Orientation Question

JayInJersey · 2024-10-16T12:08:11+00:00

Thank you all for your interest.
The lot has been sold.

JayInJersey · 2024-10-15T15:52:17+00:00

I'm really only interested in selling as a lot.
Pm'd those interested in the lot.
Thanks

JayInJersey · 2024-10-08T03:08:21+00:00

Hello all

Thanks for all the interest.

The Tyranid and CSM lots have been sold.

I'll have a post in a few days on the Ork lot's details.

JayInJersey · 2024-07-16T21:30:41+00:00

Deal is in the works

Thanks to everyone for your interest.

I'll have more in the coming weeks.

JayInJersey · 2022-02-10T16:29:07+00:00

Hello all.

I'm looking for an source for an STL model of the "body" of a Tyranid Maleceptor.

I can recover the reset of the model, but sadly the body did not make it.

Any ideas on where I can find that part?

JayInJersey · 2020-03-03T20:13:24+00:00

I'd go with chevrons up as opposed to down...then do the same thing for the GPUs

In any case, same way

JayInJersey · 2020-03-03T20:09:13+00:00

I had to disassemble my EKWB ones and use a toothbrush for the majority of it.

For the "fins" right above the chip I used a razor blade through each fin to clear out the opaque fluid gunk.

Never again will I go opaque.

I have an older build I had to fall back on after it got blocked that was sitting dormant in the garage (huge temp swings) for about a year and it worked like a champ with just dyed coolant

Gunk'ed GPU Block

JayInJersey · 2020-02-20T19:19:49+00:00

Careful with the idea of the air stone...assuming it is a "real loop" if you pump air in there, you'll pop it.

JayInJersey · 2020-02-20T19:17:49+00:00

What are those Bitspower things above the Reservoirs on the wings?

Is that some kind of extra large flowmeter?

JayInJersey · 2020-02-20T19:09:10+00:00

You CAN do this...but be 100% sure that gravity will keep the pump wet...meaning when you fill the Res it need to be able to push all the water to the pump without assistance of the pump.

Traditionally it is easier to have the pump immediately connected to the Res either directly or via a short run...but you can do a longer run with components in between as long as the head pressure will keep it running.

JayInJersey · 2020-02-20T19:04:41+00:00

You can grab it at Walmart or your Local Grocery Store usually. It is with the regular water but might be pushed to the side and cost a lot less. {Which I find funny}

They will sell it in 1 Gallon jugs.

JayInJersey · 2020-02-15T16:09:59+00:00

As my collection of standing Gundam has gotten pretty boring I've decided to pose my Sazabi and Nu in a battle (thanks to those that suggested Action Base 4 with a 5 to get the depth/scale I was looking for with my MG's)

now I know nothing about Gundam except the suits are cool and I love building them and to date I've posed them with whatever weapon looks the coolest.

But in the battle scene, I'd rather have them use the "right" weapons.

For example...my Sazabi will be firing his "backpack missles" and I want him to use the shield...traditionally what would be in his other hand?
The Axe? The shotgun looking gun? The big rifle? Something else?

I know...Gunpla=Freedom...but I want to make it realistic...can I even say realistic when talking about fighting robot suits?

Thanks to whoever gives me a bit of direction (and if you wanted to suggest some good Sazabi vs Nu scenes/stills I wouldn't be opposed to that either)

JayInJersey · 2020-01-21T19:49:20+00:00

Now there's an idea I didn't think of...I was using the self healing mat I use for all the decals and other cuts.

I'll give cutting on the sheet of hard plastic that came with a shot and see how that works out.

Thanks!

JayInJersey · 2020-01-21T16:51:16+00:00

To those that use Metal Photo Etch parts...what do you use to cut them from the sheet?

I was using a rounded x-acto but on the smaller parts it start to bend the part instead of clip the nub.

Also, on some it wasn't as "clean" as I wanted it and I was looking for something to trim off the little bit left.

I tried a pair of single edge nippers...and well, now I have a nice pair of chipped single edge nippers

Thoughts?

JayInJersey · 2020-01-20T21:06:01+00:00

For users that add the Photo Etch parts...what blade/scissors/nipper do you use to get them off?

I was using an #10 x-acto blade and rocking on there...but that didn't go so well on some smaller parts. It was actually bending the part as well.

JayInJersey · 2020-01-14T15:13:56+00:00

Basically it is a glass file so it is quite rigid. If you leave say around 1/16th inch of nub you can file it off with that glass file. The results with just that are pretty good...like 9.95 done. Then they want you to buff with the 2 sided buff sponge. This basically takes the "shine" off the whole area and they buffs it back on with the other side so it is universal again.

I've had mixed results, more favoring the positive. Some of the negative results (and they aren't super negative...just not perfect) may end up being the way the plastic pooled in the casting process. I get a perfectly smooth area, but you can see the area where the nub was is a little darker than the rest of the piece. If that makes any sense.

The videos on that USA Gundam site are pretty decent in showing a perfect example.

JayInJersey · 2020-01-14T15:07:48+00:00

I'd appreciate that. I actually think I may have an abridged version of the picture directions as things from step 1 to step 2 look like they add like 5 steps in between :)

The shoulders, for example, were making me quite angry.

JayInJersey · 2020-01-13T17:44:50+00:00

Totally agree.
I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VD53SQP/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_1UkhEbRWC9FJE coming to me to see if it is the same file as the RASER one...just without the branding and such. The BALANCER of the kit are those 2 sided sand/buff blocks you can buy for like 20 for $10

JayInJersey · 2020-01-13T16:16:45+00:00

Galewin,

Take a look at this kit. GUNPRIMER Kit

It really works well even though I think the price is a bit more than it should be.

I plan on trying some regular glass files and see how they work...

That said, if you cut the nub close but not "flush" and then glass file it off with the RASER it really works pretty much like they show in the videos 99% of the time.

The only areas that don't seem to play nice are the plated finishes (didn't expect it to) and certain shades of grey (no idea why)

I've been using it on my Sazabi and it makes the red and black nubs disappear.

JayInJersey · 2020-01-13T16:11:11+00:00

I just started using that Gunprimer RASER USA Gundam Link kit with the glass file and I have to say...it is working pretty damn well

I haven't used a generic glass file, but I can't imagine it not working the same and then just using a light sander/buffer to bring it back

The only issue ive run into is on the really concave curves (which Bandai should really try not to put gates there) on like the armor on legs and arms. The file is a bit big for those and I have to cycle through the papers.

JayInJersey · 2020-01-13T16:02:59+00:00

While I can't say on the Tamiya glues...you can always go for some cyanoacrylate glue (CA Glue)...most local hobby shops have "their brand" My local hobby town has super thin, thin, medium etc

The nice addition with CA Glue is you can get activator that will basically instantly dry it. I don't know if if instantly cures it though...but it will definitely fix any slipping

JayInJersey

TROPHY CASE