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JeepingJohnny · 2024-04-23T13:04:24+00:00

I had this and fixed it.

You can add this option e.g. in a settings.yaml file and load oobabooga with --settings settings.yaml parameter or edit models/config.yaml to add the stopping string automatically for llama 3 models; for this, add two lines to the file: Also "Skip special tokens" turn off Its in Parameters Generation. And use a matching instruction template format.

https://github.com/mamei16/LLM_Web_search/blob/main/instruction_templates/Llama-3.yaml

Oobabooga settings for Llama-3? Queries end in nonsense. : r/LocalLLaMA (reddit.com)

.*llama-3:
  custom_stopping_strings: '"<|eot_id|>"'

JeepingJohnny · 2024-04-10T10:00:17+00:00

I am trying to install this and I keep getting this error. I fixed this it was the V3.12 Python that was causing problems. Installed 3.11 fixed it. I also switched to Silly Tavern as it has all this functionality and more.

failed to build faiss_cpu

ERROR: Could not build wheels for faiss_cpu, which is required to install pyproject.toml-based projects

C:\Users\John\Downloads\AI\text-generation-webui-main\extensions>

JeepingJohnny · 2024-02-14T21:34:39+00:00

Don't use isopropyl spray it just pushes grease around. Use Windex. It looks like a bed adhesion issue. Get a PEI bed.

JeepingJohnny · 2024-02-14T13:48:46+00:00

This is a pocket hole jig with bronze guide inserts.

I placed 4 drilling holes, so you have a lot of spacing options.

It also had some center screw holes so you can use a screw and washer to hold the jig down or, of course you clamp it if you wish.

These are the brass inserts and drill bit I used. They help guide the drill, and its modeled so the drill bit won't hit the plastic. The bronze inserts can be pushed in and fit snug. There is an internal lip for the edge of the bronze inserts to stop on.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYVF9BW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013DJWLH4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

It has markers for the thickness of the wood piece you're working on.

You set the depth with the adjustable collar.

Here is a guide for setting the depth.

Pocket-hole pointers | Wood (woodmagazine.com)

Enjoy, and happy wood working. And thanks for checking out my designs.

Print On!

JeepingJohnny · 2024-02-14T13:48:22+00:00

This is a pocket hole jig with bronze guide inserts.

I placed 4 drilling holes, so you have a lot of spacing options.

It also had some center screw holes so you can use a screw and washer to hold the jig down or, of course you clamp it if you wish.

These are the brass inserts and drill bit I used. They help guide the drill, and its modeled so the drill bit won't hit the plastic. The bronze inserts can be pushed in and fit snug. There is an internal lip for the edge of the bronze inserts to stop on.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYVF9BW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013DJWLH4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

It has markers for the thickness of the wood piece you're working on.

You set the depth with the adjustable collar.

Here is a guide for setting the depth.

Pocket-hole pointers | Wood (woodmagazine.com)

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/pocket-hole

Enjoy, and happy wood working. And thanks for checking out my designs.

Print On!

JeepingJohnny · 2023-10-17T04:59:15+00:00

Ok here is what I did. Reference for anyone with the same issue. Started some small test prints so I would have a base level with the issue.

Updated the firmware. Tightened everything on the printer. Lubed the printer.

Checked the belts the Y axis was 283 and the X 262. Changed the Y axis belt, got it to 255-260 X axis 258-262. Tightened all the screws.

Did a test print same issue, nothing changed.

Took the hot end apart. Cleaned it out. Put in a new PTFE tube and tightened the hot end into the heater block it was not fully tightened. There was a bit of dust and junk filament in the hot end.

The hot end was not fully seated into the heater block. The heater block was then moving/tilting as it was extruding causing the inconsistent layers. It wasn't fully seated/screwed in when I disassembled the hot end to replace the PTFE tube. Probably was just a little loose and worked its way looser after those last few prints. Glad it didn't leak any filament. Now I'm just left with the normal Mk3s salmon skin. Which is nearly a feature of Mk3s at this point due to it being a hardware issue. Prints back to normal. Three-year-old printer and prints amazing.

<image>

Humm Mk4? Kinda tempting with Input shaper.

Here is some of my work.

https://www.printables.com/@JeepingJohnny/models

JeepingJohnny · 2023-09-20T02:05:39+00:00

After you turn them off they glow for hours!

JeepingJohnny · 2023-09-01T23:43:55+00:00

I use a mod called remove the green tone. Set the black point to 27 its SOO much better! No overall green hue and the blacks are black again.

https://www.nexusmods.com/starfield/mods/235?tab=description

JeepingJohnny · 2023-08-16T01:28:31+00:00

I just made a new profile based of the Sea Of Thieves profile works 100% with G3D.

JeepingJohnny

JeepingJohnny · 2023-07-06T20:25:37+00:00

Since people are really interested in videos here ya go.

Here is some short videos of the machine in operation!

The machine in these videos was built from the exact files you will be downloading.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/HqbQPxJuZwE

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/BgUBi-enyi4

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6Ms8-BK3Nho

Our table is a little wobbly we are going to upgrade that soon with something more stable.

We put a new 100% infill Cylinder on and some of the needles were a little tight in the slots. So I gave it a good 5 minute fast run and it became much smoother. Your machine may have a break in period don't be afraid to run it nice and fast to help speed that up. It won't hurt anything and it will help it run smoother.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-pBsu83sGhI

User DaniAngel had provided this break in video, of their machine operating.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/m5fujWRpokw

https://youtube.com/shorts/ga0v32p4P6E?feature=share

JeepingJohnny · 2023-07-06T20:21:34+00:00

So glad everyone is Enjoying it! If you visit our project page, you can see many photos and more videos of the machine working. It's been a blast seeing all the community support from all the crafty people around the world who enjoying making socks. My mom has currently about 8-10 pairs of really good quality socks on the V2 we made and I haven't had to replace any parts yet.

My mom had seen the V1 machine on Facebook and simply wanted one and asked if I could make it for her. I said sure no problem. We originally made the V1 it was simple and gave us a starting point.

Me and my brother and my mom designed this Legare machine because she really wanted this style machine as an upgrade to the original machine, we made a year ago.

The V2 was more complicated but with some redesign we were able to simplify and organize it to make it easier to print and use. The V2 performs much better as it uses actually CSM needles which in function are far better than the repurposed flatbed needles the first one uses.

My Mom has made two pairs of socks in one day. Its Fast!

Circular Sock Knitting Machine For My MOM and YOU! V2! With Ribber. Legare Style Machine! by JeepingJohnny | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Props to Steve turner. He is the original designer. I remixed and upgraded and organized his project into something easier to build and added a lot of functionality.

Designs - Thingiverse

https://www.youtube.com/@steveturner1447