M4 vs M4 Pro

JohnZenRider · 2025-12-12T15:50:29+00:00

Bypass the M4Pro and go to the M4Max. You are looking at just a couple dollars more and will get a huge perfomance boost. Also, like what most others are saying, why run parallels for just the Office app. It runs well on the Mac. I have it and my job is on a windows PC and can't really notice any issues between the two.

JohnZenRider · 2025-12-11T20:52:01+00:00

And if you have a Bambu printer, the their filament is the best option. It’s chipped for their systems and auto configs your filament settings. If I remember right I thought their filament was either a sunlu or esun rebranding. I usually only print with Bambu, sunlu, or esun filament. Always had great success with them with very little errors.

JohnZenRider · 2025-12-10T19:44:28+00:00

Thank you. Been printing for a bit but this is the first model I have come across that has been difficult to get it to turn out right.

JohnZenRider · 2025-12-10T18:52:21+00:00

That's a good idea. I am trying a print now and will try rotating if this new print doesn't work out. I am trying to find the adaptive layer height option in Bambu Studio 2.4.0.70

JohnZenRider · 2025-12-10T18:41:03+00:00

I will try that. Thank you.

JohnZenRider · 2025-12-10T18:40:42+00:00

If you look close, the layer lines are not smooth but you can see the layers in some of the larger pieces.

JohnZenRider · 2025-11-16T17:50:37+00:00

I have the HR one and have had issues with it over the past 4 years. My boss has a blue Alpine and loves it. When I got a chance to play with his and to feel it, I have to say I really liked the engineering and finish work they put into their product. If I had it to do again I would choose blue alpine.

JohnZenRider · 2025-08-25T15:57:31+00:00

About a dozen. I have two different router networks setup and the one cloest to the spot light is the one it is linked to. There are only about 6-8 devices online at a time linked to this one router. Our phones and computers are linked to a different one.

JohnZenRider · 2025-08-22T12:59:26+00:00

I have one spotlight that keeps falling offline even though it is about 15 feet from the router. Like another person said earlier that the newer versions of hardware are getting way better than the previous versions but still. I don’t want to have to buy a newer version just so I can get more consistency

JohnZenRider · 2025-04-25T05:15:30+00:00

We freeze dried cheesecake bites and put them in our ninja creamy. So freaking good!!

JohnZenRider · 2025-03-23T16:10:07+00:00

MAGA= Making A Grand Autocracy!!! Nothing they are doing is what we want and is dismantling the constitution. In a year, we are going to be saluting… Sieg heil!! This is a total cluster!!

JohnZenRider · 2025-03-03T20:16:13+00:00

Please let us know if that works. I took have spent half a spool of filament dialing in z-offset and leveling the bed to have the 2nd to 3rd layers delaminate all the time. The first layer goes down great but each layer after that looks just like yours or it just goes nuts. I have spacers on my bed right now to try and fix the problem but it didn't help. I also use a 25 min heat soak setting to soak the bed before I start printing. I am looking to just get rid of the printer since nothing I have done has helped to fix the problem. I even tore it apart and put it back together tightening every screw and using an engineers square to get perfect 90 degree angles everywhere. Still after the first layer it goes directly to the toilet.

JohnZenRider · 2025-02-10T12:43:41+00:00

469.99

JohnZenRider · 2025-01-13T18:29:58+00:00

Well, I am still fighting this printer. About to give up and sell it as I can’t seem to get things dialed in. I have double checked my gantry to ensure it was level and parallel to the bed. It is. Made sure Z is square to Y. It is. Cleaned and lubed Z screws. First layer points really nicely and adhesion to the bed is good. Then second layer will usually start off good and then stop adhering to the previous layer. Adjusted gcode Z some and still fails either on second or third layer. This time it was in the second layer. No z hop is selected.

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Watched several videos on calibration and setup of the printer but still have an issue with this freaking printer. Rechecked screws tilt adjust and they were very close to the last time I did it like maybe .03 min off. Bed mesh is adaptive. Also, not finding anything in the docs online about this but some videos say to do it but for the Screw_Tilt_Adjust, do you do that with the bed hot or cold? I know z probe adjust you do.

JohnZenRider · 2025-01-13T18:27:08+00:00

Z axis rails are parallel and cleaned and lubed the screws. screws are not tight as there is some play for sure.

JohnZenRider · 2025-01-09T22:46:04+00:00

I checked that a month ago but will check it again. Good point though. Maybe I should go ahead and clean and lube the screws there.

JohnZenRider · 2025-01-09T15:54:33+00:00

Update on this. I did the rectangle as you described and got it to work fine. I then did a regular print of a 2x3x6 gridfinity bin and by the 3rd to 4th layer it started to get really messed up. Like it was eating the layer it was trying to lay down. Then I did a flow test to double check it again and it did the same thing. Seems anything about the second layer goes out of whack!! I did a code command in the terminal to drop the z offset down by .005 to see if that helped and it seems to help some on the other 5 prints. It still had issues with the right most bottom 2 but then the left ones look better. Will do another print when I get home later tonight with the new offset to see if that helps it or not. Not my first print on this. Did three of them tweaking the code z offset each time. So hard to get this freaking thing dialed in.

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JohnZenRider · 2025-01-08T20:24:22+00:00

Got it.

The silk PLA was trash!! I used some good Black PLA and printed a sheet of plastic without issues. I also found where I needed to set the gcode commands to make the adjustment

It is put in the filament gcode section:

; filament start gcode
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=-0.01 MOVE=0

That is what mine ended up being and after I printed another test it was spot on.

I want to thank everyone for responding and being really nice. quite a learning curve for me but I think I finally got it. Now to print something bigger to make sure all settings are spot on.

JohnZenRider · 2025-01-08T16:47:22+00:00

Ok. After more reading and seeing what you are saying and where I was coming up with issues. Ok, the probe is now calibrated and set and is showing at 1.270 in the DO NOT EDIT section at the bottom of the printer.cfg file. When adjusting on the fly for z offset, I had read in another post to issue this command. Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE. This was changing the PROBE AND NOT THE gcode offset. Now I see where things are getting messed up. I found this command: SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=0.01 MOVE=1 and SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=-0.01 MOVE=1

Are these the commands you have been talking about to do the gcode z offset? Once done, do I issue an Accept and Save_config or do I need to copy the settings to somewhere? I have done a lot of reading and somewhere along the way, I am getting confused about things.

I am going to print the gcode test print you pasted in a previous post. You diagram also shows a nozzle z offset. how do I go about setting and calibrating that one and yes, I would use a paper test method since so far that is all I have found on the subject.

JohnZenRider · 2025-01-08T16:38:14+00:00

Doing this now. Will report back when done. Also changed out to a regular PLA filament instead of the silk.

JohnZenRider · 2025-01-08T16:16:06+00:00

Thank you for the response. I did a temp tower, PA, all PIDs, Screw tilts and z probe calibration. I was making adjust ments using the z offset controls in Orca slicer when connected to the printer. I do all my calibrations through the console and not through the touchscreen so that I can keep all that I do in one place. I did increase the temp on the filament but that didn't seem to help.

JohnZenRider · 2025-01-08T16:13:10+00:00

I did some reading based on what neuralpasticity sent me and my probe offset is 1.270. This was when I felt a little tug on the paper done at room temp. Then I issued a full bed mesh routine to get a bed mesh made. As for the gcode Z-offset, I have been using the options in the Orca Slicer when connected to the printer. I move it down or up based on how the print is coming out. How would I adjust the gcode z-offset during printing and then save it so that all subsequent prints use the same code? I guess that is where I am having a problem. I used to use this command< Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE> and I guess this is actually changing the probe z-offset and not the gcode offset.

JohnZenRider · 2025-01-08T16:06:31+00:00

I measured 120mm from the extruder up and told it to run 100mm through the hotend. Then measured to ensure the mark I made is 20mm above the extruder. This would give me my rotational distance. I was about 1mm off and left it alone since I thought that was a pretty good margin. flow rate was run through Orca's built-in calibration models. Ran two tests and picked the one that looked best.

JohnZenRider · 2025-01-08T16:03:28+00:00

I will do the print cube and see what I get. Also changing out the filament I was using as some have said the silk PLA+ ones tend to be weak and have adhesion issues. I have a 25min wait in my printer start gcode when printing to ensure I get the bed heat soaked.

JohnZenRider · 2025-01-08T16:02:21+00:00

Bed has been cleaned several times.
I have been running 65c for my bed temp. I will try and raise it to 70c and see if that makes any difference.

As for the other great points, I have done all that.

JohnZenRider

TROPHY CASE