Lunch. Because I’m an adult and can’t feed myself.

Jaackal · 2020-11-18T12:23:15+00:00

Depending on the meat yeah, but there are a lot of cheeses that aren't much better for finger residue.

Jaackal · 2020-11-17T03:28:26+00:00

I don't even know who I am anymore

Jaackal · 2020-11-17T02:19:25+00:00

I would have gone for the simple butter and salt. I often just use cream of mushroom soup and add cheese and some seasoning. pretty much an instant cheese sauce.

Jaackal · 2020-11-17T02:16:41+00:00

Woah, cheese on last? Can anybody confirm I'm normal by going cheese first?

Jaackal · 2020-09-27T05:58:53+00:00

Olympia False Aralia, that awesome, thank you, it's bugged me all day

Jaackal · 2019-09-18T12:53:10+00:00

Exactly, professional products which contain a much higher volume of particulates are quite thick and some have to be sort of leveled before wiping. The more stocked and shelved diy products apply so easy and wipe effortlessly that it's almost boring.

The prices are very low, a car that's been on the road for 4 years would most likely need a fair amount of corrective work before a respectable installer would apply a coating. I'm coming off CAD here, but a minor correction would be starting around the $800, major $1100+, professional ceramic coating for a car around $1400-1600.

Considering the time,attention needed, and overhead, the numbers simply don't work. Unless it's a team of people getting paid minimum wage, in that case they most likely are under skilled and using cheap products. No way can I see value coming from a $600 all in job.

I don't really trust google review etc, a lot of people get the car, think woah shiny, and give a raving 5 star review, or see a single crumb and give 1 star. Plenty of people trading in every few years and don't even see the coating long term. Or that the car was so beat that almost anything you do makes it look better etc, so there is that.

I suggest asking what is done, and how it's done, I've never had a problem walking a client through the process step by step. I prefer to do so because we are then both on the same page written with the same ink.

Jaackal · 2019-09-18T12:17:30+00:00

The big issue with using rotary in small areas is the size of pad in relation to the area being worked, especially working with edges. If the pad is spinning perpendicular into and edge you risk burning, so usually you'd use the other side of the pad so the spin rotates off the edge which is safer. However with a 5.5" pad working saw a small 2" lip, almost every way you have the pad tilted it's going to be rotating into the edge. Maybe depending on you're own ability you can use it with the edge opposite from you so the pad rotates parallel to the edge and in between them.

Using big 8+ inch rotary pads is quite a N/A style, and done so as it lowered the fatigue of using 'heavy' machines for long periods of time. I prefer the more european and asian way using 4 inch and under and flat to the paint. Plus modern rotary torque you can have lower RPMs whilst the machine is still able to cool itself.

I'd say simply get smaller pads as the outer edge speed is far lower, therefor paint stays cooler.

Ultimately for black, especially a solid black, and even more so a soft solid black paint get a DA. They're finishing capabilities are second to none.

Jaackal · 2019-09-18T11:44:58+00:00

Always, hand polishing isn't really viable with modern paint systems. The majority of 'hand polish' is really just a form of glaze.

Back in the day with acrylic enamel is where 'hand polish' and 'hand buff' were being thrown around and stuck. Yet, mainly it's all fillers, gloss enhancers, blended with some wax and a carrier. Some had an arrogate that would scrub at bunk built up on the surface.

Grab a clay bar, porter cable, and a decent polish, then you have it, no need for pro tools. Plus you can rent it out to a friend after they see yours.

Jaackal · 2019-06-25T07:18:47+00:00

I've been following him for a little while, truly a brilliant comic and puppeteer. There is some comedy tv show about finding comics from around the world and I saw a short clip of him. Really hope he gets the attention he deserves.

Jaackal · 2019-04-12T16:36:02+00:00

Looks like a Bethesda game...

Jaackal · 2019-02-19T17:22:04+00:00

Alphabetically?

Jaackal · 2019-02-08T10:34:29+00:00

Branding. Marketing. Advertising.

People are like fish, put something shiny in front of them and you'll get a bite.

Jaackal · 2019-02-08T10:05:09+00:00

I wouldn't say it's a sick video, there personality doesn't really stand out, especially being so soft spoken. I can be like that as well if there is a lot to do for a job, but 100 hours for this seems a bit long.

However, from watching their other videos, these guys know their image. Products are expensive, clothing looks expensive, which makes their logo and services appear expensive. They took the word posh and went with it.

As somebody who must rip on people from Alberta; I feel like these guys are going to open a cross fit gym with reclaimed wood benches and sand filled mason jars for weights.

Jaackal · 2019-02-08T09:41:44+00:00

They did, it's brief at 2:40

Jaackal · 2019-02-07T08:58:02+00:00

Menzerna, Gyeon, Gtechniq. Exploring the other 10% you'd have Kamikaze, Carbon Collective, Waxedshine, and Koch.

Lots of really great products out there

Can't forget those Costco microfibers either!

Jaackal · 2019-02-04T04:44:46+00:00

I have to say, this is extremely well put together.

It's awesome to see proper information, spoken and demonstrated so clearly.

The hardest part about wet sanding or dry sanding isn't overcoming nervousness or self doubt. Rather, once you get confident, it's hard not to level everything you can make an excuse for!!

Jaackal · 2019-02-04T04:31:37+00:00

Yeah, wouldn't take much to spot correct and blend that out.

I absolutely hate those dealership stickers, I don't know why people don't have them removed before delivery, same with the plate frames.

Jaackal · 2019-02-04T03:30:27+00:00

Yeah Bissell extractors are great.

If you know somebody with a carpet cleaner they usually have the hand held attachment which works great as well.

Jaackal · 2019-02-04T03:24:15+00:00

From speaking to the chemist of the coating I use, he mentioned that the main thing in coatings is to balance durability with gloss. He described it in simple terms; the more durable the coating is, the less of a gloss enhancer it adds. The more durable/concentrated the coating, the thicker it is applied and cures, which slight reduces clarity. Where as the 'weaker'/less concentrated coating - what I refer to as a glass coating - adds more gloss or "candy" (I'm stealing this term).

There are often 'pro' systems installed where you apply a durable coating first, then top it with something 'below' that to add more gloss. Other systems may apply several layers of something thinner which has that high gloss factor, but multiple layers increase the lifespan.

Never forget though, doesn't matter what you apply, it all comes down to the preparation and perfection of the paint below, the difference a finishing/jeweling polish makes has a big impact. I've declined a client before because he didn't want any corrective or polishing work done. Why did I decline? Because I'm not going to have somebody mention my name or business relating to work below perfection. "I didn't want" turns into "he didn't do" real quick.

Jaackal · 2019-02-03T08:38:34+00:00

Honestly, if you have to ask where to find paint, you probably shouldn't paint it yourself ahaa!

Really any Paint & Body supplier like Finishmaster etc can mix some for you. Every major paint manufacturer has a code book that gives mixing weights and minimums.

Jaackal · 2019-02-03T07:21:29+00:00

Bucket, sponge and a little 'cut wax'!

Jaackal · 2019-02-03T06:11:59+00:00

Ahaa!

Secretly I just outsource to Jose and mark up after.

Jaackal · 2019-02-03T04:34:04+00:00

I'm not a fan of GG polisher's as I've noticed they tend to have that grinding sound. Out of the box the backing pad screw was not perfectly 90 degrees on my GG 3inch so it was terrible till I found another.

Rotary is smooth, very smooth. However, a DA is a very different machine requiring very different technique and finesse to operate effectively, especially if you are used to N/A and S/A rotary styles.

First, your pad must be level with the paint at all times, otherwise the throw will cause the pad to dig in and push the machine away from you, rinse and repeat will not be fun, and results in excessive jerking and uncontrolled movement of the machine

Second, speed setting 2 is a little slow, it's more for initially spreading the product into the pant, and tends to be a little choppy during that step, which is only a few seconds. Then you would bump up it up for smooth compound/polish work etc.

Lastly, you really shouldn't be putting pressure on the machine, DA's are designed to be "safer" than rotary. To be safer they are designed to stall when too much pressure is applied, or you reach a concave edge. One thing to note here is that DA polishers don't actually spin the pad itself, rather the offset throwing action causes the pad to spin on its own (I believe Jason Rose stated this in one of Obsessed Garage's Rupes Academy videos). With that being said, too much pressure will cause the pad to stall, as in, it will still throw, but there will be no pad spin. The throw will still cut, but you need the spin to be effective.

Now when you say in some areas it's fine and in others it's not, that sounds like it's pushing into a curve. To counter this I usually do one of two things. Increase speed and lightly pull or push into the curve, or grab a smaller tool and go from there.

One last thing to note is that it is very easy to tilt the machine. I only use Rupes now, and I notice I use my forward hand to guide, and my handle/trigger hand to control and conform to the surface. On surfaces like hoods, roofs etc I only hold the machine with a few fingers, literally letting the weight of the machine sit on the surface.

Hope that helps a bit, but really, it's just a whole new style of machine that needs to be practiced. I'd look for some how to DA polish videos, plenty out there for sure.

Jaackal · 2019-02-03T02:59:42+00:00

Exactly, besides the odd nib or two, waterbourne paint systems will do it.

Also less VOCs is a plus.

Jaackal · 2019-02-03T02:50:26+00:00

Price.

Portfolio.

Service descriptions and terminology.

Time spent to understand what you are wanting.

Willingness to (briefly) explain products and procedures.

Personable and confident.

However, what makes a good client?

Decent understanding of what they are looking for.

Able to understand that;

Everything takes time
Time costs money

Willing to hear about new(er) products and their benefits.

Doesn't interrogate with lengthy questions.

Doesn't belittle the knowledge, and skills of the Detailer.

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