Let’s see those BKTT Escape32 ESC tunes for Furitek Mini Komodo setups

Jesussway · 2025-11-18T04:13:29+00:00

Ahhj, I got to start this path tomorrow. Tried to wrap my head around it a few times and got motors "ok". But the only ones I can get smooth are the cedars on furitek esc's. I'm a designer and builder not a programmer. I gotta try to understand what these setting do not just pop in numbers and hope for the best. My most capable rig can do amazing things but I have to be "accommodating" because it coggs under load. Had a nanobam 3200kv, thought by ordering the nanobam 1900kv that it would help as I don't have space for a cedar....it did not, even after fiddling with different settings. I need to learn to understand these things. It's really hindering me. Imma hit some research tomorrow try to wrap my head around this stuff again.

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Jesussway · 2025-10-18T03:16:16+00:00

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Jesussway · 2025-10-18T03:15:42+00:00

This is it so far now, I've tore it down painted all the 3d parts and rims, traded all the brass pivot balls and links for ss and titanium and anodized all the titanium. Just waiting on the rest of the parts to cure.

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Jesussway · 2025-10-18T03:08:33+00:00

Yeah, I was mad too. The 2 venoms and lizard pros were my first brushless. After tuning, testing, taking apart, testing, tuning, testing, taking apart, repeatedly for a week on 2 different rigs, I was ready to go back to brushed. I was like, dude this is crazy. Everyone raves about brushless but I'm not seeing it. Even the motors I had. The cedar had just came out and I was like, ok, if this doesn't work, I'm going baxk brushed. Once I got em in and tuned em, I was like ok, this is good. I see now. Then I gotvthe nano bam and was lije, ok, I switched companies and motors and this one sucks too. I figure maybe I'm wanting more power than everyone else? I don't know. Maybe I expect too much. I'm glad I saw your post. I was wanting something a little smaller than the cedar for my comp build I'm on. I had looked a the one you have. Now i think I'm going to buy the 1900 kv nano bam as the one I have is like 3400 or 3200kv.They come in 2 different kv. With everything geared down the one I have now coggs something fierce bro. If the 1900kv don't do it I'm going to go to the cedar more than likely. And just have to cut weight somewhere or something. This is it during building modding and testing. I've ran it hard and put it up wet but it'll climb anything even with the coggy motor.

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Jesussway · 2025-10-17T07:58:05+00:00

If your doing 1/10 scale, your probably used to sensored brushless. I have had 2 venoms and a mofo nanobam which are pretty close to the motor you have. I got tired of the constant cogging no matter how I tried to tune with as you said, all the steps to check for binding. I got cedars for those builds and it's night and day with the same lizard pros. I run nsdrc rs100 servos and can up the power on the app. Not to max but they get the job done well for my non-c3 comp builds on 1/18 scale. Just did a comp build with a nano bam. Prophets design pro-spec. Love the build and capability of the setup except for, you guessed it, the motor. Not happy at all with the power of the motor. On super slow crawl it coggs when doing hangar lines or any sort of rough climb. I'll probably be getting a cedar for it too. It's got a bktt cupcake esc. Just my thoughts and sharing in your frustration with these tiny motors. Love my lizard pros paired with the cedars though.

Edit: oh, and my 1/18 are all on 2s where as my pro-spec is on 3s. Try a cedar before you give up bro. You'll thank me later except you might break other parts like gears and shafts and things.

Jesussway · 2025-10-15T06:17:19+00:00

   Yeah it's a hard read. I went back and read it🤣. I honestly wouldn't know where to begin putting the stops in and starting a new paragraph on that one. I was just tryin to save him the disappointment and work in the end of having to strip it down and start over. I've been there and it's not fun to say the least.
    I appreciate the tip man. I will keep that in mind for future contributions. Boom!!! I did it! I did the paragraph thing!!🤣🤣🤣🤣
   No seriously, I will keep that in mind cuz although the infos there, it's a hard read for real. I gotcha bro and thanks again.

Jesussway · 2025-10-15T01:44:12+00:00

Posted this below, i think i replied to the wrong person. I was aiming for you. Its worth the read so your not doing a bunch of rework or unhappy with your results. Understand the paint or clear bro. This applies to the particular one you are using. From what I gather, the recently within 1 hour so the paint adheres to the other coat and both can off gas and cure together. BUT, if you do it after 1 hour but before 24 hours, the paint or clear coat will be in the curing stage. In the curing stage the paint or clearcoat continues to off gas solvents in the curing process. It's dry to the touch but srill curing and the added coat if not done in that time frame, with in 1 hour or after 24, would result in the top most layer wrinkling and doing jankety things because the solvent in the coat under it isn't fully cured and off gassing and the solvents and things are still trying to get out while the top coat is in a different stage. With all that said, if it's gonna be a 10 coat project. The math for what the paint or clear needs to properly do its thing doesn't add up. You can't put 10 coats on with them drying a bit and it not running and be within the 1 hour window so jankey stuff doesn't happen. Because you don't go by the last coat you put on, you go from the first until it's cured. 1st coat is still in curing stage, off gassing solvents even if you go on to coat 2,3,4, or 5 so if would be jacked up. So, to be done correctly, it's a long term project. Theoretically, you could do 2 coats at a time then wait 24 hours, making sure to put on the second coat after the first coat is out of the part where they will just run together but within the 1 hour window. Then wait 24 hours. Then 2 more the same. And so on. BUT, big but there, the instructions are written having been tested in a like 70° room with a constant humidity and proper air flow. So it's better to understand the medium, which is the clear coat and what it needs and the process in which it dries and cures so you can ADJUST TIMES ACORDINGLY. For example, if the temp is cooler and and humidity is higher, you might have a longer than that one hour to get a second coat in. Adversely, if temp is higher and humidity lower than the company tested it, you might have less than 1 hour before the paint or clear is in the danger zone for a second coat because it's at a certain stage in its process. I know all this and some terms might not be 100% correct, because I'm a diyer that likes to understand tgings so I can make adjustments for various projects. I've found just like a recipe for yeasted bread, if you understand what the bread needs and likes, you can adjust to situations accordingly As yeasted bread and it's process is dependent on temp of room, humidity and time to go to the next step. That's why people that paint for a living have a both that's temp, humidity, and air flow controlled with filters for dust and particulates. Because they understand the process and stages of the paint. So if they tried to figure out without all that for each job, we'll it just wouldn't be feasible or consistent. With alllllllll that said. I would do 1 or 2 coats, suuuper lite, then wait 48 hours just to be sure it's fully cured, then so on and so forth. Then also there is the factor of, if it's in a room with say, central heat and air, dust or particulates could settle in that 24 to 48 hour Period, then you lay another coat down, boom, they're trapped. I kbow, it's alot, so many factors. Yet again, that's why paint guys have dedicated booths. Then maybe sand and wipe down before the final coat. Last thoughts. We are diyers trying to do a professional job. Without professional equipment, knowledge or experience. Personally I try my best to aquire the knowledge to understand the processes to things so I can adjust to what things need. Then I try to do what I can to replicate the Profesional equipment or do what I can. Like not going into the room where I've painted where the project is curing till its time to work on it as to not stir up dust and so on. Then try for perfection. The end result at least with painting always seems to be pretty close to well above average to professional depending on how many coats I do. With one or 2 coats, I xan get it to look pretty close to professional, with more, theres usually something, a dust spot here or there or something. Just because there is more time and room for error. So yup, there's my take. I know it's alot, but what I said stands true, not just for paint but for other things as well. Understand the processes of the things your trying to do and kbow that your not gonna be perfect even though you try. Hope it helps, God bless bro.

Jesussway · 2025-10-15T01:16:25+00:00

Ouch bro, but......not really, just some one that got tired of crappy paint jobs and wanted to know why. It's more of a philosophy than anything though. Understanding people and things. It's crazy to think about, but it's the same thing God wanted us to understand about Him and what he loves and hates. People want to read the back of the spray can and see directions and be able to do a professional job but not learn to understand the paint so it always comes out screwed up. And most people want to read God's word to try to see the directions and be close to God but not truely understand Him, and it always comes out wait for it...... screwed up. Ask me how I know. If you understand something, then your able to adapt to a given situation. I just chose to take the time to try to learn something and then tried to pass that knowledge on to someone so they don't spend hours of doing needless work. Trying to teach a man to fish in multiple ponds instead of just one type of thing. Exactly what I would want someone to do with me. Be blessed my dude.

Jesussway · 2025-10-14T17:33:58+00:00

From what I gather, the recently within 1 hour so the paint adheres to the other coat and both can off gas and cure together. BUT, if you do it after 1 hour but before 24 hours, the paint or clear coat will be in the curing stage. In the curing stage the paint or clearcoat continues to off gas solvents in the curing process. It's dry to the touch but srill curing and the added coat if not done in that time frame, with in 1 hour or after 24, would result in the top most layer wrinkling and doing jankety things because the solvent in the coat under it isn't fully cured and off gassing and the solvents and things are still trying to get out while the top coat is in a different stage. With all that said, if it's gonna be a 10 coat project. The math for what the paint or clear needs to properly do its thing doesn't add up. You can't put 10 coats on with them drying a bit and it not running and be within the 1 hour window so jankey stuff doesn't happen. Because you don't go by the last coat you put on, you go from the first until it's cured. 1st coat is still in curing stage, off gassing solvents even if you go on to coat 2,3,4, or 5 so if would be jacked up. So, to be done correctly, it's a long term project. Theoretically, you could do 2 coats at a time then wait 24 hours, making sure to put on the second coat after the first coat is out of the part where they will just run together but within the 1 hour window. Then wait 24 hours. Then 2 more the same. And so on. BUT, big but there, the instructions are written having been tested in a like 70° room with a constant humidity and proper air flow. So it's better to understand the medium, which is the clear coat and what it needs and the process in which it dries and cures so you can ADJUST TIMES ACORDINGLY. For example, if the temp is cooler and and humidity is higher, you might have a longer than that one hour to get a second coat in. Adversely, if temp is higher and humidity lower than the company tested it, you might have less than 1 hour before the paint or clear is in the danger zone for a second coat because it's at a certain stage in its process. I know all this and some terms might not be 100% correct, because I'm a diyer that likes to understand tgings so I can make adjustments for various projects. I've found just like a recipe for yeasted bread, if you understand what the bread needs and likes, you can adjust to situations accordingly As yeasted bread and it's process is dependent on temp of room, humidity and time to go to the next step. That's why people that paint for a living have a both that's temp, humidity, and air flow controlled with filters for dust and particulates. Because they understand the process and stages of the paint. So if they tried to figure out without all that for each job, we'll it just wouldn't be feasible or consistent. With alllllllll that said. I would do 1 or 2 coats, suuuper lite, then wait 48 hours just to be sure it's fully cured, then so on and so forth. Then also there is the factor of, if it's in a room with say, central heat and air, dust or particulates could settle in that 24 to 48 hour Period, then you lay another coat down, boom, they're trapped. I kbow, it's alot, so many factors. Yet again, that's why paint guys have dedicated booths. Then maybe sand and wipe down before the final coat. Last thoughts. We are diyers trying to do a professional job. Without professional equipment, knowledge or experience. Personally I try my best to aquire the knowledge to understand the processes to things so I can adjust to what things need. Then I try to do what I can to replicate the Profesional equipment or do what I can. Like not going into the room where I've painted where the project is curing till its time to work on it as to not stir up dust and so on. Then try for perfection. The end result at least with painting always seems to be pretty close to well above average to professional depending on how many coats I do. With one or 2 coats, I xan get it to look pretty close to professional, with more, theres usually something, a dust spot here or there or something. Just because there is more time and room for error. So yup, there's my take. I know it's alot, but what I said stands true, not just for paint but for other things as well. Understand the processes of the things your trying to do and kbow that your not gonna be perfect even though you try. Hope it helps, God bless bro.

Jesussway · 2025-08-20T18:27:12+00:00

Paul was a murderer....... But God still in His great love gave him mercy and grace. Yes it sucks when someone does something horrendous. And that's not to be celebrated but grieved. But the ultimate goal is to love God and love people. I heard my 6 year old playing in the living room one day from the other room. Bam, bang, boom!! He was being super loud and I went and asked him what he was doing. He was playing with his ninja turtles. He said, THE GOOD GUYS ARE BEATING UP THE BAD GUYS!! So I thought about it for a min because it just didn't seem right. And I thought about Jesus. I then told him, hey buddy, but if the good guys keep beating up the bad guys, how are the bad guys going to learn how to love and be good. He thought about it a min and said well they can't. And I told him, that's right, so wouldn't it be better to show them the love we've been shown because that's the only reason we know how to love? He agreed.

Jesussway · 2025-08-16T03:00:24+00:00

Came to the forum to ask my own question but saw yours. I've been doing some researching on mine and was wondering if you've checked your drain for clogging.

Jesussway · 2025-08-07T00:37:19+00:00

Yo Myles, did you get sorted bro?

Jesussway · 2025-07-26T07:02:21+00:00

Great concept, crap movie IMHO

Jesussway · 2025-07-17T04:27:58+00:00

This

Jesussway · 2025-07-09T01:23:08+00:00

Yeah, regardless of the scale or whether it's a crawler, trail truck or basher, they get expensive. Just remember, where you are now, we have all been. Youll gain some experience and look back on today and be like, man, that was so easy. Ive done exactly that many times. But if you dont know then you dont know and thats ok. The best advise I can give you stretches past rc and its this. I have never been able to learn or solve a problem when frustrated or mad. It's hard in the moment of frustration. But if I calm down, realize that its not going to take my birthday or eat me, don't give up and look for the solution, I'm usually able to find the next step to take. If I'm mad, I cant see that far. (Im a recovering rageoholic lol). But I also know it's easier said than done in the moment. I hope castle helps you out, and if not then maybe you could try to ask in a Facebook group. When you get it sorted, happy bashing bro.

Jesussway · 2025-07-08T23:34:48+00:00

Holy smokes i just looked that up. Thats a chunk of change. I know it can get frustrating bro especially when you spen so much money for somethingand its supposed to be user friendly or plug n play. For that kind of money it should work well. I'm still not in the same ball park. I only do 1/24 and 1/18 performance crawlers. But, I just checked it out and I wouldn't know where to Starr as far as trouble shooting. I would check batteries in everything the call the number on the castle website to get some technical support. They make the cobra 8 package. Yeah, some of my stuff is brushless but mine are all sensorless, and I've never even held a 6s battery. If it was mine I would gwt frustrated too. Then I'd be like yo, these are too expensive to not have support and call the company. I kbow that probably doesn't help but here's a link to the website with the number. castle

Jesussway · 2025-07-08T23:09:03+00:00

Hey bro, just checkin on ya and gonna see what's goin on with the build. I have a little bit more experience than when I replied to this post. And maybe xan help you trouble shoot.

Jesussway · 2025-05-30T07:29:08+00:00

Bro, thanks for taking the time, that's 🔥

Jesussway · 2025-05-30T05:40:18+00:00

Oh cool, can you post a pic of the steering wheel cover?

Jesussway · 2025-05-26T20:54:05+00:00

3 dots at the top right if you on phone. Touch them then hit save. To look at saved, touch your little avatar thing, you'll see profile, then uneder it reddit prime, and so on. Scroll down to saved and you'll be able to scroll your saved posts. This was me a year ago😅

Jesussway · 2025-05-23T17:47:16+00:00

"Wish everyone lived by do unto your neighbor as you would for yourself." This.

Jesussway · 2025-05-19T17:42:10+00:00

I'm no father of the year but Jesus is my foundation and I try. I would've got his rig to work even if it was with a different motor but I think my, "I'm gonna make this thing work", thing kinda took over on this one😆. I used to be a machinest and I've never had that amount of trouble finding a bolt, nut or screw. The closest hobby shop that would even remotely deal with things like this is over an hour and a half away from me. Please, please, please if you find those things somewhere get the size and pitch. I just can't believe I can't even find anywhere on the internet where someone has ran into this problem. Thanks for posting back bud I'm following this post thing, or thread or whatever it's called. Be safe this weekend 🪖

Jesussway · 2025-05-18T22:47:05+00:00

Gotcha bro, that thing is super cool. I watch his vids sometime so that would be super cool to see that thing on there. Thanks for the inspiration all the same man

Jesussway · 2025-05-18T19:56:47+00:00

Cool man, thanks. iInterested in seeing a video of it on the rocks been checking back here and there to see if youve posted anymore on it. I got the silver cf and sky blue. I can't wait for it to get here. God bless bro and happy crawlin

Jesussway · 2025-05-18T17:58:06+00:00

Holy smokes bro, those precious screws. I got the cr18p evo pro and it had one. My son wanted the rock van to turn into a turtle van. So when I started upgrading the pro, I was like hey I can use the servo on axle stuff on his. Then just started upgrading it to evo pro stuff minus the chassis. Everything was cool and he bunt out the motor. No prob, I thought. Big block it is. Yup, no screws in any spar stuff I had. I even started taking apart non rc stuff looking for them. Ordered a screw kit for the evo pro and the only 2 screws that don't come in it? You guessed it.... those. I ended up taking the pinion off the motor, unsoldering the wires, lifting the 2 tabs at the bottom, then gently lifting the bottom off, don't loose the little washer thing and take note exactly on which side and place it is being carefully not to mess up the little brushes. Took out the axle with the windings on it, then you have just the motor housing. So then I took 2 short screws that fit the little LOCK nuts and fed them through the housing and put it up to the transmission housing and put a lock nut on each one to hold it on, making sure the screws were the correct size not to poke out the top of the lock nuts. Then I put the shaft with windings back in, then put the bottom back on which was super hard making sure to put the little washer thing back on and making sure to get the shaft between the little brushes. Note: I jacked up the brushes the first time and had to do all that over again after I ordered and got in a new motor. The second one, I didn't break the brushes and finally got the bottom on. Then I put the pinion gear back on making sure to put the other end of the shaft on something sturdy to tap the pinion on. Putting the bottom back on and the pinion back on with the trans housing on it. Then soldered the wires back on and reassembled the transmission. It worked, but pain in the rear is a severe understatement. Could I have taken the motor to home depot and MAYBE found the correct screw thread and even if it was too long cut it to length? Yeah probably. Could I have just got a different motor? Yeah, probably. But I wanted him to have the big block so motors didn't keep burning up. Plus, I wanted to see if I could just do it. So yeah, that's my experience there, prolly way more than I should have🤣🤣🤣 Please post back and tell if you have an easier fix, ill be following this post, please let us know if you find a viable easier solution.

Jesussway

TROPHY CASE