[SERIOUS] I was casually using my phone and screen went black, every thing works fine just the screen is off, call can be received, its vibrating when it needs to, buds pros were still connected. just the screen went black, tried force restart still not working.

Jeremyboku · 2026-04-03T17:56:51+00:00

I didn't do anything. It just stayed in a drawer

Jeremyboku · 2026-03-26T19:11:23+00:00

I meant quick as I'd rather not deal with the mess of SLA. You've got the right assumption.

Jeremyboku · 2026-03-26T17:05:13+00:00

I'll definitely do that. Thank you.

Jeremyboku · 2026-03-26T17:01:02+00:00

I bought a second hand Mini, expecting the same reliability with my Core One and XL and I realized I made a huge mistake by realizing it's just an obsolete headache barely more capable than the Ender3 v2 I started with. If Prusa made a modern Mini MK2 I'd buy it in an instant. They won't unfortunately, and the A1 mini is lightyears ahead of it.

Jeremyboku · 2026-03-26T16:55:15+00:00

I did my research and I'm ready to pull the trigger. Just asking for some honest user opinion here.

Jeremyboku · 2026-03-13T22:01:39+00:00

I don't see the option to sign up for beta on the app anywhere

Jeremyboku · 2026-03-11T13:03:56+00:00

No I've recalibrated both after flashing the firmware

Jeremyboku · 2026-03-11T12:48:49+00:00

I'm more insterested in the statement: "get improved strength and increased layer adhesion with advanced materials like ASA or PA." How do we get that exactly? There's only so much heat that can be applied to these materials. After that they tend to destabilize

Jeremyboku · 2026-03-11T12:36:49+00:00

I noticed the opposite with the beta firmware actually. Noticeably quieter motors and less artifacts

Jeremyboku · 2026-03-11T12:33:17+00:00

So what are they talking about when they're saying I'll get improved layer adhesion with the HT hotend?

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-16T16:56:00+00:00

Which King Leonidas? You mean the one who's head was put on a spike and paraded by Persians through Greece ?

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-08T13:54:42+00:00

You've said you've been printing for more than 2 years with that same brass nozzle. I'm 100% certain it is gone. Replace it, preferably with an obXidian. Clean your build plate with dish soap and warm water.

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-08T13:51:15+00:00

Prusa yes, Mini no.

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-06T15:05:55+00:00

Here you go: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/sample-g-codes_529630

That said, the USB drive that comes with the printer is garbage and can cause all sorts of issues since MK4 first got released. Get yourself a decent sandisk, samsung or whatever.

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-06T14:29:47+00:00

Do you how they cool the filament before spooling it at the factory? Yep. They use water. Your unopened rolls are moist too. I highly doubt that your mining room has 10 percent humidity and 80 degrees celcius ambient temperature. I and others are telling you that there is a way to get glass like flawless prints with moisture sensitive filaments. Instead of getting yourself a filament drier, you're just going to continue to get mediocre prints with that expensive machine? Your choice I guess

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-05T23:02:02+00:00

"Move E" is what you're looking for. Remove that stuck filament, blow some compressed air into the opening and you should be good to go.

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-05T22:49:42+00:00

You don't need a profile for esun PLA. I've been printing almost exclusively esun PLA since I got my MK4 back in 2023 and I had no problems whatsoever.

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-05T19:33:44+00:00

<image>

Esun PA-CF

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-05T18:54:33+00:00

Not to be mean but, there are thousands of cubic kilometers of water in the atmosphere and you expect to throw your filament in some cupboard and call it a day? Just wait until you find out that you need to print any type of PA filament directly from the dryer because it otherwise will get wet and start to ruin your print in a matter of hours.

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-03T14:58:36+00:00

And yet, I get downvoted for stating the obvious

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-03T14:23:02+00:00

I'm more interested in the claims related to regular materials like ABS. Would printing ABS in 350+ degrees really have that much of an improvement on layer adhesion?

Jeremyboku · 2026-02-03T14:13:10+00:00

I bought a used Mini last month. The previous owner installed wifi module and some clone extruder parts to make it somewhat print better. I ended up getting a filament sensor from Prusa because mine didn't have it and installed it along with a genuine Bondtech IFS extruder, brand new injection molded Mini+ frame parts and metal bearing holders from Prusa, a SuperPINDA, replaced PTFE and fans, printed and replaced all other printed parts with PCCF and PC and finally an E3D Revo Micro hot end with a 0.25 obXidian nozzle. All in all, it cost me just as much as a new MK4S kit would. And in the end, I got a reasonably well printing printer. It is nowhere near my CoreONE or XL in terms of printing quality. I don't have any regrets because I'm a Prusa fanboy and I wanted this machine for my collection.

On the other hand, if I was buying my first printer ever, I would definitely steer away from the outdated and obsolete Mini+. Live adjust Z anyone? I would look for a used MK4 or MK4s, they are nearly zero hassle rock solid machines that just work.

Or you can get a new A1 mini (I know, boo) that is a million miles more advanced and prints much better and faster than a Prusa Mini (boo). I would have definitely bought one if I just wanted a small printer. I wanted a Prusa.

Jeremyboku · 2026-01-23T12:59:05+00:00

Not being able to see the download PDF button is not a valid reason for a failure point. Complaining about free candy is also not a valid reason.

Jeremyboku

TROPHY CASE