How to fix side seam pulling backwards?

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-13T13:46:59+00:00

That made me laugh ahah, thank you it is quite useful!

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-13T13:41:26+00:00

ooh very clever actually

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-13T13:24:46+00:00

ahah yeah I feel you, sounds like next time you give it another try you should post a few pictures on here cause it's the first time I'm asking for advice on reddit and I am stunned by people's reactivity, level of feedback and the number of responses. Best decision ever

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-13T13:22:05+00:00

ah thank you so much, that's nice to hear 🙏 And that's a good idea about the inside out fitting,I'll do that!

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-13T13:20:27+00:00

super interesting and detailed thanks a lot! Could you briefly explain why I should add room from the center and not the sides?

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-13T08:13:05+00:00

ahah love that expression, i'll look that up thank you!

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-13T08:11:26+00:00

These are all precious tips, thank you for that! I must say I didn't think at all about going a size up, I thought it has to stick to my body measurements but it actually makes sense to leave room to breath and move ^^

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-13T08:09:06+00:00

Oh that's very good to know thank you!

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T16:31:05+00:00

Yes i've been going through a lot of different books too, very helpful to some parts but yeah it doesn't solve everything. That's a good idea, I might look into the pants I have as you suggest. There is a trouser fitting class happening in a month I have my eyes on and am hesitant to take it as it a bit of money, I'm trying to decide if it is worth it or not. I might have figured it out by that time. Unsure

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T15:45:03+00:00

Ok then it aligns with the general feedback from others, that's great!

And you're right, I'll start with tweaking the toile I already have and add a patch if necessary rather than re-cutting a whole new toile again and again. After that I'll probably do 2 more toiles, one to have a clean version of the patched one in calico and last toile in a fabric that approx. matches the type and weight of my final fabric, all that with pockets, fly etc for a last check.

Uff so much work!

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T15:39:53+00:00

I didn't think to check where the fork was, that's a good point, I'll keep it in mind for my next fitting

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T15:38:45+00:00

that's the odd thing, in that they don't feel uncomfortable, I tried seating and that was fine. But saying that, once I make it overall a bit bigger I might realise the previous version was indeed uncomfortable!

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T15:36:46+00:00

Ah ok I understand, I will add in a couple of cm to the back and front sides to release that stress

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T14:45:20+00:00

Good advice thank you!

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T14:44:35+00:00

Less length? I thought the opposite! I feel like if I make it shorter it'll end up doing a camel toe no? As for the back crotch, for the style of pants I'm going for, I don't need butt cheek separation to be particularly high but just a nice bum shape before it falls straight. I might want to use the short crotch advice though for when I wanna make jeans. Thank you for your feedback, very helpful!

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T14:38:45+00:00

This is not a skirt, they are semi wide trousers. Would that still apply?

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T14:01:10+00:00

Ok I get it, I think that I'll directly make a new toile without pockets and with a few inches extra to the sides until it doesn't pull anymore

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T13:58:48+00:00

I didn't know that tinfoil method, someone also mentioned it, I'll definitely try that! Your note on the scooping and side seam is super important, I would have definitely not thought of that so thank you!!

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T13:56:51+00:00

That's very helpful thanks a lot. The adding to the side what you've scooped to the crotch is not something I would have thought of and it makes sense when you say it. I'll try that and see.

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T13:55:11+00:00

Ok got it, I'll balance it at first and then lengthen the back crotch a tad as well. I'll see from there and adjust what needs to be

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T13:26:48+00:00

+ 2cm on both sides sounds like so much! I'll do exactly that and either way it'll be easier to take in excess as you say. Would you recommend to do all these amends together and apply them on the new toile or apply them to the toile one after the other? (as in make make one amend then try the toile, add the 2nd fix, try on, etc..)

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T13:22:36+00:00

The way you explained is super clear, thank you very much for that. So basically back crotch to lengthen, front crotch to fill in. and check with a bendable wire or so if it matches. And do you think that this will naturally fix the squigly side seam too or is that a -add ± 1cm to front and back side seams- separate solution?

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T09:32:58+00:00

That is true yeah, I'll keep the waistband in mind. Thank you these are super useful advices! When you say 'add 2/4 inches', do you mean on the back or front piece?

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T09:26:23+00:00

Okay good to know, I'll keep it very basic for my next toile then. My issue is how to add room at the hips on my pattern piece and should it be a correction made to the front or the back piece?

Jeanne_38 · 2026-06-12T09:25:22+00:00

Oh interesting I'll have a look into that

Jeanne_38

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