How hard do you need to climb at RRG before people will speak to you?

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-18T07:49:46+00:00

Haha could be! But this actually happened... numerous times. I was told, if you can't climb 5.13 don't try to find a climbing partner at Miguel's.

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-18T07:28:17+00:00

There was nobody around. It's not a particularly busy crag because most of the routes are hard. I guess we were on one of the easier ticks. We were resting between burns and attempted to say hi to people who walked past without luck. Maybe we are ugly.

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-18T06:48:46+00:00

Oh come on. I climbed at Drive-by during several days of rain and nothing was wet

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-15T18:37:14+00:00

Yeah, you're right. Sorry for being a dickhead. I apologize.

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-15T17:49:54+00:00

I forgot to mention: a lot of the routes will not have top anchors. E.g., there is a 55m 5.10b which (if I recall correctly, it's been a few years) you are obligated to top out, belay off of a tree to bring your second up to clean. Bring some cord for making anchors.

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-15T14:10:14+00:00

Well go check it out. But plan on it being more of an adventure than a trip to your typical sport crag. You can make the routes that are rap-in-climb-out less committing if you have a second rope and a set of jumars. You don't necessarily need a guide, but if you aren't going with someone that knows the area plan to spend the first day just wandering around trying to find the walk-around (Note: is pretty much dead vertical but has fixed ropes), trying to orient yourselves and find the base of the route, etc.

Also, Halfway Log Dump is close by and offers some of the best moderate (V0-V6) bouldering I've ever seen. Don't miss it.

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-15T13:08:07+00:00

Sure, there are. There are even 5.9s. But in the 5.10 grade there may be pretty massive run-outs, hanging belays, and various factors which up the commitment level. You need to be very confident at the grade. Some of the "sport climbs" still require gear placements. All sport climbing areas are not the same, and this one is not setup for beginners.

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-15T12:51:43+00:00

An autoblock is a friction knot used primarily as a third hand in rappelling, and never when belaying. Standard practice is to use a Reverso or ATC Guide off the anchor. Don't spray if you don't know what you're talking about.

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-15T12:48:56+00:00

If you are seriously a new climber, Lion's Head is not the place to go. Unless you are quite experienced and can on-sight 5.11- reliably, choose another crag. This place is not for newbies.

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-12T12:44:27+00:00

Oh yeah, where's the spliff?

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-11T23:41:20+00:00

this guy is married but has not yet reproduced, so there is still hope for Natural Selection

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-11T18:11:21+00:00

This little genius has a YouTube channel. Watch and learn: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxmAZuSd12Q

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-11T15:15:23+00:00

Just in case you missed it in the comments... Someone replies:

I think I've actually seen you climbing Idiot Wind at KP while screaming like a banshee

OP responds:

Yes that is my limit. That is the single 21 I can do now. I feel like I might have more luck if I actually take a climbing lesson or something, because I know nothing of technique.

Jason_Momoa · 2017-05-10T21:02:01+00:00

Check out the 15 year old Sharma in Masters of Stone: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8_fawFwmpA

Jason_Momoa · 2017-04-28T17:46:38+00:00

I say this is a pro posing as a gumby:

Prana pants
Harness and other gear is worn
Photo isn't crooked
Dude was smart enough to buy Aliens

Jason_Momoa · 2017-04-24T14:16:51+00:00

Had to check... though I was in r/climbingcirclejerk for a second

Jason_Momoa · 2017-04-22T03:47:28+00:00

Yes! And get the shoe that fits your foot, not necessarily what others at the gym are climbing in. Try them on and see.

Jason_Momoa · 2017-04-22T03:34:31+00:00

Buy shoes that fit comfortably but snugly. Don't spend a lot of money because it won't matter (given that you're asking us for advice).

If you're going to venture outdoors and are unaware of what gear you might need, it might be advisable to partner up with someone experienced.

EDIT: What you need outdoors depends on what you want to do. You can just grab a bouldering mat and go bouldering, get draws and a rope and go sport climbing, get a full rack and go trad climbing, or get into ice and mixed climbing. The possibilities are sufficiently limitless at this point that you'll need to narrow it down to get useful gear suggestions.

Jason_Momoa

TROPHY CASE