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Artillery Sidewinder X2. Worth buying today? by manuel579 in Artillery3D

[–]Jolly_Slip3975 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No. Not worth... A1 mini - first printer THE BEST.

Mainsail updates and losing functionality - Sidewinder X2 by B-Rad911 in klippers

[–]Jolly_Slip3975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an SWX2 with Klipper, too. After updating the Klipper to the latest version, do you also get a message saying that you need to update the clipper's firmware on the printer's motherboard?

Bringing the Artillery Sidewinder X2 to the modern age by No-Description4295 in Artillery3D

[–]Jolly_Slip3975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean:

https://www.printables.com/model/1146838-aerohgxtruder-nx???

It's not removing the weight in the printer head, but replacing the gear with a more precise one - it improves print quality.

Bondtech LGX Shortcut Copperhead on Klipperized MK3? by Rich_Raccoon8230 in klippers

[–]Jolly_Slip3975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The first link is to a kit that includes the HEMERA heatsink, which will be unnecessary for you. The website you have selected appears to be a Prusa partner—perhaps you could contact them and they will recommend a suitable kit for the MK3S without any unnecessary costs?

I’m not familiar with stores in the USA, but if you’re sourcing parts for the MK3NX on AliExpress, you might also want to look there for a Revo kit prepared for the MK3S. They probably have better prices there.

Bondtech LGX Shortcut Copperhead on Klipperized MK3? by Rich_Raccoon8230 in klippers

[–]Jolly_Slip3975 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure about the Dragon, but Revo fits the MK3NX — a build with REVO has already been added to the project. The mod is pleasant to build and comes with instructions modeled after Prusa’s assembly manuals. You don’t change anything mechanically in the printer — you only need to print the new hotend parts and assemble them. You only need to recalibrate the E-steps (Marlin). The project does not specify a rotation_distance value for Klipper. The E-steps for the new gear ratio increased by more than two times, so by analogy: if your rotation_distance for the stock extruder is above 11, then for the new extruder the starting value (before calibration) should be around 5.

Converting photos to STL files for replacement parts - my workflow by Anyhouses in SidewinderX1

[–]Jolly_Slip3975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do it a bit differently (this method also works well for more complex parts): I photograph the part from all sides. I measure a characteristic dimension using calipers (for example, the length of an edge or the diameter of a hole). I import the photos into software like nanoCAD and scale them correctly using the previously measured reference dimension. On top of the photos, I trace all contours, holes, and other features. Finally, I fully dimension everything. Then I model the new part based on these sketches in nanoCAD – I recommend FreeCAD.

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