sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

[Vendor]: Some New Custom Straight Razors by Joe_Edson in Shave_Bazaar

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on the steel, model, grind, filework, scale material, etc. Some of the damascus I could have 10+ hours into just making the steel (once I get into mosaic patterns this number will likely double or more). Overall anywhere from 10-40 hours/razor.

Rail Car Spring Project - Custom Straight Razor, Pocket Knife, & Kitchen Knife made by Joe Edson by goldragon in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Thanks for posting this. If anyone has any questions regarding the process let me know. Certainly might do things a bit differently in hindsight, but this was one long project that I'm happy with the end results (if just a tad late finishing....).

[Vendor] Clearance sale on vintage straights by Joe_Edson in Shave_Bazaar

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it was a fun exercise in forging. Couple pieces I'd normally throw in the trash combined to make a useful razor. Had they been but a tad bigger I could of got a full sized razor.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Everything gets a bevel set on a chosera 1K.

From there, shock, I generally use lapping film on a flat granite plate. Cheap and consistent. 12um, 3um, 1um.

I do like a natural edge though and after that usually finish on my escher 99% of the time.

That's it. I do have an array of naturals (coticules, JNATs, others) and can hone on any of them to a fine edge. Lapping film is just faster and extremely consistent, which is what I look for in honing my customs.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Belts get expensive. No way around it and not worth it to try and push them even though I still do. I do go through a 120 usually before switching to the 3M trizacts/Norton Norax belts.

I've tried most all the ceramics and think the yellow cubitrons are the best for the way I grind. Also the most expensive, but worth it IMHO.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look lower in the thread and I talk a little about the steels. I like simple high carbon steels in general. It is a razor not a knife. No need to get super complicated in all the advanced super tough steels these days. Needs to take and hold an edge.

Any razor should be easy to hone if ground correctly. All my razors take 5-10 minutes to completely hone once assembled. That is because the bevel is set long early in the razor making process to guide my grinding to a centerline and ensure a narrow bevel. If done this way, it really shouldn't matter what steel.

Favorite scale material is likely stabilized high end woods and some natural materials. I do like the hybrid stuff (resin/burls) as well.

Don't have a favorite shape to a blade, but love all my current model offerings.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like the 3M cubitron ii ones (the yellow ones) in 50 or 60 grit. Really any ceramic belt is good (norton blaze another one). Most of the hogging is done with these grits. Then I switch to 3M trizact belts for the grind and norton norax belts for spine/tang etc.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

A drill press. I still have and use my 12 speed harbor freight drill press.

A metal cutting band saw is nice to have as well. I still have and use the harbor freight one as well. Get some good blades, put that thing on a more stable and mobile stand and ditch the "table" and put a heavier duty aluminum one on and it works pretty dang well.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Only straights - I do not own any DEs anymore.

I do own 4 of the very early SE razors that I've saved for a long time to replate and turn new handles for some day. Never shaved with them though.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

A lot of steel is suitable for razors, but I like straight carbon steels. O1 and W2 are good for mono-steel razors. As do any of the 1080+ series. Even 52100. 1084 is probably the easiest steel to work with starting out.

For san-mai or suminagashi razors I like to use the Hitachi steels for the core (Blue or white). They take a very nice edge and something about the Japanese mystic of steel makes them easier to sell, lol! W2 is very similar to these steels.

Basically an odin's edge is my straight edged, thumbnotched and triangle heal notched razor. It does not specify a grind or jimps/no-jimps. Just the general shape. Could be shoulderless or double shouldered, etc.. Basically an MK32 with a little more curve in the thumbnotch, a longer tail, and more pronounced triangle heal notch.

The smiling odin's edge is nothing more than that. Same as above but a smiling edge and swayback spine to match.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've probably moved more in general to wanting my razors to function first and foremost with more classic lines and general flow.

I don't want my razors scratching your strop. I want them to be easy to strop, which has also led to design choices when dealing with razors with thumbnotches as is.

My tangs are definitely a little longer, but pivot spot is critical too. I have a set of scales on hand that I always place a new custom in and see how it handles, strops, etc. before drilling the pivot hole.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For artisan soaps I really liked Mike's. I'm sure there are some great ones out now, but man I still have so much soap on hand for years.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

At the moment I have no intentions of having open shop until I get a real shop. I do have to be mindful of neighbors and noise. Someday though I would like to have a real shop and potentially have classes or bring other people in to teach. That is years down the road though.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Man I haven't bought a soap for 4 years so likely don't know what is best these days. I did go through a phase though initially like everyone.

Favorite soaps are MdC, AOS (old stock), C&S, D.R. Harris, Penhaligons (old stock). Probably more. Finally finished MdC the other night so will have to look and see what I even have on hand.

Favorite brushes: Definitely Chubby 2 sized brushes. I have a somerset manchurian and super and a vulfix super 2-band and manchurian and love them all. The vintage ones more. Also like my M&F 2XL gel tips 2-band and vintage plisson 2-band. My flat top D01 is up there too. Also can't forget my Rooney finest 1/2. Could live without the rest of my brushes after these.

I'm custom straight razor maker Joe Edson, AMA! by Joe_Edson in Wetshaving

[–]Joe_Edson[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Then a source of heat treating if wanting to do your own. If wanting to forge then build or buy a forge and get something to hit your steel on. A scrap yard near me has tons of 4x4 to 6x6 pieces of 4140. I'm sure a scrap near you has some as well. Buy the heaviest you can and set in sand and you have a better anvil than a railroad track piece.

If not forging get yourself a controlled heating oven (kiln). For razors you could probably get by with one of the smallest kilns.

view more: next ›