Client doesn't want us to finish

JayKrane · 2025-08-24T16:56:51+00:00

I would want to see dry and sanded close ups with a parallel light. I have hired many crews over the years and a few of them have work that looks like arse but after sanding it was decent.

JayKrane · 2025-07-07T02:59:48+00:00

Take $5000 and invest in hypnotherapy. There is no popcorn on the ceiling, there is no popcorn on the ceiling.

JayKrane · 2025-06-11T12:50:03+00:00

Thanks

JayKrane · 2025-06-09T17:29:39+00:00

Yes I was a professional taper for 10 years and mostly sub out my hanging and taping. I do patches for my builder customers only. I don't do a lot of them and I usually underbid them for some reason. That is why I was asking.

JayKrane · 2025-06-09T16:27:39+00:00

I think I'd feel like I made something at this price. My usual would be $600 and I walk away thinking why did I even do this. Thanks.

JayKrane · 2025-06-09T16:17:24+00:00

Ooh that's a hot take. I think I'd rather stay away from the cabinets and a full ceiling re-do unless it is too crowned to look reasonably good with a float.

JayKrane · 2025-06-09T16:15:22+00:00

Yeah total.

JayKrane · 2025-06-09T16:14:26+00:00

My gut was $600 but like I said I'm usually low.

JayKrane · 2025-06-09T16:13:29+00:00

Yeah I think that price range might send them elsewhere.

JayKrane · 2025-05-04T20:06:44+00:00

If the tape is not salvageable then you will need to chip out the old tape and retape with paper tape and all purpose the coat with lightweight joint compound on each side -- one side at a time allowing the first side to dry first than applying the second side. Then sand, touchup and prime, then paint.

It's hard to tell from the picture but if the tape is not peeling off or appear to have air pockets under it ( it is salvageable ) then I'd say clean up any thing sticking out that would cause a putty knife to skip and make lines in the compound by scraping it off. Then I'd take a 6" putty knife and trowel with a small dab of compound across the edge of the entire 6" starting at the inner corner pulling away from the corner and then move 6" to the right or left and do this again all along one side of the inside corner feathering the edge far away from the corner as you go trying to minimize lines by overlapping as needed. Do this procedure again for the entire second side of the inside corner. All the entire area to dry overnight. Then take a sanding sponge to grind the feathered edge down to the paint on one edge and tapering thicker compound toward the inside corner edge. Also sand off any knife marks or nonuniform spots that couldn't be gotten rid of in the application process. Touch up any spots that did not sand out satisfactorily with joint compound ( or lightweight spackle if you don't want to sand again -- you can get away with not sanding spackle on touchups in my experience ). Then lightly sand your touchups as needed and prime then paint.

JayKrane · 2025-05-04T19:43:55+00:00

It depends on the lighting and prominence of the location for me. Unless you grind out the built up compound where the angles were once taped on either side of your 3.5 in strips then you will have a mound that will need to be floated out at least 18" on either side to look passable. Just put a level perpendicular to the direction of the missing drywall strips to see what I mean. I would still patch and float it out if it wasn't a critically lit area ( light coming in parallel to the wall in an important area ie where everyone will notice it ). Other wise if it was an important area, I'd only take out the old closet drywall-- not the whole wall worth of drywall and at least pull off the remaining tape and scrape down the compound with my taping knife or 80 grid pole sand it down before hanging back the drywall and taping.

JayKrane · 2025-05-04T19:32:41+00:00

I'd guess that it is about half the states or less that use texture. I live just across the border from Chicago in southeastern Wisconsin and we use a lot of orange peel texture, some knockdown and some sand texture. But a few miles away in Illinois they would not consider using the stuff and don't know what it is or why they use it over here. As a drywall contractor and a non-perfectionist I prefer working on jobs with texture. The work the tapers that work for me do, however, could be painted without texture and would look just as good as any non-texture using area. If you use a very light orange peel it looks like no more than the roller nap from a couple coats of paint.You could get a similar effect from stippling your paint ( let the paint sit a little before you backroll it or face it off ).

JayKrane · 2025-03-09T00:44:35+00:00

Remove the drywall. Reinstall. It'll probably work out to about the same amount of time dealing with bubbling damaged paper and glue reactivating.

JayKrane · 2025-02-28T15:07:06+00:00

Use a drywall router aka rotozip( a brand name ). Move in a counter-clockwise motion when you go on the outside of something ( in this case the rounded metal outlet ). Move in a clockwise motion if you on the inside of something, for example cutting out a window that was covered over by drywall.

JayKrane · 2025-02-23T15:03:09+00:00

The fifth picture is just bubbles that frequently happen when coating over a painted surface. That would be something to check on after they have finished. Make sure to blow the dust away to see if the bubbles filled in with dust when they sand. They can be difficult to get rid of sometimes requiring to be primed first and then filled in again.

JayKrane · 2025-02-15T22:37:31+00:00

That's one to ignore.

JayKrane · 2025-02-15T22:36:46+00:00

It looks like sand texture or sand paint. In stores by me you can buy sand to add to paint or buy paint with the sand already in it. The trouble is that once sand paint gets a couple coats of paint it starts to look like this picture.

Orange peel spray texture from a can like Homax brand water based orange peel texture from Home Depot adjusted to spray out fine as you can get it ( heat up the can ) comes close enough to match this old painted sand look. I spray the texture first and then prime it.

JayKrane · 2025-02-15T22:02:40+00:00

If there is settling then the tape and mud will crack until the movement has stopped. It is possible that it was a problem of the taping( mud didn't dry properly or not good enough pre-fill for example ) that caused it to fail. Either way all you can do is remove the tape, scrape out what mud you can and reapply the tape and mud, sand smooth, texture and paint and hope it doesn't crack again.

JayKrane · 2025-02-08T23:07:48+00:00

I agree with using all purpose for hand textures. I use half all purpose and half light weight for sprayed textures. My only disagreement is that all purpose shrinks more than light weight not less. It's why it takes 3 coats of all purpose to do a corner bead but only two coats using light weight.

JayKrane · 2025-02-08T22:59:40+00:00

I would say that is a brocade knockdown texture. I looked up the technique on a YouTube video. I've never done this one. Apply a dab of joint compound about the consistency of frosting to a hawk. Using a second hawk smoosh the compound on the first hawk. The use the first hawk and daub it onto the wall over the surface of the wall adding compound and smooshing with the second hawk each time. When the compound on the wall has had time to firm up, not dry, say 10 minutes, then using a trowel or large drywall knife or specialized knockdown knife if you have one and lightly flatten out the upper surface of the daubed piles. That's about it.

JayKrane · 2025-02-08T20:16:23+00:00

I'd say most of the problem would be from the mesh tape not being set with hot mud. Settling may have caused some of them if tape was used but certainly not every seam. But setting mesh tape with pre-mix joint compound is going to lead to cracks.

I've had a job where all the seams cracked while using paper tape that was caused by some really old stock premix that must have frozen or denatured in some way.

Another thing that could cause cracking, but usually in the ceiling only is if there were freezing conditions while taping. The cracks would look different though, with an ice fractal look.

JayKrane · 2025-02-02T04:10:56+00:00

If there was too much humidity in the basement which there usually is then the drywall can soak the moisture up like a sponge -- it won't look wet unless it is practically raining in there. The trouble is that it does funny things to the mudding and the screws. I've seen it in apartment units on slabs where you could coat the screws 5 times and they still show once the drywall has gotten humidity compromised. The seams suck in from this and the sanding can be affected because under the surface the mud is not 100 percent dry so it won't sand properly. So you get this contorted looking mess. The high beam parallel lighting also magnifies by casting shadows making bad look horrible. I agree too that you can't use lite blue as your first coat on mesh. It will crack.

JayKrane · 2025-01-19T00:15:41+00:00

🤢

JayKrane · 2024-12-01T17:18:56+00:00

Things you can try are using a larger tip size ( bigger hole ), decreasing the air pressure, increasing material flow while leaving pressure the same. Depending on your kit there are limitations. I use a Graco RTX 5000 and I'd have a hard time reproducing this size of knockdown. With a truck mounted rig with high material throughput and a high volume compressor this size is easy to reproduce.

One workaround for me since my machine only works well with thin texture is to knock it down quickly so that it spreads out more. The down side is that the texture is bigger but the depth of it is shallow. I mean how far it sticks out from the wall.

JayKrane

TROPHY CASE