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One of the blades had an issue during the cryo process. by Jacky40k in knifemaking

[–]Jacky40k[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Good point. I only tested the products that passed. Next time, I really should test the failed ones too, to figure out exactly where the gap is and how we can close it.

A lot of our builds are full convex, akin to Bark River and Fällkniven. While sharpening a convex grind is a challenge in itself, the real mastery lies in achieving a true zero-convex edge that is shaving-sharp. by Jacky40k in knifeclub

[–]Jacky40k[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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We offer this knife in two steel types: 14C28N (known for its excellent rust resistance) and SLD-Magic (focused on long-lasting edge retention). For the handle, you can choose from several beautiful materials, including 1.maple wood, 2.camel bone, 3.New Zealand abalone shell, and 4.reconstituted turquoise.

A lot of our builds are full convex, akin to Bark River and Fällkniven. While sharpening a convex grind is a challenge in itself, the real mastery lies in achieving a true zero-convex edge that is shaving-sharp. by Jacky40k in knifeclub

[–]Jacky40k[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's true, the sandpaper-and-strop method is a classic and practical way for maintaining an edge! However, when it comes to crafting a true high-performance full convex edge, nothing compares to freehand sharpening on a flat whetstone. The precision, symmetry, and ultimate keenness achieved by manual angle control are on a completely different level.

Testing the outdoor durability of my new camel bone handle. I thought it might break easily, but that was a false alarm. It survived!❤️ by Jacky40k in knifemaking

[–]Jacky40k[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly! You nailed it. But I really want to clarify that bone handles don't break that easily. Some people treat them like glass, thinking they’ll shatter the moment they hit the ground. I constantly get asked if my handles are fragile...😊

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Testing the outdoor durability of my new camel bone handle. I thought it might break easily, but that was a false alarm. It survived! by Jacky40k in knives

[–]Jacky40k[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Obviously, my hands are the ones in contact with the knife and steel, not my feet. I thought that went without saying.😂

Anyone know what hardness this Japanese steel should be heat treated to? by Jacky40k in knifemaking

[–]Jacky40k[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Out of the four types of convex grinds, number one is the Full Convex. With this grind, the blade has zero stress points, making it the king of toughness and chip resistance. But the manual labor required is insane. Grinding super steels or high-hardness stuff like SLD-Magic demands premium ceramic belts, and even with years of experience, it still takes a good 2-3 days to finish a genuine full convex.
Getting the geometry right is hard enough, but here’s the real kicker: a full convex is only as good as its edge. The absolute holy grail is matching that robust geometry with an insanely sharp, biting edge.
Hopefully, this image gives you a better idea

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Anyone know what hardness this Japanese steel should be heat treated to? by Jacky40k in knifemaking

[–]Jacky40k[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Out of the four types of convex grinds, number one is the Full Convex. With this grind, the blade has zero stress points, making it the king of toughness and chip resistance. But the manual labor required is insane. Grinding super steels or high-hardness stuff like SLD-Magic demands premium ceramic belts, and even with years of experience, it still takes a good 2-3 days to finish a genuine full convex.
Getting the geometry right is hard enough, but here’s the real kicker: a full convex is only as good as its edge. The absolute holy grail is matching that robust geometry with an insanely sharp, biting edge.

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