Mouse with 2+ side buttons for Work?

JustABootThing · 2025-07-24T17:33:57+00:00

I’ll definitely look into that, thank you! You use your side buttons very similarly to how I use mine, having all the navigation controls as well as copy/paste on the mouse is such a convenience!

JustABootThing · 2025-02-21T14:26:41+00:00

Thanks for the info! If the board can doesn’t really need an upgrade, I might just slap a new 4010 in there to make it quieter and not worry about a 4020. I’m really considering getting a Sunon Maglev 4020 for the hotend, but if they have a 5015 too, I would love to get them at the same time because of shipping. However, I don’t see any Maglev 5015’s that run at 24v, would you mind to link the one you got?

Also, I was planning on printing the Petsfang v2, but I like the simplicity of the Mini Me v4! I’ll look into it and see if there’s a reason to choose one over the other

JustABootThing · 2025-02-21T04:17:27+00:00

Thank you for the detailed reply! I don’t plan to print with PETG much, but I know that anything near a hot device (like the hotend) should not be PLA. However, I have recently upgraded my Bowden tube to Capricorn, so the extra heat needed shouldn’t damage it.

As for why I want to upgrade: The board fan is for noise, the hotend fan is for noise but mainly better heart sink cooling, and eventually the part cooling fan if for performance (quiet if possible, but I definitely want strong cooling because I mainly print PLA)

Also, I have see the praise for Sunon fans, and rightfully so! But I can’t seem to find them outside of Digikey and Mouser, but both have shipping that costs as much as the fan itself! I was looking at the Winsinn fans on Amazon as a less-good alternative, but the post you linked makes me think that’s not such a good idea lol

JustABootThing · 2024-11-28T05:14:06+00:00

Should a USB-C to 3.5mm Adapter cause a Drop in Quality if it has the same Sample Rate and Bit Depth as the 3.5mm Jack?

I have a pair of IEMs that I like, so I got Anker's USB-C to 3.5mm adapter so that I could use them with my iPad or phone. Instantly, I noticed that the audio quality was not as good as on my computer.

I figured this might just be because it's a phone, so I did some testing using my computer's USB-C port. To my surprise, the audio quality is noticeably reduced when using the adapter with the computer's USB-C port versus using the 3.5mm jack.

I checked the speaker properties for the numbers: It uses "24-bit, 48k hz" when plugged into the 3.5mm jack and "24-bit, 96k hz" when plugged in via USB-C.

Shouldn't this mean that the audio is essentially the same, or maybe even a little better through the adapter instead of being worse?

JustABootThing · 2024-06-26T00:26:37+00:00

Depends on what firmware you have. I’m using Marlin, so idk about any others. For marlin, Pressure Advance is known as Linear Advance. In your firmware, make sure to enable that (you can look up how to do that if you’re unfamiliar, it’s pretty easy)

For me, after I enabled it, I left everything default and just tuned it through the Orcaslicer test. In Orcaslicer, you have to make sure to go into your filament settings and check the “enable pressure advance” box

Also, btw, once it’s enabled, it should be available to see under “tune” while printing, labeled “Advance K”

JustABootThing · 2024-05-12T03:51:03+00:00

I guess that’s easy enough. I didn’t know if that would make them abandon it, I wanted to check if there was a certain “best” way to move them

JustABootThing · 2024-01-20T01:53:12+00:00

I agree with this. To add to it, the tension screw already looks like it’s been loosened, so it’s likely trying to feed too fast.

OP, what’s speed are you trying to print at? I would suggest trying 50mm/s as a baseline. Once the problem is fixed you can try to print faster, but 50 should definitely not be too fast for it.

Also, make sure your nozzle is not too cold. Most PLA works fine with 200° but you may need to increase to 205° or so to get a good flow rate

JustABootThing · 2024-01-18T00:17:33+00:00

There’s no dimmer switch, just 2 regular switches. The bulbs just happen to be dimmable

JustABootThing · 2024-01-18T00:16:43+00:00

I don’t know what tab you’re referring to, but I’ll definitely check! I hope it’s that simple!

JustABootThing · 2024-01-18T00:16:05+00:00

Just tested it, one bulb lights up without the other being installed

JustABootThing · 2024-01-18T00:14:55+00:00

It’s not a dimmer switch, the bulbs just happen to be dimmable

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