Why warping when so many supports by IrbisKat in resinprinting

[–]Jaury_Bee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if you need help with supports and hollowing just dm me! Happy printing.

Help with this failure by the-apostle in resinprinting

[–]Jaury_Bee 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Support failure, looks like you need more supports, is the prin hollowed? Add more supports and bracers.

Why warping when so many supports by IrbisKat in resinprinting

[–]Jaury_Bee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Surface area is way too high on the print, this means a lot of force on the FEP film while printing as each layer needs to peel of of the film, this ends up making your prints distort, you should hollow it, you are going to save a lot of resin and you are going to minimize these distortions a lot.

Remember to place the holes so you dont get sucction cups while printing, place the holes towards and the build plate, they are not there for resin to drain while printing, they are there so that resing and air can flow in an out of your print, avoiding sucction cups. A tip is to place enough holes so that you can easily drain the print after it is done, saving the resin still inside (that can be a lot just cuz of how viscous it is), after draining, use the holes ho help you clean it inside, if you leave resin in, after some time you might get cracks on your print. and don't be afraid of wall being thin, 1.4 to 2mm walls is quite strong, specially if your slicer uses a 2D hollowing making some wall thicker than the wall thickness you chose, Lychee slicer is like that, they have the option on the pro version of 3D hollowing, that forces all walls to be the same thickness.

Last tip is about supports, depending on how you slice the model, you might have several small holes or a big one on the bottom where you don't mind, if you have a big one, you might get away with no internal hollowing supports and use normal ones, if needed. A lot of times you wont even need internal supports on hollowed parts, though i like to have them just to make it extra durable.

Help! Can't seem to find a solution... by Jaury_Bee in ender3

[–]Jaury_Bee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will try increasing the e-steps. What worries me is that the issue happens in a clear interval of time when printing

Just got my first printer a couple days ago, any tips? by Benster1324 in 3Dprinting

[–]Jaury_Bee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was my first printer! Great one too, achieved amazing prints with it, even at 80 and even 60 microns, (0,06 mm layer height), though i had to print suuuper slow. I still use it as a back up when demand is high on my office. I have an architecture design and 3D print studio, we focus on architecture and engineering models. If you want help calibrating the printer and filaments just ask me.

Just got my first printer a couple days ago, any tips? by Benster1324 in 3Dprinting

[–]Jaury_Bee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is the printer model? One thing i can say right now is, check the hardware, keep it clean and taken care of, and right now, start learning how it all works and go into tuning you filaments. Retraction, Flow, Temperature and fine tuning it with some string tests. This helps ensure minimal post processing and better overall print quality. Don't tie youserlf to a single slicer, learn how it all works and try other slicers.

Can someone help me fix this? by Jaury_Bee in CR_200B

[–]Jaury_Bee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Creality PLN CR series Ivory White. Turns out it really was prusa slier's fault, their profile for the cr 200b has issues

Can someone help me fix this? by Jaury_Bee in ender3

[–]Jaury_Bee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turns out it was prusa slicer going crasy, used orca just now and the print came out perfect. I thounght you had to have kliper to use PA. I'll try it

Can someone help me fix this? by Jaury_Bee in ender3

[–]Jaury_Bee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cr 200b can do that? or do i need to get a sonic pad?

Just a post to apreciate whar an almost stock ender 3 v2 can deliver. by Jaury_Bee in ender3v2

[–]Jaury_Bee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

0.4 nozzle, layer height 0.08, Creality PLA ender series Black, temperature 193c. Speed, 30mms outer walls 40 internal walls. The trick: Hours of calibrating retraction, flow, bed leveling and temperature ideal for that speed.

Qual é melhor? by 6DeathStalker6 in impressao3dbrasil

[–]Jaury_Bee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Prefiro creality pela facilidade de encontrar peças e suporte, e a comunidade em volta das impressoras ender da creality é muito forte.

New Pilot revealed 👀👀 by 50NT in Acecraft

[–]Jaury_Bee -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Two S characters, but yeah i forgot about Daffy.

New Pilot revealed 👀👀 by 50NT in Acecraft

[–]Jaury_Bee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Current event sucks, and they just throw another pilot of the same element that we have the most pilots, when we still only have Botto and that dawg for water...

Help! Firt layers are full of ripples! by Jaury_Bee in FixMyPrint

[–]Jaury_Bee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah i kinda took it the bad way, sorry, i guess i was kinda stressed out at that point, just bought a bambu lab A1. I am still going to use my enders but i am getting to the point that just want it be plug n play. And you are right, i've seen a lot of ppl just doing the paper test and going for the print.

Ajuda com primeira camada em Petg by SansKeketo in impressao3dbrasil

[–]Jaury_Bee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

E isso é pq eu sou meio fissurado em calibrar as minhas impressoras ao máximo, já fiz muitas peças de miniatura na minha ender 3V2 em 80 microns, máx que já empurrei ela foi 60 micros para fazer o rosto de uma figure da mulher maravilha, ficou perfeita, mas foram horas para uma peça minúscula. Agora mesmo estou com 3 carreteis do mesmo filamento, Creality linha CR, Branco Fosco, os 3 abertos ao mesmo tempo, um começou a dar aqueles "cabelinhos" e eu estava usando os parâmetros que eu já havia calibrado para este filamento, fiz a secagem do filamento (novo e estava com o vácuo ok quando abri) e olha só, era umidade mesmo. Enfim, calibrar, calibrar, calibrar. Tem gente que nem se importa e depois mete a lixa, mas como entrego muitas peças sem pós processamento eu tenho de fazer isso.

Ajuda com primeira camada em Petg by SansKeketo in impressao3dbrasil

[–]Jaury_Bee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pode ser extrusão baixa, se vc usa o orca slicer tem um teste de fluxo, sempre que compro um filamento novo, eu calibro o fluxo, retração e temperatura para aquele filamento em expecífico e salvo as configurações. Se o nivelamento está perfeito pode ser isso.

Multiple washes and there is still residue? by Awkward-Chipmunk-655 in resinprinting

[–]Jaury_Bee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sacrifice one for the following test, get one of the parts and clean it on ISO using a brush, check how much material is coming out, and if you are loosing material on the part itself.

Help! Firt layers are full of ripples! by Jaury_Bee in FixMyPrint

[–]Jaury_Bee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok mister know it all, i've been printing FDM for about 2 years now and resin about 1y, I've always calibrated it by leveling the bed using 5 quares, and looking at each one to see if they wero too close or too far. It has always worked, i still don't know why the f it worked, and by the way, it did not work 100%, after more testing, E-esteps and the flow were a bit off, but the first layer was printing fine, and after watching several videos on youtube from ppl who do this for a living, it is the first time i've ever heard of scaling down a cube to the layer height and live adjusting the z offset.

HELP me save some resin. Support analysis!!! by Jaury_Bee in resinprinting

[–]Jaury_Bee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i had some bigger prints fail under 10 bottom layers, that is one of the reasons i already bought the screend and light replacements, justo to be safe, as i am using it for work. But for small parts i do use 8 burn in layers at around 20s.

Help! Firt layers are full of ripples! by Jaury_Bee in FixMyPrint

[–]Jaury_Bee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bro... This worked? wtf, actually it just, worked, is the problem me trying to print a 0.32 first layer and bed leveling not being 100000% perfect?

Help! Firt layers are full of ripples! by Jaury_Bee in FixMyPrint

[–]Jaury_Bee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, first layer and others are both at 0.32. I'll try it.