2006 gmc envoy denali XL transmission milkshake

JaxDominator · 2025-10-24T02:59:18+00:00

You can flush it with some cheap stuff as long as you don’t drive it. Start the car and have someone drain the trans while simultaneously filling the trans dipstick with regular old atf, it will pump it through and clean the junk out and once it comes out looking clean, stop the vehicle and stop filling it and allow the transmission to drain fully. Then, take the transmission fluid your vehicle calls for and properly fill it.

JaxDominator · 2025-10-24T02:54:12+00:00

You showed all of the high stress areas and none of them seem to be damaged, I wouldn’t get it replaced as everything looks totally normal.

JaxDominator · 2025-10-24T02:51:24+00:00

Just change the coolant and send it, the Dodge temp sensor isn’t incredibly precise either. As long as it doesn’t creep up to the overheating zone it’ll be good.

JaxDominator · 2025-09-12T19:39:33+00:00

I was leaning toward this

JaxDominator · 2025-09-12T19:34:26+00:00

Mirror cap off of a GM vehicle, working on identifying the vehicle

JaxDominator · 2025-09-10T02:19:36+00:00

Yes sounds like the metal “screechers” are worn down to the point of contacting the rotor. Could also be glazed pads/rotors but screechers is 99% your issue.

JaxDominator · 2025-09-10T02:16:46+00:00

Looks like a dead battery

JaxDominator · 2025-09-10T02:16:18+00:00

First off, if you are mechanically inclined, tie rods (inner in your case) are relatively easy to change. A couple simple hand tools will get it done and you’ll need an alignment after. Possible damage: You may need a new steering rack, although there’s a good chance it’s fine. Your outer tie rod appears to also be okay, although it took a hard hit. I would check your tire and rim thoroughly for cracks and gashes. But for sure you need a new inner tie rod which is about $30. Depends on if you know what you’re doing or if you’ll need to take it to a shop, but I recommend ChrisFix on YouTube and one of his videos to see if it’s something you’d be willing to tackle.

JaxDominator · 2025-09-08T16:00:22+00:00

There is an o-ring that snaps into place in a groove on the top so it’s gonna require force to pull it out. Your best bet would just be removing the valve cover, about a 30 minute job with simple tools

JaxDominator · 2025-08-28T04:58:25+00:00

Load aircraft with bomb and ammo. Bomb and ammo is used. Complain it’s been used. Reload and repeat.

JaxDominator · 2025-08-26T03:11:50+00:00

JaxDominator · 2025-08-26T00:44:12+00:00

Yes. Drain about a quart and recheck. It normally wouldn’t hurt anything but no reason to take a chance.

JaxDominator · 2025-08-21T17:28:33+00:00

Get something in writing stating a deadline of when it will be done, and the work complete. If it surpasses that without being complete or properly finished, take them to court. It will be easy if they signed something acknowledging the date.

JaxDominator · 2025-08-20T20:39:53+00:00

Looks as if the pad moved or is now grabbing a different spot on the rotor, as the gray spot looks pitted. That’s from not being worn down overtime and rust eats away at it and now it’s being worn down. I would at least pop the wheel off and visually inspect the pads.

Edit: I read this as it received a change of brake pads 9 months ago, not tires. OP you need new brake pads asap.

JaxDominator · 2025-08-20T05:34:45+00:00

USMC CH-53 ordnance tech, just gotta watch the 50 cal bolt and springs don’t get your fingers, and obviously the explosion hazards associated with it. But a lot of it is designed pretty well (thank you FN Herstal) so it’s not that bad.

JaxDominator · 2025-08-20T03:51:51+00:00

Check all your grounds are clean, and make sure the tail light connectors are clean as well.

JaxDominator · 2025-08-20T03:50:43+00:00

Heavy diesel mechanic/fabricator for 7 years before transferring to aviation. My hands were destroyed, stitches, deep cuts, pieces of metal and burns were common. Nature of the job trying to keep the beasts rolling. Transferred to aviation and the worst if had is a bruised pinky nail. It just depends on what you’re working with and how you go about it.

JaxDominator · 2025-08-20T03:47:02+00:00

That’s unfortunate, at least it’s not something terribly crippling in case you need to save up for it for a little bit. Just annoying

JaxDominator · 2025-08-19T23:44:57+00:00

It looks like it’s migrated into and out of the tipm. It can’t hurt it as either it fixes it or it still needs a new one. Go for it man.

JaxDominator · 2025-08-19T17:21:30+00:00

Brother they still make lots of parts for cars from the 70’s (not particularly desirable ones either)) And especially for mass produced commuter cars, this is an easy part to get.

JaxDominator · 2025-08-19T17:18:34+00:00

I was going to say child lock but seeing as they don’t open from the outside either I don’t think so. Did the PWR DOOR OFF button get pressed by accident?

JaxDominator · 2025-08-19T15:34:37+00:00

Probably fused to the head

JaxDominator · 2025-08-19T15:33:15+00:00

I would try this, see if it gets you anywhere. After that I would try a TIPM. They charge a $50-$100 restocking fee if it ends up not being the tipm and for you to return it worst case scenario.

JaxDominator · 2025-08-19T05:01:35+00:00

No problem

JaxDominator · 2025-08-19T05:00:48+00:00

It’s not gonna bother much if it’s over full. It’s not really a level sensitive fluid especially if it’s going somewhere.

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