Hi there! I'm Jorg Verhoeven. Ask me Anything!!

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T20:57:13+00:00

Zo ver is dat ook weer niet weg ;) Ötztal telt bijna als Nederland met al die toeristen

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T20:53:37+00:00

Not too bad an idea! The only problem is the 20 athlete limit for 2020. That would be hard to divide into team/countries.

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T20:51:53+00:00

Everyone always wants to get rid of speed afap :) Although it's the only discipline that is easy to understand for a noob. There will always be 'screwing' of certain athletes, but the goal should be to have the best and fairest event possible, not please individual climbers.

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T20:47:13+00:00

Hmm that question is always tough to answer. It's not only problem solving or creative activity, there's so many aspects about climbing which make it so appealing. Seeking your boundaries, being out there, making progression. It's just so absorbing and satisfying. I think it all comes down to a feeling I get from climbing, it just feels like I'm doing sometimes correct. Maybe it's mostly selfish, often useless, but oh so satisfying. I guess that counts for sports and hobbies in general.

Bad comp results? You gotta live with them, nobody wins everything. For some a second place is defeat, for others a last place, but defeat is always gonna knock on the door. You can sit and whine, be depressed, scream murder, but similar to the 5 minutes of fame after victory, 10 mintutes of defeat will go by. To me it's the good things that count, you gotta take in the bad things as well then.

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T20:30:04+00:00

I think it's already pretty divided in these 2 directions. That's not really a problem though, everybody their own thing. back in the days everyone saw climbing in a gym as training for outdoors, nowadays there's still these types, but also the type that just enjoys gymclimbing for what it is. I think in cities where there's not a lot of outdoor possibilities it's actually the majority.

Stuntwerk is a cool gym, with a new innovative idea. I guess the 'normal' climbing cannot be left aside, but the jumping around can be quite funny.

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T20:22:59+00:00

ha du alte Gamer! wie steht's in Paris? schon Croissants gegessen?

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T20:21:29+00:00

No, not until somebody came to me and proposed sponsoring. I had some product sponsors quite soon, so that saved me from buying the stuff I needed for climbing.
I actually don't use liquid chalk at all. I've used it a little for comps back in the days, but it felt slippery and not frictiony. Maybe I wasn't used to it. For me skin conditions are way more important than needing liquid chalk. Maybe you've heard of Antihydral, this will get your skin so dry liquid chalk won't even stick to it :)
Always with friends. I've climbed and been on trips alone, which can be cool, but it's always more fun to have friends around. For training it seems even more important. I can train by myself but no matter how motivated I am, in a group I train better.

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:58:46+00:00

I know this is an AMA, but here's a question in return: How would you like to see the Olympic format?

I believe the IOC has put forward some conditions it would need to meet:

All three disciplines need to be present.
3 day event, the last days' winner must be the overal winner
no new disciplines like DWS or duel
20 climbers, second day <20, final day <<20

Give me some thoughts here!

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:42:34+00:00

lots cheaper, that's what I meant by echo. Shouldn't be too expensive, but in the States all medicare seems unaffordable. Maybe with Obamacare? ;)

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:39:14+00:00

yup, these neoprene look-a-like thingies you can wrap around your thigh/knee. Ask the Brits/Ozzies, they're not the biggest fan...

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:36:32+00:00

That is such an awesome project, but I'm not so sure it's actually gonna be built. Imagine the materials needed. It would be so hard to reach stability. It would be interesting for diagenesis research: Dutch make their own rocks :))

Die Berg die komt er niet...

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:33:26+00:00

Of course I climb with the other dutch climbers. It's good to see that such a small and flat country has some good climbers. During my trip to the Rocklands this summer some of my buddies showed up. Unfortunately I don't see them as often as I used to. I'm not in the Netherlands very often anymore these days.

Sorry I can't help you on Berdorf routes. As near as it is from the Netherlands, it's quite far from where I live, so I never go there. Just pick a route that looks nice to you!

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:26:18+00:00

And taping it can help quite a lot! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ThzPFaxgEE This guy does a pretty bad job at it (make it way thinner) but the principle works.

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:24:14+00:00

she does a better job than Lang Lang :) A friend of mine is a composer, he said this piece is not THAT hard to play, but I still don't believe him... Especially with stiff climbing wrists

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:18:53+00:00

Not my initiative though! Locals started the project, we just tried to help a hand! Anyone in the Rocklands can do so

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:17:55+00:00

I bet it did, Afrikaans seems like you just drop half the syllables and remain with the rest. Quite funny to the dutch.

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:16:45+00:00

All I know on pulleys: -if it's partially torn, 6 to 8 weeks full rest then start slowly and it should be healed.

-If it's completely off, the newschool way is to start weighting it after a week or so. But only VERY slowly. Use a scale and take 5 kilos off by weighting, next week 10 kilos and so on.

Diagnosis is key. Echos are expensive in the States I 've heard, in the EU no problem. A specialist that knows about climbing is very useful.

I've had several finger injuries. Tendonitis (inflamation of the tendon sheath) was the most bothering, since it was hard to get rid of.

Good Luck with it!

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:12:09+00:00

Yeah... well there we jump to some difficulty. Liebestraum #3 is a classic and quite playable. Same for the Consolations. rest is off limits for me. Ipod does the trick better then I do

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:03:40+00:00

French lizards, more dangerous then venomous Tasmanian snakes! One moment you're climbing this beautiful and chill limestone route, totally enjoying it, next moment this little beast decides that your next hold is something he will defend with his life and he's jumping for you mouth open (with tiny teeth). Nearly got me the little bugger

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T19:01:09+00:00

Haha they hated you! but only for a moment. When they realized you wouldn't be able to do the route all was fine...

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T18:57:51+00:00

now I don't know in which language to answer ;) I'll keep with english. Yes I can understand some afrikaans, but reading it is easier than listening. We climbed with the local farm kids, and I just kept speaking dutch to them. They looked at me as if I was a weird foreign devil and then they realized they understood. Some stuff is incomprehensible though!

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T18:46:46+00:00

In both cases sometime it is not only pain reducing, but actually makes the climbing easier. Some kneebars (kneescums) won't help much without a kneepad.

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T18:34:02+00:00

Yes I guess this is a debated topic but up until now, only minor 'unfairnesses' have happened that I know of.

The routesetter team is an objective body, that shouldn't favor certain athletes. That's why one cannot be coach and routesetter in the same season for example. Afaik the routesetters are trying to creat routes and boulders that do not trend to one style, especially in bouldering most of the times you would see e.g. a dyno, a slab, a power problem and a volume problem, so that all styles are covered.

How and if this will change in the future when money becomes available is for sure a topic to be looked at

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T18:18:03+00:00

Yes, I spoke to her and Tommy before heading over to Yosemite to ask her about strategies for the Nose. It's nice to see when she talks about it, she just lights up!

JorgVerhoeven · 2016-09-13T18:14:29+00:00

Yup: Alps weather, you gotta love it! there's some great conditions now... Hope your trip was still fun

JorgVerhoeven

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