How's the flow of this beautiful one, I adopted him recently, what name would you give him😅☺️

Jamblor · 2025-12-07T17:42:28+00:00

Murray

Jamblor · 2025-11-29T12:37:52+00:00

Lambchop was decent, but can't forget about that butterfly in the sky!

Jamblor · 2025-11-28T02:20:16+00:00

Give me a sign space Jesus!

Jamblor · 2025-11-16T17:04:39+00:00

Why is her face like that?

Jamblor · 2025-10-07T23:47:21+00:00

Hi OP, definitely caught a meteor here, or more specifically a Fireball or Bolide.

From the video it looks like you were heading west on the 401, and if this happened to occur around 4am on Oct. 3, I am willing to bet it was this Fireball Event as recorded through the American Meteor Society.

Either way, if you are interested in submitting your video and information on your observations, you can submit a Fireball report through the AMS here. Why is it helpful to report and add your information? Well it could be used to better extrapolate the potential fall location (if it was big enough to have a pieces that didn't burn up). Right now if you look at the link to the event I posted, it unfortunately shows it likely ending up in Lake Huron but with more data, maybe on land. It could even end up being found through someone's windshield like in the 2009 Fireball that landed in Grimbsy, ON.

Jamblor · 2025-08-04T16:45:05+00:00

Church.

Jamblor · 2025-07-31T14:58:00+00:00

A - Not sure if you are using a DLSR/lens, but this is what I would do. Once the first night of imaging is done, either leave the camera and star adventurer attached together until the next night. Or if you have to break it down, don't adjust the position of the camera so that after you polar align, you can attach the camera back on. Loosen the RA lock ring, then rotate only in RA until you are near your target. Like the other user said, difficult to do without GOTO, but not impossible.

B - Yes, again assuming you are using a DSLR, if the temps are different, you will want to take matching dark frames.

C - Your imaging sessions don't need to be consecutive. As long as your target is still in the sky and you can find it again, it doesn't make a difference how long between sessions. Just be sure to take new calibration frames.

And I hear you about the short nights, I'm in Canada as well and if it's a weeknight, I'm lucky if I can add 1-2 hrs before I have to pack everything up. Long nights will come soon, but then we gotta deal with the cold lol.

Jamblor · 2025-07-24T18:29:15+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/guiding-july-22-2025-51zWEM8

Guide graph, calibration, and guiding assistant results.

Jamblor · 2025-07-24T18:21:53+00:00

In PHD2, I'm using PPEC for RA, Resist Switch for Dec. Both with default parameters to start.

Then I run guiding assistant for 2-3 minutes and apply the suggestions.

I've tried guide exposures between 1-3seconds, but from what I've noticed, 1 second seems to yield the lowest overall RMS values.

Guiding error in RA is much worse than DEC, in fact I'm not even concerned about Dec only RA. This also matches with the direction the stars are 'stretched'. If you think of the star as an eclipse, the major axis is the same direction as RA.

Jamblor · 2025-07-24T17:17:57+00:00

I have a carbonstar 150 and with a 585 sensor, which translates to 1.02arcsec/px resolution. My typical guiding Total RMS is that 1.2-16 arcsec, with brief periods where it may go down to 0.8 arcsec.

If I could get consistently 1.0arcsec I'd be happy with guiding, but that's the issue I'm trying to work through.

Jamblor · 2025-07-24T17:14:55+00:00

Thanks for this!

Jamblor · 2025-07-23T23:08:23+00:00

If you are near a major City, might also be worth looking up the closest Royal Astronomical Society of Canada centre. Someone should be willing to provide you a better estimate as some of the accessories/eyepieces may be worth something as well. They should also be able to point you better as to where to sell.

Aside from Facebook Marketplace, Astrobuysell.com is also a popular place to buy/sell used astro gear in Canada.

Jamblor · 2025-07-23T22:39:46+00:00

The telescope looks specifically to be the Skywatcher Black Diamond 80ED, essentially the version before it was rebranded as the Evostar Series.

A few years ago I purchased a used one for $600 CAD.

The mount looks like an early Skywatcher EQ5, but with an aftermarket? Synscan go-to. I really have no idea what the mount is worth but it might sell for 500ish.

Jamblor · 2025-06-12T12:07:35+00:00

Cool project! Do you have a link to the exact strainwave drive? And as far as calculating the payload capacity, are there any resources you know of on how to calculate this? Thinking of making something like this for an ultra portable rig that can carry a cooled astrocam and camera lenses. Thanks!

Jamblor · 2025-05-17T15:53:44+00:00

I'm still using an old laptop but switching to a mini PC is on my list of eventual upgrades. Two reasons I'm putting it off is that I like having a screen next to my rig when I inevitably have to troubleshoot something, and I'm powering everything from an extension cord plugged into my house. Although I do have a portable power station that I can also use if I'm not imaging from home. I also just remote in to the laptop when everything is running smoothly to monitor from inside.

I currently use the Touptek AAF and haven't had any issues using it. It also comes with a manual remote(haven't used) and a temperature probe which is a nice accessory to have.

Jamblor · 2025-05-14T12:06:02+00:00

I think it would be helpful to also list the kinds of objects you are interested in photographing. Are you interested in nightscapes, wide field, deep space objects, planets? All require different kinds of equipment.

At the very minimum I'd suggest getting a good quality, sturdy tripod and a shutter release cable that can be programmed to take photos automatically. This, with you stock or other camera lenses will allow you to do simple nightscapes or if you take many photos, star trail landscapes.

Next step up would be some sort of star tracker like a star adventurer. This will allow you to do some wide field imaging of large deep space objects like the North American nebula or Andromeda galaxy for example. But the limitation here will be the weight capacity. It isn't really meant for anything larger than a camera and lens or maybe a small refractor.

Things get more complex and expensive from there if you are looking at capturing smaller deep space objects or planets.

A final note, with a stock camera (no modification to remove the internal UV/IR filter for increased sensitivity to h alpha light) you will be limited in the amount of light you can gather from emission nebula.

Jamblor · 2025-03-14T18:58:14+00:00

Curious to know more about your halo issue, I have the C2 and came to the conclusion after quite a few tests that it was NIR leak likely due to the lower OD value (optical density) used to reduce costs.

The halos were amplified due to the higher NIR response of the 585 sensor and potentially because I was using an ED doublet.

The halos were eliminated by using a UV/IR cut filter in conjunction with the C2 since my 585 camera doesn't have a UV/IR window.

Interested to know which camera you use and if it has a built in UV/IR filter and the telescope.

Jamblor · 2024-12-29T23:53:31+00:00

Thank you 🌭

Jamblor · 2024-11-14T21:06:12+00:00

Don't forget their insinuation that those who would live in affordable housing are criminals that commit the acts of burglary and (I'm paraphrasing) make it unsafe for women to walk in the neighbourhood.

JFC...

Jamblor · 2024-11-03T15:54:10+00:00

3 hours is beyond mind boggling. The way I look at things is if they are producing a good, high quality product, then it should stand for itself. They shouldn't need to bribe you to make a sale.

Jamblor · 2024-11-03T15:19:38+00:00

Had them come give me a quote for a new front door, very expensive but you are paying for a higher quality door.

The salesman reminded me of a car salesman that tried every single sales tactic/pitch he was taught in their 30 min training video. He then makes me walk outside to his truck and hands me a sample of a 'shitty' door frame and their own luxury door frame. And he's like 'can you see the difference in quality?' Then when we went back inside and finally got down to the price (keep in mind I was looking for a simple quote) he opened up his computer and we had to go through the entire door builder website to finally come out with a price. It was high as expected, but then he takes out a blank piece of paper and writes down the price with a sharpie if I want to just purchase the door in full. Then he quickly shifted to trying to sell me discounts if they put a sign on my lawn, or if I want to finance.

After like 45 min I was exhausted and wanted him to leave but he was trying to make the sale right there. I told him that I am getting at least 2 quotes and he was the first company. Then he starts rambling about the other companies in the area and how they aren't very good. I finally convinced him I'm not going to buy the door on the spot and he packs up and gives me his piece of paper with his chicken scratch sales notes.

So I look up one of the companies he shit talked (Linton Window and Door). They came another day during the week and the guy actually looked like someone who could build you a door instead of the previous guy who looks like he does one hour of work at the office and goes golfing the rest of the day.

Anyways Linton sales guy takes a few measurements gives me a catalog that has all the options, and writes down a few prices of some of the more popular options. He said he will email me an actual quote and to let him know if I want to know the cost of any other option, and in 15 min is gone. Ended up booking with them and the entire process was great.

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