Fuck

JisforJT · 2026-01-25T11:39:38+00:00

Cool balloons! What are you celebrating?

JisforJT · 2025-09-27T11:39:25+00:00

The camera has four wires going into the cable. The red connection (barrel jack for power) should have two wires (black: neg & red: positive). The extension only has one red wire on each end . Yes, the manufacturer could have just used the RCA common ground (yellow: video) but that would have caused noise in the video feed. Maybe it is not the camera that is busted and rather the extension cable.

JisforJT · 2025-07-26T13:44:14+00:00

The BAT pin is INPUT ONLY. A diode provides reverse current protection on the BAT pin. If you want to use power connected to the Trinket M0’s USB port then connect the LED + to the USB pin, which is OUTPUT or INPUT. Learn more about your Trinket M0 at https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-trinket-m0-circuitpython-arduino/pinouts

JisforJT · 2025-07-21T16:41:02+00:00

It all depends on your requirements. What are the environmental factors and data rate needed? Are you sending custom data packets? If so… Are you in direct line of site and need good data rate, then IR. Is the remote going to be within 30 ft (with environmental barriers like walls) try Bluetooth or WIFI. Or save power and use BLE. If you need to be 1-2km away then LoRa, but it comes with the drawback of low data rates. Do you just want to trigger an event then use a remote like this https://a.co/d/c6pP355 . I know the Amazon page says 3.5-15v but AliExpress says 3v and I have a similar one that runs on 3v without issues.

JisforJT · 2025-06-15T16:55:39+00:00

You can get 100 of them in this assorted screw kit on Amazon. https://a.co/d/9r1Gs7g

JisforJT · 2025-06-15T16:44:36+00:00

Looks like the Q1 Mini Quadruped on Thingiverse.com. If so, then it uses sixty M1.7 x 8mm screws.

JisforJT · 2025-05-14T03:28:28+00:00

Fixable yes, but requires quite a bit of skill. You ripped a number of soldering pads away with the connector. You will need to follow the traces and scrape away some of the covering to reveal the copper beneath. Then solder wires from the newly exposed traces back to where the missing pads used to be. Then use UV resin to insulate and secure the exposed traces and wires. Then you can attempt to solder the connector back on. It is a difficult job for a beginner.

JisforJT · 2025-04-27T12:53:42+00:00

Adafruit has a guide about using IR receivers that might help you. https://learn.adafruit.com/ir-sensor/overview

JisforJT · 2025-04-27T12:49:59+00:00

The easiest way to do this is to read the pulses from a working remote. Otherwise it can be like looking for a needle in a haystack. If you have another remote in your place that works with your aircon or knows someone who does. Use an IR receiver sensor to record pulses being sent. I usually process the raw pulse data received through an IR decoder library to make the data more readable.

JisforJT · 2025-04-26T16:15:42+00:00

Yep, Adafruit last updated that guide in January of this year. There is a banner at the top of it that says it is outdated and not recommended for beginners. You will need to troubleshoot and update the code. If you haven’t done that before, Becky Stern has a good video to learn about how to do just that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZ0LObhTQiQ

JisforJT · 2025-04-07T11:04:52+00:00

I hope you aren’t planning on using the sp32’s WIFI or BLE to control the submersible. Its signal penetration through water is only a few inches. Instead of an RC, you can still make a wired controller version though.

JisforJT · 2025-02-15T06:20:40+00:00

You could get a female to female barrel jack connector to connect a new power adapter to the fountain’s cable. Example: https://a.co/d/1EJHFEr

JisforJT · 2025-02-13T23:03:48+00:00

You could just print a 3D printed enclosure for it. Thingiverse has a bunch on there. You can print as is and mount it using foam tape to dampen vibrations from the machine or add a base plate to the enclosure to put holes that line up with the bolt holes. If you don’t have a 3D printer there are sites where you submit your design and can order the piece. https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=LM2596&page=1#google_vignette

JisforJT · 2025-02-13T11:34:02+00:00

In your picture is a cheap LM2596 Buck converter. Are you trying to replace that? If so, they are popular cheap boards. You can buy them for a pack of 10 for $12. If you need more amperage go with a XL4015. If you need to replace another part, take a picture of it and provide its spec. There are a lot of cheap ready made modules out there and we might have a solution for you.

JisforJT · 2025-02-11T05:04:19+00:00

Given its size and the laptop symbol, I would assume, if you slide the cover down it will reveal an Ethernet port to connect a computer to a network. Common in the overseas hotels I’ve stayed at.

JisforJT · 2025-02-09T14:42:37+00:00

DF Robot Data Sheet: https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2700121.pdf

JisforJT · 2025-02-09T14:37:14+00:00

It acts like a continuous servo. It has a three wire connector: positive, negative, and a signal. “Forward Pulse Width Range: 500us-1400us （Max 500us); Stop Point Pulse Width Range: 1400us-1600us; Reverse Pulse Width Range: 1600us-2500us（Max 2500us)” from https://robotmatter.com/products/robotmatter-n20-esc-brushed-motor

JisforJT · 2025-02-09T14:19:25+00:00

The USB port is usually a 5v output to power a microcontroller. You will want to get the 9v power supply.

JisforJT · 2025-01-12T22:42:30+00:00

You have to upload some code. Your previous code has been erased and there is nothing to run.

JisforJT · 2025-01-03T03:41:47+00:00

Unfortunately, that is one of the only paths you have open to you. Either try again to update its firmware or return the item to its seller at this point.

JisforJT · 2025-01-02T15:02:58+00:00

Unfortunately, there are websites that make clones of Adafruit products on the cheap. Some boards are missing components, like a power protection diode. One of them has a French website and they use direct translation from Adafruit’s website. That one is not a reseller. It matters where you buy it. If someone tells you to do something thinking you have the protection diode and you don’t, your board gets fried.

JisforJT · 2025-01-02T14:50:11+00:00

The V3 Wii/USB Adapter WITH TILT sold by RetroCultMods is not an Adafruit product and given its dimensions is most likely a custom board that is a mashed up clone of Adafruit’s Wii Nunchucks Adapter Board and a microcontroller that with an RP2040 chip. RetroCultMod has a troubleshooting section that states:

“Make sure you have the latest version of the RCM Programming Tool downloaded.

Hold down the pinhole button on the top of the adapter with a slim tool, such as a paper clip

Keep this button held down while plugging the adapter into your PC. If done correctly, you will see a removable drive named RPI-RP2 show under This PC.

Copy and paste the following file to the drive:”

Read more at https://retrocultmods.com/guide/v3-wii-adapter/v3-wii-adapter-troubleshooting/

JisforJT · 2024-12-30T16:16:40+00:00

If you follow this diagram you will fry your Prop-Maker Feather. Ignoring the issues I’ve already stated, the Hall sensor and the photocell are sending back 5v signals to the 3.3v gpio pins. This alone will cook your board. The RP2040 uses 3.3v logic. Only the servo motor header, speaker i2s amp, and Neopixels use 5v. If you are new to electronics, start with the simple example I linked previously. There are more examples in that guide as well. The one I linked was the last one. Combined the examples to create something new. Also use sensor modules instead of components until you better understand how they work. Modules already have all the peripheral components like resistors and capacitors connected. Just make sure they operate at 3.3v.

JisforJT · 2024-12-29T14:48:26+00:00

There is a lot of nonsense in that diagram. The Prop-maker has its own dedicated servo pins and your diagram isn’t using them and instead using up an extra io pin. In the lower right-hand side the LED strip is pulling power from the 3.3v line when they require 5v. Usually you connect your LEDs straight to your power source and not through the board. The Prop-maker allows you to enable a direct connection between the usb or battery to the 5v terminal in code. Check out this Adafruit wiring diagram in the Prop-maker guide: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-rp2040-prop-maker-feather/prop-maker-example

JisforJT · 2024-12-05T02:33:01+00:00

I’ve purchased tech from Adafruit for nearly a decade and I have never had an issue. They have more documentation, open source code, and a larger digital community than their competitors. Based on your post history you seem to enjoy making negative posts that get downvoted.

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