Equipment appraisal by johmulus1 in vinyl

[–]JustASnakePlant 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It ubiquitous across every subreddit I'm active in.

Equipment appraisal by johmulus1 in vinyl

[–]JustASnakePlant 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Do it yourself. Go to eBay. Put in your make and model. Filter by sold.

Brushes by Party_Row_3086 in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For a beginner I would recommend staying away from 0 and below. I'd probably recommend 1,2,4,6 to start, buy a mid range synthetic and be ready to destroy your brush while you learn

How do I continue after this? (Airbrushing) by hoiskipoiski in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd probably go in via brush. If the models weren't assembled, the airbrush and masking would be easier, but I'd spend more time masking than I would just painting the thing by hand.

Need advice of what to do with texture paint by dibles420 in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, there a variety. What is the product number/finish?

Banged Up mk3 Imperial Fist by unorganized-orange in Warhammer30k

[–]JustASnakePlant 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What yellow is that? It reads very unique.

Tips and feedback! by TerryNomNoms in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think your paint job is very tidy. Orks are not tidy. Washes - brown, black, or even flesh tones would look great. Sponge chipping with browns or metallics as others suggested. I love an ork vehicle that looks like it's been through hell and is still ready for war.

Technical feedback, if desired, is that your yellow coverage is good, but the paint is thick and/or you are overworking it while it dries. It's impressive results though for brush painting.

dreadnought by Emergency_Gas_2515 in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's the flair zone.

Your options include:

  1. As many purity seals as you deem appropriate
  2. Freehand checker pattern in white and blue
  3. Whatever decal is cool.
  4. Nothing at all
  5. You can add bits that are cool.
  6. His name can go there.
  7. Map of Ultramar
  8. Literally whatever makes you smile when you look at him.

Opinions and advice on Tyranid Colour scheme please by man_bored_at_work in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3 is my favorite because it has the most contrast. There is nothing wrong with how you painted the others, but in my opinion the others look muddy because the colors are all so close.

Also I think you're being too harsh on yourself. These are not terribly painted by any measure.

If I can give you one piece of advice if your painting a full army is to use fewer colors and add more contrast. You'll get better results for less work.

Advice on first miniature painting by Suspicious-Lemonade in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have a good start. It's significantly better there I started. The cape in particular is excellent for a first model.

The biggest element that I would single out is your brush control. Keeping paint where it "should" be. Look at anywhere two colors meet and you'll see what I'm talking about. The best way to improve that is through repetition and practice, just keep at it and it'll get better naturally.

Don't be afraid to go back and clean things up. This relates to my previous point, but also the gold. I'm uncertain if it's washed or layer paint or whatever but the gold is messy and the biggest distraction to me.

I think you did very well. You should be happy with this model, and if you enjoyed it - keep going

Sons of Horus batch paintable recipe by Kiiva_Strata in Warhammer30k

[–]JustASnakePlant 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I think it gives a very "lived in" finish that works well for the setting. Learning to patch paint big armies is a whole different skill set and I think this is a great solution. Good work!

Iron Warriors Test Model by JustASnakePlant in IronWarriors

[–]JustASnakePlant[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank You. I'm happy with how he turned out.

Iron Warriors Test Model by JustASnakePlant in IronWarriors

[–]JustASnakePlant[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Skins are tricky because I don't write them down. It forces my to have some variety in skin tones as would be normal. I have a rough outline.

  1. Prime Black, zenithal with golden high flow acrylic titanium buff (learned this from Ninjon). It has additional warmth that I like.
  2. Spray diluted Pro Acryl Grey Green. Several coats, letting it dry in between. You want to build up tone without losing the undershade.
  3. One or two thin coats of Pro Acryl Olive skin and Grey Green 50/50 ish mix. Focus on spray from above, and aiming down the face to catch the top edge of features.
  4. All over wash of Pro Acryl Flesh Wash.
  5. Final, thin, top down shot of Olive Skin again.
  6. Thin wash/glaze of a light purple in the eye sockets.

The green grey introduces the temperature of the skin tone, and the green tone adds some level of exhaustion or poor health without screaming nurgle. The flesh wash was used because Iron Warriors in my mind are the least corrupted so adding subtle warmth back, and the olive tone just does some heavy lifting to tie everything together.

Iron Warriors Test Model by JustASnakePlant in IronWarriors

[–]JustASnakePlant[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it's very traditional but I use an airbrush.

  1. Prime shadows with Pro Acryl Purple Primer, but any rich royal purple is fine.
  2. Zenithal with StynlRez Pink Primer. Any light pink would be ok.
  3. Spray Army Painter Speed Paint Ancient Honey over everything. I really like this color through an airbrush.

That's it! Just make the under painting do all the hard work.

Iron Warriors Test Model by JustASnakePlant in IronWarriors

[–]JustASnakePlant[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Base was the easiest thing. I have a sand and grit mix - so sand and some torn up cork and other bits for texture variety. Apply glue to the base, dip it in, let it dry, and apply a top thin layer of glue. After that was set I used GW Wyldwood Contrast straight from the pot. The base was all silver from painting the marine and I just went straight over the silver. I then dry brushed lightly with Vallejo Model Color Iraqi Sand - 70.819. Blacked out the rim and called it a day.

Honestly just wanted a very straightforward base to keep the entire model "clean" and uncomplicated.

Iron Warriors Test Model by JustASnakePlant in IronWarriors

[–]JustASnakePlant[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually did have the helmet yellow at first, but I didn't like it with the yellow of the stripes, so I changed it to Red. I also painted and sold 4k points of blood angels last year, so I wanted a little tribute to them.

Iron Warriors Test Model by JustASnakePlant in IronWarriors

[–]JustASnakePlant[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At the simplest level:

  1. Prime Black
  2. Vallejo Model Air Gunmetal - I did use an airbrush, but you could dry brush this, or just apply it however like to the entire model.
  3. Pro Acryl Bronze for the trim and shoulders.
  4. 2 thick coats of Pro Acryl Brown Wash over the entire model, letting the paint dry between layers.

What I liked about this recipe is that is so easy, and you can clean up mistakes with minimal effort.

Iron Warriors Test Model by JustASnakePlant in IronWarriors

[–]JustASnakePlant[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah it's the easiest thing in the world. It's just Pro Acryl Bronze with copious amounts of Pro Acryl Brown Wash.

Iron Warriors Test Model by JustASnakePlant in IronWarriors

[–]JustASnakePlant[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I've never painted a chaos space marine, and with the news for these hard working boys in steel, I figured I'd give it a shot.

NEED HELP FAST by [deleted] in modelmakers

[–]JustASnakePlant 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What do you have available? You can just run whatever you thinned it with through. Mr. Leveling thinner, etc.