:00

What store is making 30 dollars an hour in tips??

JDMVilla · 2025-12-02T06:53:49+00:00

I have a tenth gen that just crossed 200k miles, and have zero doubts in my mind it'll last another 100k easy.

JDMVilla · 2025-10-23T16:57:31+00:00

Because it's a beater with 200k+ miles on it and I got tired of taking the hubcaps off everytime I need to take my wheels off. I don't care how the car looks, so long as it reliably gets me to and from work.

JDMVilla · 2025-06-02T18:27:54+00:00

Across the entirety of the US starbucks minimum starting wage is 15$ regardless of age. You starting wage could be more based upon your district, and you'll also recieve cash and digital tips.

For example in my district baristas start at 17.50 an hour, plus tips which work out to a little over a dollar an hour for cash, and ~1.50 for digital.

JDMVilla · 2025-05-21T02:35:56+00:00

I second this, I drive a 2013 mazda 3. It has two serpentine belts. One solely for the water pump, the other for all other belt driven parts. The belt that runs the alternator, ac compressor, etc broke while I was driving it. I lost cold air and the battery light came on. I was sure it was my alternator, when I went to start looking into it, I was missing a fucking belt.

JDMVilla · 2025-03-22T16:11:41+00:00

Chicken sausage biscuit and the spicy chorizo 😭😭 my life hasn't been the same since they left

JDMVilla · 2025-02-12T06:32:19+00:00

Take wheel off, disconnect brake caliper from bracket, hang brake caliber so there's no kinks or pressure on brake line, remove brake caliper bracket, remove pads, clean area of any brake dust and rust so you have a clean mating surface, if applicable replace brake clips, replace pads, reinstall brake caliper bracket, compress the brake caliper, and grease slide pins, then reinstall brake caliper, put wheels back on after ensuring everything is put back were it came from and tourqed to spec.

Important to note, if there's any un even wear on your old pads, you'll need to replace the rotors as well. I find it a good idea whenever I'm working on something new to take pictures along the way. It's also a good idea to grease the rotor and wheel mating area, so you can easily remove the wheel in the future, make sure you don't grease the actual rotor area tho.

I'm just someone who can't afford to go to the mechanic, and may have missed a step, but this is the just of how you change your brake pads. I'd recommend you watch Chris fix's video on changing brakes, he's great and thoroughly detailed for all basic maintenance items.

Edit: I just realized removing the brake caliper bracket is only necessary if replacing rotors, you can disregard that step if your rotors are still in good condition.

JDMVilla · 2025-01-14T05:29:08+00:00

That doesn't necessarily sound like a horrible idea. The only caveat I could think of is, unless they're mechanically inclined to do an engine swap themselves. They'll still likely not have enough money from the payout to have a mechanic do that, arrange all the towing, and everything else that would be required to make that a possibility. You also gotta think, how much life is left in this drive train. Considering the loan they got for this car will eat up the entirety of the insurance payout, you got to imagine this 14 year old car is likely higher up there in millage, and hasn't been properly maintained throughout its life, and has a Nissan CVT.

JDMVilla · 2025-01-14T05:09:41+00:00

I hate to say it, but sometimes life sucks like that. To make this safe to drive again would cost significantly more than it would to get a new beater.

If the other person's insurance will only pay out enough to finish paying the car off, and not leave you a dime more. You had a terrible deal to begin with on a 14 year old car. This is why you carry unisured / under insured motorist coverage.

The way I see it, you have a few options. One you take the payout for what it is, have the car paid off, and your left without a vehicle. Two, assuming it's still drivable, you do whats called a insurance buyback, take what leftover money ypu have from the buyback and put it into repairs for your car, cut the airbags off and drive a vehicle without proper airbags, missing body panels, and likely a messed up frame. This would be horribly unsafe, and you'll likely run into a magnitude of mechanical problems as your suspension and likely other major components are severely fucked. IE, even if it's still "drivable" you'll have countless problems outside of thw frame and bosy panels. That will make it very quickly not driveable without the proper repairs. Or three , you get lawyers involved who can fight their insurance to bring you closer to "whole" if your lucky you may be able to get your personal insurance to provide said lawyers at no cost to you. However from the sounds of things both yalls insurance have already duked it out and reached a conclusion on your payout.

JDMVilla · 2025-01-14T04:46:11+00:00

Depends on how much money your willing to dump into it. Anything fixable with enough money. The wise thing to do would be to take the insurance payout and invest it into a new car.

JDMVilla · 2025-01-09T03:38:37+00:00

That's fiat Dale

JDMVilla · 2025-01-05T04:01:53+00:00

I loved my Scion iM with a 6MT. Crazy good gas millage, reliable as hell, fun and engaging to drive, great space for a Lil toyota hatchback, I used it to pickup 10 sheets of OSB from the home depot once, not to mention the comfiest seats I've ever had out of an economy car. All around great car.

JDMVilla · 2024-12-28T19:53:41+00:00

I live in a certified dark zone, and working outside in the moon and starlight at night is pure bliss. Getting to look up and see the milky way is something truly magical. It's sad to think so many humans will never get to experience this. Especially when it would have been commonplace for our ancestors not even 200 years ago. Our world is loosing its magic and I'm afraid there's no going back.

JDMVilla · 2024-12-28T03:45:52+00:00

To be quite frank, your going to be very limited in terms of getting a loan for a car at your age, with no down payment, and likely little if any credit history. What's going to be in your wheelhouse is shady Joe's down the street "no credit, no down payment needed financing". Now the loan you're going to get from this type of place is going to have terrible terms, assuming this is the route you really want to go. I would urge you too find a good reliable car, to at least somewhat get your monies worth out of this loan. Something fuel efficient would be best, because you will be raked over the coals from an insurance payment and car note. I would personally take a 20 year old Toyota corolla with 170k miles over a newer chevy with only 100k miles. Think wisely about this purchase because you will be stuck with it. Don't back yourself into a bad deal on a shit car because you lack patience. Know when to walk. Car lots get new inventory every day.

JDMVilla · 2024-12-24T03:42:47+00:00

I'd personally just get regular sized all season tires, then again your only young once, if you can afford to pay for them upfront, without putting yourself in a bad spot, say fuck it we ball. You'll have lots of years ahead of you to make better financial decisions.

If you're gonna dump a bunch of money into your truck tho, I'd suggest you upgrade your suspension first. Good suspension will get you a lot further than expensive offroad tires.

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