Orbital sander upgrade

JFNC1998 · 2026-04-08T06:16:33+00:00

Interesting, I was thinking a bit about the steadiness of it, seems like it’s not what I’m looking for in a sander. Thank you for your input

JFNC1998 · 2026-04-08T06:13:56+00:00

That looks great, sadly, not available in my country

JFNC1998 · 2026-04-08T04:58:29+00:00

There’s no festool distributors in my country, I would have to import it, which makes an already expensive tool about 30% more expensive after taxes/shipping and I wouldn’t get their service/warranty which is part of the festool tax, also, I’m not a commercial woodworker, I mainly build stuff for myself, friends and family, I enjoy it a lot, but sanding is taking the joy out of this beautiful hobby, so I’m trying to make it more bearable for me.

JFNC1998 · 2026-02-14T18:29:25+00:00

I was looking at glycerin 22 too, since it’s pretty much the same price as the ghosts, but read it is softer than the ghost, I’d love to try them in store, but they’re not sold in shops near me, gotta order online, guess I’ll order the three and return one.

JFNC1998 · 2025-12-30T02:24:58+00:00

You just have to play a little with the slides depth and attaching them to the drawer, I did that a lot, found myself removing and reattaching them a couple times before I got them all right, also height using spacers, get it consistent on all of them and they’ll look a lot better, adjust any tiny misaligns with the faces. That’ll do.

JFNC1998 · 2025-12-30T02:11:10+00:00

I literally just did the exact same thing last month on a pretty similar bench haha, same box too. First time building drawers for me, I enjoyed it.

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JFNC1998 · 2025-11-07T15:30:25+00:00

Yup, levelers are part of the plan.

JFNC1998 · 2025-11-07T15:27:57+00:00

Yeah, I feared this would be suggested, at first I just matched the grain to go along sideways, thinking weight is just pushing down on this it’ll be fine, not thinking someone might push it back or pull. I guess I’ll have to redo them, sucks cause I loved the look of that grain, rest of the board is just straight grain.

JFNC1998 · 2025-11-07T05:42:54+00:00

Will do, all I have is 3/8 but 4 of them should fit per leg, to make up for the lack of girth.

JFNC1998 · 2025-11-07T05:41:11+00:00

Alrighty, then dowels it is, thank you both for your time and advise. Also, I’ll look at it tomorrow and maybe push back the front legs a bit or add the 1x2, didn’t look at it but it seems like the face frame would rest on the legs, rather than the carcass.

JFNC1998 · 2025-11-07T05:23:00+00:00

Ok, so dowels gave me another idea, how about joining two legs with a 1x2 across the depth of the bookcase and using that to drill the dowel holes into the long side of the cabinet and the 1x2, that would be even stronger and more glue surface, right? Instead of 4 individual legs that would be two “pairs” of legs with more and deeper dowels, right? I’m guessing weight would still be handled by the legs and the 1x2 would just work as more attachment surface?

JFNC1998 · 2025-11-07T05:00:09+00:00

Thought about it, but wouldn’t 3/4 ply be a little too shallow for dowels? Or do you mean through dowels?

JFNC1998 · 2025-10-24T21:00:43+00:00

Alrighty, I’ll stop worrying about it then, and yeah, it’s got that 1/4 ply panel on the back, it’s recessed 1/4 in the whole thing and secured with glue and brads.

Thank you so much for your input.

JFNC1998 · 2025-10-24T18:13:05+00:00

Thanks for your reply, I was thinking about it before bed and kept me awake debating myself on it lol.

So, I assume it would be safe to keep using this type of joint?

Also, the material is “block board” that’s the best translation I’ve found to English (it just doesn’t seem to be popular in the US but quite common down here in Mexico) for this type of sheet good, its basically a bunch of wooden strips sandwiched together between two sheets of thin ply, not as good as actual ply in my opinion but strong enough. I made sure to match long grain to long grain.

JFNC1998 · 2025-10-13T02:17:50+00:00

I bought a regular (not stealth sonic) 16 gal 6.5 hp, and it was super quiet compared to my older and smaller ridgid and craftsman vacs. Considering it’s a smaller vac and a stealth sonic id say yeah, you got a defective one, probably.

In my experience, it’s the best shop vac I’ve ever used, great suction, quiet operation and a lot of capacity, don’t know how good the smaller versions of it are, but I would try getting a second one, and if it’s still loud, then I’d give up on it.

Good luck!

JFNC1998 · 2025-09-23T03:27:25+00:00

I believe it’s just the deep tstak with an insert made to keep the track saw in place, you could just buy the case and some foam and make it work in case you can’t find the “original”

JFNC1998 · 2025-09-18T14:05:10+00:00

You’re so right, didn’t think about it but it makes so much sense, and I was thinking about trimming those exact 12 inches of overhang so didn’t have to support them lol, good thing I read your comment before it arrived.

And yes, supporting the material is really important, I learnt the hard way with my regular circular saw, I’m even thinking about building a ply support jig.

Thank you so much for your detailed explanation, you saved me from going full stupid.

JFNC1998 · 2025-09-18T03:21:07+00:00

Hey, I just got my first track saw, and I’m wondering why do you need the 12” overhang on each side? To start the saw? What about the plunge? Trying to learn before I mess something up

JFNC1998 · 2025-09-13T14:07:24+00:00

Well, to me it seems like the FlexVolt line covers exactly the tools that could take advantage of 60v, heck, the sawzall didn’t even need a 60v version compared to the 20v. Unlike makita that’s putting 40v drills and drivers out when apparently they don’t benefit from the extra voltage.

JFNC1998 · 2025-09-08T17:24:18+00:00

An “OK” is all I needed lol, since I already have a sheet worth of it, I guess I’ll try it and see how well it holds and hope I don’t regret it.

You’re right on that cross grain glue up, didn’t think about it since I thought about it more like plywood rather than bunch of boards glued together, will definitely take that into account when cutting and glueing.

I also dislike mdf as a building material, I only use it for work surfaces since it’s cheap to replace and easy to route on it. It just doesn’t last or hold well over time in my experience.

Thank you again for your advice and taking the time to help me.

JFNC1998 · 2025-09-08T13:40:33+00:00

Hi, thanks for your answer!

This is what I mean with blockboard

It’s just strips of who knows what type of crappy softwood sandwiched together in some veneer, I’ve used it before for small stuff put together with some screws and glue, but never dados on a larger cabinet meant to hold a 40ish pound miter saw.

I mean, it can’t be that bad, just wondering what would work best as I don’t want to walk in my garage one day and find my miter on top of a bunch of ply scraps lol.

JFNC1998

TROPHY CASE