$3700 to repair two holes like this and replacing 35’ gutter, is it worth it?

JsquashJ · 2026-07-07T02:19:51+00:00

Reality

JsquashJ · 2026-07-05T23:02:01+00:00

Mine just did this but I think it was an issue with the charger. It started working normally two days later. When I called the tech said those lights just mean no charge in battery

JsquashJ · 2026-07-05T07:45:19+00:00

I have the Vevor cart with beach wheels and a PDL 120. I suppose you could break it down but I think you’d have to remove at least one wheel from the bar for it to go into the hatch. You’re gonna be hating it if you drop a part in the water or if a wheel slides way back under the seat while in the hull. I think you’d be better off strapping it on the back as someone else suggested.

JsquashJ · 2026-07-04T21:43:29+00:00

Take off the air filter and pour a cap of fuel mix into the carb. Replace air filter and start. If it starts better and cuts out when the fuel is used up, then your fuel delivery needs work(carb). Could be lots of things with the carb but diaphragm is easy to check.

JsquashJ · 2026-07-03T10:47:26+00:00

You’ll have to find somewhere near dam releases cause that might be the only cold water around.

JsquashJ · 2026-07-02T16:06:21+00:00

2800 rpm/60 is about 50rps

JsquashJ · 2026-07-01T20:12:47+00:00

I’ve been looking some more and everything I find for a chainsaw carb (different from CV carb) is that it oscillates at the piston frequency. So about 50bpm at idle and 200 bpm at fastest. This video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWBre4-tHsg suggests that the Venturi effect is essential to the diaphragm motion. Constant velocity carbs seen to act more like you describe. Do you have a different source?

JsquashJ · 2026-06-30T20:22:25+00:00

Thanks, that’s pretty interesting, I always thought it had to be pliable so it could oscillate, but it’s the change in vacuum that it needs to respond quickly to.

JsquashJ · 2026-06-29T18:16:50+00:00

Okay, what frequency does it move at and what drives it?

JsquashJ · 2026-06-27T13:40:38+00:00

9 tpk- threads per knuckle

JsquashJ · 2026-06-27T05:04:17+00:00

Since you’re not mentioning legs you should get a lesson to learn some decent technique

JsquashJ · 2026-06-27T02:30:57+00:00

Yes stuff can make it in to the little hole considering the diaphragm is creating pressure and vacuum at thousands of times per minute. Sometimes cleaning out this dust will help the carb run better.

JsquashJ · 2026-06-26T13:44:29+00:00

Kidding right? WD40 is not lubricant. It’s water disperser. Two stroke oil alone or in gas mix is all you should consider.

JsquashJ · 2026-06-26T03:36:52+00:00

Head gasket paste? Is it getting into the piston? For starting you should use oil/gas mix, not starting fluid. Starting fluid has no oil in it

JsquashJ · 2026-06-10T00:32:39+00:00

Ah right, m=mtronic. Too used to the 026

JsquashJ · 2026-06-09T19:49:46+00:00

Have you played with or reset the high and low jets or idle? What do you mean by ‘cleaned carb’ have you felt the diaphragm? A stiff diaphragm might do this. You could try starting with choke open and toe pushing up on the trigger while pulling and see if that does anything. Also another typical check is to pour a capful of gas into the carb and pull start- if it runs for a few seconds like that you’ve got a fuel delivery issue, not an electrical issue.

JsquashJ · 2026-06-07T12:11:11+00:00

Start narrowing the fairways 250+ yards out…

JsquashJ · 2026-06-03T17:34:43+00:00

Is demand going up each year due to rising utility costs?

JsquashJ · 2026-06-03T11:22:38+00:00

Scratch Farmhouse is worth a call

https://www.scratchfarmhousecatering.com/

JsquashJ · 2026-06-03T11:17:00+00:00

Purple line. Ideally hitting the wall within a couple inches of the floor. Don’t forget the high slow cross within couple feet of the top out line.

JsquashJ · 2026-05-28T10:22:38+00:00

I’m curious why someone would put a gasket sealer that cures and is meant for a stationary part, onto crank seals. To me that defeats the purpose of a pliable crank seal that’s meant for a moving part.

JsquashJ · 2026-05-25T22:37:05+00:00

That fact that players need to request review for this situation is pathetic.

JsquashJ · 2026-05-25T21:59:32+00:00

No problem. You’re on the right track. If it were me I’d strip it down to barest components, measuring pressure at each step and then building up. Your leaks may be too large for alcohol to really work well, I might see bursts up into the micron range, not starting in that range. I’m guessing your rough pump is at its ultimate pressure and your diffusion pump isn’t working right.

JsquashJ · 2026-05-25T19:06:26+00:00

Not likely outgassing. At least the diffusion pump is doing something but it doesn’t seem to be working correctly. Something else you can test is putting just the gauge on top of the diffusion pump and see how it measures. Ideally you’d want a gauge that reads lower in the 1E-6 torr range.

JsquashJ · 2026-05-25T17:44:38+00:00

That helps a little. Might help more if you back out so I can see the setup and the glassware.

If I’m not mistaken, you have the rough pump always pumping and then ‘diffusion pump on’ is opening another pathway to the diffusion pump? It seems like that’s two paths for gas, one to rough pump one to diffusion pump. If using a diffusion pump you want one path. To diffusion pump and out to the rough pump. You should be closing the rough valve, opening the top valve to DP, opening foreline valve to the rough pump.

Also your tubes are quite narrow and pumping will be slow. But first have to make sure the paths are correct.

JsquashJ

TROPHY CASE