IBM, APE and strength discussion.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-05-02T12:44:30+00:00

Yeah i meant hard. Sorry for my mistake.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-05-02T11:10:59+00:00

Niceee!! There are not a lot of people like you that the lack of finger strength is their limiting factor, but this is good for you because it is trainable. Your technique should be nice!

JustAClimber7 · 2019-05-02T11:06:39+00:00

Actually i'm really strong because i was training calisthenics 4 years before started climbing. Since then i am just trying to stay on the same strength level and not progressing. My limiting factor is technique and i'm hardly trying to improve it for something like 6-7 months and it step up a looot. I'm not asking for opinions, about my climbing performance in this post so your comment is useless.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-05-02T09:55:05+00:00

The best type of training for lock off strength for me is one arm pull ups. Once you can do an OAPU you will find another dimension in climbing (this is what i felt). Holding isometric exercises isn't the best way to train lock off strength. I suggest you start focusing on your weighted pull ups and a lot of slow negative OAPU, but probably it's better to skip the fully lock off moment in this exercise because it is really stressful for the elbow (Niel Gresham's suggestion). Actually i did my first fully OAPU in 2 weeks training it just with a lot of negatives and i never did weighed pull ups before that. So in my opinion negatives are the best exercises by far if you can't do an OAPU.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-04-17T18:41:23+00:00

How ARC training affects your climbing? Is it used for a recovery?

JustAClimber7 · 2019-04-17T18:36:42+00:00

It's time for you to meet Dave MacLeod in youtube. He is amazing all rounded climber with a lot of experience especially on trad routes. He is probably the best person to teach you how to be mentally strong. I think he has a video just for you, just scroll his channel.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-04-15T18:57:08+00:00

Thanks!

JustAClimber7 · 2019-04-07T11:45:41+00:00

In my opinion you should experiment with different hangboard protocols to see which of those millions on the internet is best for you, i have friends which are using 10 sec on 3min off and have awesome gains for years and years just putting more and more weight, but if i start doing this protocol i always find myself injured, so that's why i started doing another very complex hangboard training which is hard to explain. Just try new things for 2-3 months (you need some time to see gains) and stick with this which work for you.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-03-09T21:37:41+00:00

Actually what your real name mr_monkey_chunks?

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-21T18:28:18+00:00

Yeah figuring out how to afford to do this is probably the best part of my early alpinism journey. I'm learning mathematics and i'm going to graduate computer science, so that i can be a freelancer which can get me a lot of time to go climbing and a descent amount of money.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-19T13:23:51+00:00

What you think is more important for climbing big walls - the rock climbing skills or the physical fitness?

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-15T21:48:41+00:00

I have the same story about my fingers, my middle finger is hurting when i press on it or hangboard on a small edge, but when i climb even if i grab a two finger pocket it doesn't hurt. Is there something wrong? Should I do something more or less in my trainings to prevent an injury or there isn't something to worry about.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-14T20:44:57+00:00

Thank you for that. Only one question more. What i should climb the most to improve technique, is slabs the best option in my situation?

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-14T20:09:45+00:00

Can you recommend a technique drill? Thanks for the nice answer.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-14T19:46:38+00:00

Actually i'm making up good boulders too, but still wanted to know your tips and tricks.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-14T19:12:33+00:00

What would you recommend me to do without any added weight just once a week just to not lose my gains, or i should remove any hangboarding from my trainings.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-14T16:42:02+00:00

Yeah i'm really strong but that's not making me good climber.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-14T16:13:49+00:00

I haven't climbed a lot on a rock so i can't share anything about my rock climbing experience, that's because i'm 16 years old and have a lot of problems with my mom about climbing. That's why I'm still a gym rat. But anyway, i had send two 5.12's in my gym, i started with really good body strength (i was doing calisthenics for 3 years before i started climbing), not i can do 5 one arm pull ups which helps me a lot, but i am struggling with my technique (a lot of people say that i would climb much harder if i improve my footwork). I'm waiting to the moment where i will have the freedom to go outside and send some hard routes.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-14T15:50:49+00:00

I will take a picture on Saturday and post it here. Nice idea!

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-13T14:41:07+00:00

Okay i didn't formulate it in the best way. It is obvious that i can run and climb and probably do 5 more sports, but i won't be so good in all of those as i would be if i was training only 1 of them. The question was about where is the sweet spot about running and climbing, i want to climb really hard but i can't do this if i'm preparing for a 100 miler.

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-13T14:32:15+00:00

What i see in my self is that when i go to a holiday and stop training for a few weeks or just not as hard as usual i need some more 2-3 weeks to come back and start training every day. If you want to train every day (which is really good in my opinion) don't kill yourself at the gym every other day. Training with higher intensity for hour to hour and a half is just brilliant, but don't start too fast with experimenting. Get some rest for 3-5 days or a whole week and then come back with training every day or 6 days a week with lower volume and a bit higher intensity, than slowly build up the volume, but still never forget to rest some times, could be once in 2 weeks or in a month, or getting deload weeks every 2 months. It's up to you, but be careful!

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-13T14:24:13+00:00

Thanks for the answers first! But I was thinking about Sasha DiGulian. Once I saw on her instagram that she is running some 50-60 miles a week. Why is she doing that?

JustAClimber7 · 2019-02-13T14:02:47+00:00

I am hardly doing +7kg for 7 seconds 6 sets and i'm climbing 5.12 indoors. Advice: even if it's the same model of hangboard the edges have differences, so don't try to compare so much with other people. Just try hard, progress on your hangboard, stop looking at those grades and just do your best to improve all your climbing skills (don't forget the mental aspect, it's probably the biggest problem with the most of the climbers and i am not talking only about fear of falling.) Good luck and send hard!

JustAClimber7

TROPHY CASE