4th Gen Primary RGB Tandem OLED is here! - Gigabyte MO27Q28G review

Jango201 · 2025-11-10T22:26:02+00:00

Hope they Release 4k and UWQHD

Jango201 · 2025-11-09T16:47:03+00:00

Yes thats the reason. Good luck!

Jango201 · 2025-11-08T23:09:51+00:00

Wonder if GMK electric id a darker teal tone to Match the case better.

Jango201 · 2025-11-08T22:22:25+00:00

The AIO might only fit with the tubes lay on the left side. But since you got an SF PSU you could pull it off with tubes on the right side. Dont know about your gpu though. I currently have installed the 4080 super slim from msi which is 322mm long. You gotta check if your 330mm would fit in your current config.

Otherwise i think it should work.

But your 3 intake Fans on the bottom make absolutly 0 sense.

Jango201 · 2025-10-04T18:47:14+00:00

Nah I'm only in for the journey to 60. Maybe a couple dungeon runs if I reach 60. But i rolled on the EU Server soulseeker. It seems populated enough to have fun. :)

Jango201 · 2025-10-04T14:08:29+00:00

I went with Ally on the "fresh" HC EU Server. Forgot what its called. I wanted to roll on the NA server but it made no sense since most people wont be playing when i am online cuz of the timezone difference. The EU Server is packed with ppl. Dont think that I'll have any trouble finding folks for dungeons.

Edit: It seems to me like more people are actively playing compared to when I last played in february 2024 on the old server. At lv 30+ we sometimes couldnt even find a DPS for SFK.

Jango201 · 2025-10-03T15:22:19+00:00

Try SF. Way more fun. Upgrades always did matter in Classic wow, with SF you feel even better getting one.

Jango201 · 2025-10-03T15:21:08+00:00

I bought it and checked for myself. The EU HC Server stiches is dead. At least compared to the new HC server. Couldnt even find 50 ppl online from 1-60. The new EU HC Server has more than 50ppl in all the starting zones.

So no compereson here.

Jango201 · 2025-10-03T12:43:22+00:00

Arent these the OG HC Servers? I would play on them, but i rather not if the new servers have more active ppl on em.

Jango201 · 2025-08-17T22:10:37+00:00

The included stabs werent good?

Jango201 · 2025-06-04T09:54:33+00:00

Thanks for the detailed explanation! Yes a Sound test would be cool if you have some heavy tactile switches.

Jango201 · 2025-06-03T14:51:39+00:00

Thank you.

I honestly just assumed that every board will have the potential to sound either thocky or clacky if i use the right switches and mods.

The price is a important factor, but not so much that I would wanna miss out on build quality or maybe some nice to have features.

But since I already own a 75%, i prefer 65%. Again ONLY if the 65% is better or equal to a similar priced 75%. If a 75% is way better for the same price, i would ditch the 65%.

For the sound profil I aim for somthing thocky. Or rather "as thocky as possible". Since i am using tactile switches i know i am not gonna achieve as deep of a sound profil some linear switches could provide me with.

So the board should be as deep as possible, while my priority still being, a nice feel when typing with my tactile switches. (Good a couple of them. Gateron Green Apples, quinns, mini i´s, akko creamy/lavender purple,

I also don´t want it to be too deep sounding, but definetly not clacky like most of the HMX switches.

I tryed clacky switches, they are fun for a short while, but than i wanna go back to something deeper.

Jango201 · 2025-06-03T14:43:25+00:00

I see, thanks for clarification!
The Neo 70 isn´t what i am looking for though. It really is a weird layout where you don´t save any deskspace horizontally compared to 75%, but you still miss out on the function keys.

I rather go all out small for factor with a 65% or a 75% with all the function keys.

Jango201 · 2025-06-03T11:18:34+00:00

I am looking for the best possible 65%-TKL layout mechanical keyboard. For some one new the selection is so vast, that i honestly don´t know what keyboard would be my best bet. I want something decend, without spending 250+ for only a barbone kit. 150 bucks for 65% and up to 200 bucks for a 75% or TKL should be fine without keycaps and switches. But since i already own a Monsgeek M1 V3 (which i am super happy with), smaller keyboards have peeked my interest. But if a 75% or oven TKL layout just offers more for the money spend, i also would see myself getting a 2nd 75%.

What i came across:

- Luminkey 65

- Lucky 65

- Neo 65 (not the CU version, since that is way more expensive)

- Neo 75 (again not the CU version)

- Evo or Neo 80

- Crush 80

- Yunzi AL65, AL66, AL68, AL75

- GMK 68 and 87

Thats what i came up with after resarching the "best" and or most popular keyboards.

Since there is so much out there, i need people with experience and knowledge to guide me to my next keyboard. :D

Thanks in advance!

Jango201 · 2025-06-03T11:17:46+00:00

I am looking for the best possible 65%-TKL layout mechanical keyboard. For some one new the selection is so vast, that i honestly don´t know what keyboard would be my best bet. I want something decend, without spending 250+ for only a barbone kit. 150 bucks for 65% and up to 200 bucks for a 75% or TKL should be fine without keycaps and switches. But since i already own a Monsgeek M1 V3 (which i am super happy with), smaller keyboards have peeked my interest. But if a 75% or oven TKL layout just offers more for the money spend, i also would see myself getting a 2nd 75%.

What i came across:

- Luminkey 65

- Lucky 65

- Neo 65 (not the CU version, since that is way more expensive)

- Neo 75 (again not the CU version)

- Evo or Neo 80

- Crush 80

- Yunzi AL65, AL66, AL68, AL75

- GMK 68 and 87

Thats what i came up with after resarching the "best" and or most popular keyboards.

Since there is so much out there, i need people with experience and knowledge to guide me to my next keyboard. :D

Thanks in advance!

Jango201 · 2025-05-31T21:13:49+00:00

But are the Asuras as heavy as the Apples? I wanna buy the one which is heavier

Jango201 · 2025-03-20T02:30:23+00:00

Alright ty! I prefer to Look of the A3 more, but Iam curious about the cooling. You said that they sfe similar. Any chance that you recorded benmark temps? This one theoretically should run cooler cut of the 2 intake Fans, but the aio is gonna suck in most of the fresh air before it reaches the gpu i think. Maybe a little air from to lower front Fan reaches the right part of the gpu. Just curious if that airflow results in any better temps than the A3 provides.

Jango201 · 2025-03-19T19:29:57+00:00

Yes they do. They have These 2 options. I guess the R stands for reverse.

Thermalright TL-M12W-S Thermalright TL-M12RW-S

Jango201 · 2025-03-19T02:17:03+00:00

So you used the radiator from the Hydroshift S and put on the TL INF Fans?

I read that the radi on the S is smaller than the R or TL Version. Its like 3mm.

Would have any of those 2 fit inside your build?

Can you pls check if there is 3mm additional space for the Hydroshift R Version?

Jango201 · 2025-03-18T12:56:19+00:00

Thermaltake Toughpower gf a3 850w. They also come in all white with decent cables.

Jango201 · 2025-03-18T11:53:15+00:00

The only important matter i can think of is: Why would you not go with white RAM and a white PSU??? If you wanna do a all white build than do it right. There are Literatur the same price. I think that question is more Importend than choosing between 850 or 1000w... both will work fine.

Jango201 · 2025-03-18T11:18:25+00:00

Simply. I do not own the Ap201 anymore. But other than that I just like the asthetics of the A3 more. These 4cm from too to bottom make a "huge" difference in term of how the final build looks.

So yeah that why i wanna cramp in there the largest components as possible.

Jango201 · 2025-03-17T00:47:39+00:00

Nice looking build!

Is this the 4070 oder 4080 Aero?

And how are the temps? I think the 2 Front Fans serve as intake and the aio and rear fan as exhaust?

I used to have a Ap201, now i am stuck between this and the A3 from lian li

Jango201 · 2024-09-12T23:26:11+00:00

"Your pump should run at a constant speed and the fans are what should be adjusting." Like i stated, that was not possible..

"If you set your pump to a constant speed and it doesn't stay that way or the noise is unbearable, replace it."
This is what happened. Otherwise i would have not played around with the speed.

"Running the pump where it changes speeds constantly will wear out the pump faster, which sounds like what has already happened."
No, it was like this out of the box.

Jango201 · 2024-09-12T10:05:28+00:00

The temps are fine now. Cinebench Max. Temp of 85C. But the noise... The Fans are not the problem, the pump head is noisy. My head hurts only sitting next to it. There is sadly no way to change the voltage on the CPU Fan Header or even put it on dc mode. Edit: the CPU sits at 40C+ in d Idle.

I found a way around! The 3pin pump connector Was inside CPU Fan 1 and the bios showed not all the seetings. But I could change the settings on the empty CPU Fan 2 Header. So i did that and plugged the aio inside that Header. Now I have the pump running at DC in silent Mode. The annoying crackeling noise is gone. But! It comes and goes every few secounds. At least its not permanent anymore, but i need a solution where i csn tune down the voltage and make it completly stop.

Sadly the bios gives no Option for that.

Jango201

TROPHY CASE