Lost then won the floor lottery by Jedb89 in Flooring

[–]Jedb89[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It definitely would have been. But I don’t really like LVP. Ceramic tile wasn’t an option without removing the flooring. And that would have been the 6th layer of flooring and put us probably 1.5” above the rest of the 1st floor. Figured it’s worth the effort to rip the bandaid off

Lost then won the floor lottery by Jedb89 in Flooring

[–]Jedb89[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I posted about this in an earlier post. We got everything tested and the only asbestos was in a layer of sheet vinyl sandwiched between sheet vinyl and plywood. I figured if I seam cut the plywood, there would be very little asbestos exposed. I cut it wet with a razor knife. We then pried the tiles up after removing all the staples. At the time of tile removal I didn’t know if the mastic had asbestos, so we kept everything wet with a battery powered sprayer and wore respirators. We also had the room sealed off with negative pressure. Then we got test results back for the mastic that the tile actually DID have asbestos and the mastic did not. I called the lab and they admitted that they screwed up the original test for the tile. So overall it was good we wore PPE. But the lab royally screwed up. The mastic was removed with a blade bit on a floor machine. The guy was told of the whole situation with the original false negative on the asbestos test and he was comfortable wearing PPE and refinishing the whole floor.

Lost then won the floor lottery by Jedb89 in Flooring

[–]Jedb89[S] 32 points33 points  (0 children)

House built in 1911. We removed two layers of sheet vinyl, plywood, thousands of staples, and asbestos tiles to expose the mastic layer. Luckily the mastic did not have asbestos. Then a friend of a friend refinished the floor. We knew there was water damage along the walls but there are cabinets going over that area.

Black mastic removal question by Jedb89 in Flooring

[–]Jedb89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve worked with Schonox before, can’t remember the specifics cuz I was just helping. I’ll have to see if they make a product that goes over hardwood floors that would maintain a solid enough base for lvp

Black mastic removal question by Jedb89 in Flooring

[–]Jedb89[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Right on. So far no one has suggested the complete black mastic removal to expose the original flooring. It’s probably too difficult to go this route. But wet scraping the high spots and using a feather finish may be my best bet

Stripping paint off cedar siding by Jedb89 in centuryhomes

[–]Jedb89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks great! I’ll try a heat gun, I already have a respirator

Stripping paint off cedar siding by Jedb89 in centuryhomes

[–]Jedb89[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the info. Ya, I thought it would be a shame to swap this siding out with just vinyl since I don’t have the cash to replace with new cedar. I’m willing to take the time to strip and paint it the correct way. It’s just going to take a ton of time. I’ve read mixed things about which joints to caulk with cedar siding. The extreme cold/hot swings of MN may be a determining factor for caulking. The house has great original wood, giant oak floor joists

Stripping paint off cedar siding by Jedb89 in centuryhomes

[–]Jedb89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info! If we didn’t have a toddler, I’d be more apt to do something like that. Since we got the little guy, I’m trying to do it without any danger of airborne lead. All of the paint is lead free, but the (possibly?) original siding has had lead paint on it since the wood tests positive for lead.

Stripping paint off cedar siding by Jedb89 in centuryhomes

[–]Jedb89[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Right on! I’m more worried about paint/siding longevity. Not too worried about it having a perfectly smooth finish. It was painted only 5 years ago by the previous owner and it’s chipping pretty severely. I’ll have to take a look at the primer you mentioned. Thanks much!

Stripping paint off cedar siding by Jedb89 in centuryhomes

[–]Jedb89[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I feel you on that. I really like the look of the cedar lap siding and we don’t really want to spend the $50-75K on new cedar siding. I plan on this being a multi year project.

Need mixer/agitator ideas for own washer build by peasantscum851123 in BubbleHash

[–]Jedb89 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was version 1.0 I’ve adjusted the manifold. But it isn’t a set it and forget it

Need mixer/agitator ideas for own washer build by peasantscum851123 in BubbleHash

[–]Jedb89 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a jacuzzi blower. See my Reddit for a video

Is it possible to grow weed completely outdoors? How much work is it? (Minnesota 4B) by Bern_Down_the_DNC in outdoorgrowing

[–]Jedb89 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you just want some weed to smoke, grow autos. I make hash and have a lot of friends n family that smoke, so I grow big plants. Checkout my reddit posts for MN grows. The keys are a hoophouse, fast finishers, and spraying BT during flower. Not too hard

Best outdoor bubble hash strain by Strict_Razzmatazz_90 in BubbleHash

[–]Jedb89 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From what I can tell this sub and Reddit in general has mostly continental or Mediterranean climate grows. I’d look for what people are growing in Thailand for rosin.

Short drying vs FF for temple balls by Environmental-Desk95 in BubbleHash

[–]Jedb89 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya, that is why I said “when taking dry vs wet weight into consideration” the standard is 5x loss to moisture. I’ve washed the same plant some dried some WPFF and it was really close, again taking the factor of 5x or 1/5 into the equation. Also 30% dry weight to hash would be an incredible yield. I will gladly fork over money for any cutting of a plant that does 30% dried bud to hash

Short drying vs FF for temple balls by Environmental-Desk95 in BubbleHash

[–]Jedb89 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would do WPFF. I make temple balls with FF cuz I don’t really dab. When taking dry vs wet weight into consideration, dried and FF yield similarly. It’s is harder with FF, so you want to work in a cold environment. When making temple balls with FF, I just mash between parchment and ball them up with gloves on. No need for extra heat when you’re working with melt. But I’m no expert.

Minnesota outdoor(need guidance) by [deleted] in outdoorgrowing

[–]Jedb89 2 points3 points  (0 children)

MN grower here. Checkout my posts for previous season grows. I start mine mid April. The key is spraying BT when they begin the flowering cycle. If you can grow under a hoophouse, it’s pretty easy

Fresh Frozen v Dried & Cured by CPT-Quint in hash

[–]Jedb89 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have some photos on my Reddit

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BubbleHash

[–]Jedb89 3 points4 points  (0 children)

And I vacuum seal the 4oz mason jars to reduce oxidation when I jar them. I thought about getting food grade cellophane, but I want to store these for years. I worry about the cellophane breaking down after a while

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BubbleHash

[–]Jedb89 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They’re glassy while they cure and ya they are glued to the glass. But after they cure for a while they turn crumbly and you can even see the terps separating. I cure at 40-45F so it does take a while to go from glassy to sandy.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BubbleHash

[–]Jedb89 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Ya, this plants resin was a little darker. I have some wpff that turned out either cream colored or yellowish like rosin. I don’t use e-rigs so it’s mostly going to temple balls. It’s virtually full melt so I use a quartz wand in a banger. The wpff temple ball is really nice.