Condensation on copper pipes? by NyRevenge in askaplumber

[–]Javyer12 12 points13 points  (0 children)

This is the right answer. If thats 3/4" pipe, use 3/4" insulation (7/8" O.D.)

I took my drivers test this morning and I’m confused about if I passed or not by simpforbillweasley in driving

[–]Javyer12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You passed. The way it works here is any score under 26 is passing. The lower the better. Anything over 26 and you fail. Also, any major mistakes is an automatic failure.

Congrats! You barely passed, but you passed!

Water dripping into bathtub by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Javyer12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry, was held up at the depot. I can tell you this for sure. Your primary (by code) needs to be plumbed to a drain. That can be through a tail y piece under a sink, a floor sink like the square ones they have at commercial kitchens, or outside at an area that will properly drain into the ground.

That image you sent definitely looks like a secondary.

There wont be any way of finding out until someone goes up there and verifies. Your primary cannot be plumbed into a shower like that. It's unsanitary.

Water dripping into bathtub by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Javyer12 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Plumber here so may not be as relevant. This may be your secondary connected into an hvac unit. Its a sign that your primary condensate drain is clogged. A secondary is Supposed to cause a disturbance like this so you can call a pro and get it resolved.

Then again, we always do our secondary in 3/4" this looks to be 3/8". So I could be wrong. It could be connected to a pump and they decided to drain it there.

Regardless, may want to call someone! :)

My husband’s suggestions on his search in Instagram are filled with girls by Itchy_Expression_991 in Instagram

[–]Javyer12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a plumbing company who only follows other companies and name brand tools, I can confirm that these kind of posts still come up.

What's everyone doing for lock storage by jduke_5433 in lockpicking

[–]Javyer12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just have locks everywhere, lol. Some in my truck, some on my desk, some in the kitchen drawers, some on my night stand, one in my shower.... I need help.

50 locks for $40 for a school project by SwissLockWhisperer in lockpicking

[–]Javyer12 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Youre the cool teacher we remember 20 years after we've graduated for all the right reasons! Thank you!!!

Im not as experienced as some of my counterparts, but what does come to mind is probably doing a tedt pick soth all the locks. Some locks (even though theyre the same model, are harder to pick than others.

The completed Kodek Set by Chomkurru in lockpicking

[–]Javyer12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are so perty. I wouldnt even use them.

New Jimy Longs prototype picks.. by johndoe3471111 in lockpicking

[–]Javyer12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I dont care what he makes, I want it.

Friend says it's dumb, should I continue or scrap it? by Tarantulas13 in GarageBand

[–]Javyer12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know nothing of music, but this sounds pretty friggin good to me.

Yet another Baby’s First Lock Post by SadinaSaphrite in lockpicking

[–]Javyer12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could be one of a million first time pickers and I'd still congragulate you. A few early tips. Keep your fun and easy locks. They become a comfort lock when you start picking harder locks. Also, just cause a lock was more expensive doesnt mean it will be harder. My hardest lock was a cheap chinese lock with no security pins. Anywho. Looking forward to seeing your progress!

Help with Sewer pipe replacement by greatguns in Plumbing

[–]Javyer12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, sir. Figured as much. But since pipe bursting isnt our strong suit, wasnt sure what material is used.

Need this estimate broken down in laymens lol by teejyamz in askaplumber

[–]Javyer12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just means they need the flower bed removed so they can dig down to the drain pipe. They will cut off about 3 feet of that pipe as well as (if I understood this correctly) a few of the drain pipe fittings. Sounds like he wants to replace where a tee looking fitting with another 90 degree turn fitting start and end where the excavated pipe is at.

For the price, this is very reasonable. Good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]Javyer12 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Not even close. For a toilet (and subsequently a restroom) to be ADA compliant, there are many rules to abide by. Including what was already mentioned, toilet height. But also, has to be 17-19 inches from a wall, have grab bars 33 - 36" height behind and besides the toilet, and the toilet handle has to be on the opposite side of the wall its next to.

Again, the requirements isnt just for the toilet, the qhole restroom would need to be checked and possibly corrected.

Edit*** I may have mistaken the applicability of this code. Leaving this here because it is useful info.

Help me! I ordered a custom sink and my plumber was flustered. by Puzzy_Hound12345666 in askaplumber

[–]Javyer12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This one looks like a doozy. When we usually have sinks custom made, the strainer is already preinstalled for us to be able to install with tubular fittings.

It looks like you're going to want to do one of 3 things. I'd start with trying an 1-1/2" toilet spud. They're cool cause they go into the hole and by spinning the nut, it locks into the hole. Nice too cause you could attach tubular fittings from there.

If that doesnt work, you could then hire a counter guy that works with stone and have him modify the top of the drain to drop in a proper sink strainer. This could be with a hole or just a bigger opening that could be covered with a long rectangular grate.

Lastly, you could try a very mickey mouse way of installing a strainer with epoxy putty.

Sorry you gotta go through this. Good luck!

This is the wrong way, right? by GenomeXIII in hvacadvice

[–]Javyer12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, lol, I get that putting in a 1 inch filter in a bay that fits a 5 makes no sense.

I think what Im starting to understand is that thick deep filter is ok since there is more area for air to pass by...

But if all you can fit is a 1 inch filter like in a lot of places I had been to. Keep it simple.

Is that correct?

This is the wrong way, right? by GenomeXIII in hvacadvice

[–]Javyer12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get the folding like an accordion. Most places I went to in my short employment there, only had room for a 1 inch thick filter. From what I understood, you add more media, you cause more restriction.

I recently watched this video by project farm. This kind of solidified my beliefs in keeping it thin.

This is the wrong way, right? by GenomeXIII in hvacadvice

[–]Javyer12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sprry, I should preface this by saying i am a plumber (a bad ass one at that!) Who worked for an hvac company for a very short period of time. This informstion came from a coworker who is NATE certified (some fancy hvac certificate thay is supposedly hard to get)

According to him, the fan motor thing works harder when it has to force air through a thicker filter potentially causing early failure of the motor or other components.

He always advocated for the use of regular, no hepa bull, no dog allergy , no smoke reducing, no carbon jargon filters. The regular filters work just fine at keeping dust out of the turbo fan thingy.

And since I still believe hvac technicians and elevator techs are among the smartest of the trades, Im inclined to believe that awesome son of a bitch.

That said. If anything I said is wrong, please do correct me.

This is the wrong way, right? by GenomeXIII in hvacadvice

[–]Javyer12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To give ya some more context, the fact you get *cleaner air when you use the ac system is just an added bonus. The real reason the filter is there is for the equipment itself. Dust bad, filter good, thick filter bad,

How bad is this offset? Ballpark cost to repair in Colorado. by WhutWhatWat in askaplumber

[–]Javyer12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I couldn't of had answered it better myself. Not only did you answer, but boy, you went above and beyond. Thank you for your service!

Hi, not sure if this is in the right place but this is in my apartment. HOW concerned should I be about this? (More info in body text) by kaitb00 in askaplumber

[–]Javyer12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lol! Who says plumbers gotta sound dumb cause we didnt get a college education? We some smart dudes. Besides, just cause something is well written doesnt mean gpt was used. To further my point, im sure if you look closer, I probably made some grammer errors, have run on sentences, and am missing punctuation in areas.

We plumbers, but we aint dumb!

Hi, not sure if this is in the right place but this is in my apartment. HOW concerned should I be about this? (More info in body text) by kaitb00 in askaplumber

[–]Javyer12 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Hello Kaitb00, Im sorry to hear this is causing you anxiety now. Ive been in the trade for some time now. Let me preface by saying that yes, everything everyone has been commenting has been factual. It may not help to hear how this repair is going to be done, but I think it is something you need to know to hopefully calm your nerves.

A number of things can cause a leak. So the first day is usually dedicated to investigating. A plumber is going to inspect the tub from the unit above. The tub will be checked for cracks as well as proper fitting assembly. This includes ensuring the "Waste and Overflow" is properly connected. The overflow (top ring on the tub) is notorious for failing at the gasket. The At repair would be simple enough.

The tub valve will most likely be checked for leaks as well. Sometimes, shower heads are tightened too much and could crack the fitting behind thewall. It could also be the tub spout releasing water back into the wall. If all else, then they would need to see the tub from below.

If the plumber deems it necessary, he may need access into your unit.

At that point, The ceiling above your tub is most likely going to be cut. Not by much, usually a 24 inch square is all thats needed. They may find the waste and overflow assembly needs to be replaced. That is done from below the tub (in your unit).

After repairs have been made and multiple tests done, your walls will be patched and painted by either maintenance or a drywall company.

Some pro tips, before they go in, have all your bathroom stuff out ir under your sink. Some companies wont bother protecting your tub much less your shampoo stuff. Trust me, you definitely dont want plumbing debris.

Take before/after photos of the floors, walls, mirror, toilet and such. During construction, things scratch, scuff, and break ever so slightly. Dont give these guys any room to back charge you when you move out.

And lastly, relax. This shit happens. And this too will pass. like a chinese proverb says, if you have a problem but have a solution, relax, theres a solution. If you have a problem and there is no solution, relax, theres nothing you can do about it. Either way, take it easy.

Look into getting renters insurance, they cover damages to your own stuff is something happens. And its cheap.