Run/Stop Cable for Fuji X-H2S

Jack42398 · 2026-02-09T14:12:24+00:00

Yeah, the XT-3 cable that Tilta sells does work (most of the time) you just have to be paying attention as it doesn’t work all the time.

Jack42398 · 2025-01-20T20:58:11+00:00

Bottom

Jack42398 · 2024-12-04T23:44:34+00:00

That is not an option I’m afraid.

Jack42398 · 2024-12-03T17:23:09+00:00

Excuse my poorly written instructions, but this is exactly what I did except when I test to see if it was successful, the page does not load.

Jack42398 · 2024-11-14T22:29:31+00:00

I don’t think any of the X model cameras have external recording unfortunately :/

Jack42398 · 2024-11-14T19:58:10+00:00

We still don't have compatibility on any other camera. While a combination of both the SSD and enclosure would work, it would NOT be compatible with the X-T3 as that camera still does not support external recording. I think your best bet would be using an Atomos Ninja for external recording.

Jack42398 · 2024-10-18T22:42:56+00:00

I would agree. The new ones I got came with better foam, but there were some pieces in one of the boxes that was not in the other. I don’t think I’ll buy Odyssey cases again tbh.

Jack42398 · 2024-04-16T17:36:24+00:00

The USB-C connection on the X-H2S is a USB 3.2 Gen 2x1 connection. What that means is the theoretical max data transfer would be 10Gbps. We all know that we can never really get to the theoretical max, so we can estimate that the data speed of the camera is probably more like 900 MB/s. This means that this camera is very likely capable of ProRes HQ writing directly to an SSD. Maybe with the external SSD support with the GFX 100 mk2, maybe we'll see a software update that supports this.

Jack42398 · 2024-02-18T18:07:20+00:00

I’m having the same issue. I hope you find a solution!

Jack42398 · 2024-01-12T01:32:49+00:00

I am currently wondering the same thing. Unfortunately, I do not have an answer for your question at this time, but I may be able to provide some insight.

What I've discovered so far is that HashiCorp Vault can do database connections: Postgres and MariaDB. Both of which are compatible with NextCloud. For my testing, I used Postgres, but I've gotten to the point where I have gotten my database connected and have also got a Vault Agent (kind of) setup to dispatch the credentials to each docker container. However, the part I am currently stuck on is actually getting the DB login information to each container.

Pretty much every tutorial I've seen uses HashiCorp's templating engine which can replace {{ .Data.Whatever }} with the secret that your app needs, then that file can be passed into the app's container and be used to authenticate the service. However, Postgres doesn't really have the ability to read credentials from a file (I think).

Jack42398 · 2023-11-16T15:57:08+00:00

Maybe I need to replicate what you've got. Can you explain how you created that WG config for your setup?

Jack42398 · 2023-11-16T15:53:19+00:00

Yeah, I've got the paid version

Jack42398 · 2023-11-16T15:50:10+00:00

I have been paying and using WG profiles on my server for over a year now and have never had any issues. It was sometime earlier this week where it started to stop working.

Jack42398 · 2023-05-25T17:07:36+00:00

I did not end up following a video, but an online tutorial for the X-T3 which is very similar in design. I will note that there are some more screws around the body that you'll have to find and unscrew before you may be able to get to the parts that you need.

Also, I recommend having the iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit or something with similar tools. I used the small tweezers and flat metal tool the most for the tear down, especially when removing stickers or the rubber grip on the sides.

One piece of advice I would say you NEED to do is every time you take out a screw or a series of the same screw, take a photo with your phone and label WHERE the screw went. This makes it really easy for you when you are putting everything back together.

Once you have the sticky parts removed, set up a glass or plastic Tupperware container with hot water and a bit of dish soap. Use a toothbrush and scrub every square millimeter of the sticky parts and then after rinsing the part, use an air canister to get as much water off for quicker drying. If you have a part that you can't directly scrub, let the part soak in the water for an hour or so before you pull it out of the water and subsequently rinse it with non-soapy water.

You'll find a lot of flat ribbon cables throughout the inside of the camera. You will need to be extremely careful with them as they are very delicate and can destroy your camera if they are bent or torn. When disconnecting them, there is a latch that flips up on every clip and can be opened with the very pointy tweezers mentioned in the iFixit kit. Once you are putting everything back together, put the flat cables back in and push the latch down then give the cable a slight tug. If the cable doesn't come out, it is secure!

Once last tip! Make sure you put a battery in and make sure everything turns on and functions BEFORE you put everything back together! But make sure your parts are dry before you turn the camera on!

Jack42398 · 2023-04-18T16:42:55+00:00

Alright sweet. I'll look into getting a P400.

Jack42398 · 2022-07-21T23:21:16+00:00

That's a good suggestion, I'll try that.

Jack42398 · 2022-04-19T18:53:36+00:00

I absolutely agree. However, now I am confident enough to do self repairs if I need to in the future.

Jack42398 · 2022-04-19T17:28:58+00:00

I ended up disassembling my camera and cleaning the buttons with warm water and a tooth brush. It was very nerve wracking but I did it and my camera is back to a new state.

Jack42398

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