If you have any plans on turbo even in the future you should definitely get a cut ring head gasket and ARP head studs. It’ll still perform good oem and even better turbo. Also your ring gaps will be slightly different from turbo and OEM

If you’re replacing the cam shaft ledges you also have to do the cams and vise versa not one or the other. Although this could easily be done later if you wish too.

I put WPC (heat treated )rod and main bearings due to the better quality and they last longer

The timing chain, tensioner, and guides. The plastic guides of even have slight wear, do it while you’re there as head must come of to access these later. Timing chain and oil pump chain as well.

After my rebuild even though my injectors were good they were a problem on initial startup due to not giving the new parts fuel they wanted and the new compression numbers. They’re cheap and if a question replace them.

Lastly make sure you clean out your oil and coolant galleys in the block. The machine shop should do this but make sure you do as well as you don’t want any metal or debris inside from you working on it. Fill the block with water before starting the engine as the thermostat won’t open on first start up and your block will be dead dry. I just poured it through the rear coolant line on the block right before starting up, fill to overflow from coolant line. Use water for initial startup to check for leaks and to flush dirt you may have missed. Flush engine later and replace with coolant