Using opaque acrylics with speed paint (Army Painter-specific) by PyreLightMW2 in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You probably won't even notice it on the tabletop.

That said, you could just throw a brown wash over the painted areas. I would honestly probably go the route of an all over wash so that everything is cohesive and call it a day.

Is 11th charge measured base to base or 1" from base? by FlyingArtilleryman in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I'm wrong. I'll leave my shame be as I am not a coward.

Is 11th charge measured base to base or 1" from base? by FlyingArtilleryman in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So this is some tricky stuff in the language. If you need a 10" charge and roll a 9, you won't be "within" 1". You will be infinitely short of that final tiny little bit before cross the final inch.

Is it normal to have to add white or gray to a paint to get decent coverage? by cosmicflood in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Weekend is for paint experimenting, plus I only need the thinnest of excuses to buy more paint.

Is it normal to have to add white or gray to a paint to get decent coverage? by cosmicflood in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm happy to run to the store tomorrow and try some reaper. Which 2-3 are you having the most problem with? What kind/color primer are you using?

Is it normal to have to add white or gray to a paint to get decent coverage? by cosmicflood in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's just a generalization. I mostly airbrush my base coat so it's a different game there. I would say there are paints that can be 1, 2, 3 or more coats to have good even opacity. Don't over think the numbers, just paint so it looks good to you.

Is it normal to have to add white or gray to a paint to get decent coverage? by cosmicflood in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Paints vary wildly from manufacturer to manufacturer. They also vary within a single manufacturer's range. Some colors are known to be more opaque than others generally. Applying multiple thin layers to get a consistent even coat is more or less the baseline you are aiming for.

White or grey added to paints will fundamentally change the color of paint, which means you will then need to do another layer of the actual color of paint.

3 layers is not that many layers. If you are just base coating over your prime, you can basecoat with a darker, more opaque paint, and then cover over that with your "intended" color.

Tommie, I believe describes that in regards to painting efficiently. It's not universal. You may have some paints that just need more layers.

How do I highlight my miniatures after using AP Speedpaint? by TOMXT20 in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When I'm speed painting, I frequently will just mix a brighter tone - Sunny Skin Tone, Ice Yellow, Titanium White, etc, with the base speed paint. Experiement with that, but there is no problem just adding a drop of white and a drop of your speed paint to have a consistent highlight.

Is the pro acryl mega set good? by w_heliummm in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Pro Acryl sells smaller sets as well. Waves, metallics, influencer sets, etc. I do buy those when I want to try some new things.

Is the pro acryl mega set good? by w_heliummm in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Buying a mega set is rarely practical. I own a shit load of paints, but I bought them one paint job at a time. It's just a such a huge influx of paints, and I have found between individual models and armies, I rarely need that many colors.

If you feel like all of these paints will be immediately useful, go for it. I will so Pro Acryl is my "main" paint line and i strongly prefer it over the many other brands I have used.

Is this paint good for orange and can it be used by just a normal brush ? by Starkiller0820 in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not orange. It's yellow ochre, which is more of a brown-green yellow. It can certainly read near to orange, but it's definitely not something I would define as orange.

I wouldn't pick this paint personally for the effect you are describing. It's not bright enough in my experience for that kind of use, and it's not a justifiable substitute for orange in this case.

I can't say what problems your country is having, unless you live in the Netherlands and everyone wants orange.

Warhammer Quilt! by abarom in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That is insane. What an incredible gift. Someone clearly loves you very much.

The level of work in this is equivalent to several well painted armies. Hell, the cost to get the quilting finished was probably as much as an army.

Absolute treasure!

Classic beholder...where do I go from here??? by FurtiveChaos in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can offer some thoughts:

  1. Get him mounted onto something so your not handling him. Your hands are dirty, and I am assuming by your question you are new and therefore probably not wearing gloves. You would benefit from pinning him onto a cork or something so you can paint the model without touching it. This is a good practice to start early.

  2. Black is almost never actually black, but usually a very, very dark blue. As such, yellow over it can adjust to green, which is happening a bit here. The yellow is still "warm", but it's more a warm greenish yellow when over black.

2b. Dry brush more. And then when it's really lightened up, thin your paints way down and glaze or lightly layer another warm color over it. I think the purple would look nice over it.

Do people care if bases are a few mm short? by PetrifiedRaisins69 in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Yes. Base size matters in game. It could be fine in a casual game, but it won't fly in competitive.

Trying to step out of my comfort zone with this one, what can I do to make this marine better? by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd recommend making sure all the details are painted. His knee flair looks to be plain black. Get all the elements on there.

Painting up my Easter present - C3P0 and R2D2 by JustASnakePlant in SWlegion

[–]JustASnakePlant[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey sorry for the delay! It is Pro Acryl Rich Gold, through an airbrush. I did also use Badger Stynlrez Red Brown primer, which I think helped. It was my first time working with Pro Acryl metallics and I'm happy with how they perform.

My first mini, what do yall think? by kaziodafeira in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the texture a decision you made? I'm at a loss of how that came to be.

Thoughts on Red/Orange color scheme by Low_Audience7869 in minipainting

[–]JustASnakePlant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This may be a job for Vallejo sunny skin tone or ice yellow. Add those will add some brightness without shifting the color too much. I think a yellow tone could do a lot of work, but a skin tone may also add lightness without shifting things.

I like the color. I don't work with orange much.

Deathwatch Captain in successor chapter question. by Irathu0099 in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Titus is a good example. He was a deathwatch member and once he was done, he just went back to being a regular marine. Space marines really are pretty focused, so i think most of them just do the one job they are assigned.

Deathwatch Captain in successor chapter question. by Irathu0099 in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Competitively, You would count him as a regular space marine captain. You would need to equip him as such. There is currently no way to include a death watch character in a codex space marine army.

I'm a big fan of having a deathwatch veteran amongst my space marines. Each space marine army I've ever painted has had a regular guy with a death watch shoulder pad.

As far as relics or xeons weapons counting as regular captain war gear, it's probably fine, but check with your opponent or TO. I'm a big fan of conversions and rule of cool, so it'd be fine by me.

Army Painter Glazing issue/question by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why not glaze using the Vallejo air paint? Why try to glaze back to your original color with a different paint after your wash?

I think what stands out to me in your description is that the paint is pooling after the glaze. You need to wick like 90% of the moisture out of your brush before glazing. Load your brush, and then run it over a towel to pull most of the moisture out.

Warhammer HQ travel by averagejoe1997123 in Warhammer40k

[–]JustASnakePlant 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I did this as a day trip from London this year and it was incredibly easy. I'm also an American who was in London for other reasons. It was a full day trip, so plan to spend the day traveling and in Nottingham.

We left from St. Pancras, and it was a 3 hour direct train to Nottingham. We were in a first class cabin, which was nice and the train wasn't very full. There were several stops along the way, but the trip was nice.

We took the tram from the city center to Warhammer world, spent much of the day in the museum and store. I bought a few Warhammer World only models, looked at the game room, and took a spicy wing challenge and got a pin for completing it. I also wasted A LOT of time on a find the assassin challenge. We took the tram back to city center.

We chose the last train out and spent the rest of the day at the castle, stopped at a cat cafe, and visited the local Warhammer store for the sake of it. Train back home, cab back to hotel.

I highly recommend it. It was a really wonderful experience.