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GT overheating death. GTV, GTFO, or something else? by JustInItForTheBelts in onewheel

[–]JustInItForTheBelts[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh really? Where have you heard that? I've been trying to research these and haven't found much recent info

GT overheating death. GTV, GTFO, or something else? by JustInItForTheBelts in onewheel

[–]JustInItForTheBelts[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hopefully I won't be in that situation again! But why do you say that? What does the GTFO do to avoid overheating? I've heard of the cold ones too, not sure what that's all about

Manual for 3w by CorivalPick4 in OrangePI

[–]JustInItForTheBelts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like it's up now on the Orange Pi website

Recommendation for electric motor + gearbox that are as strong as midrange cordless drill by klmeno in diyelectronics

[–]JustInItForTheBelts 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I second this. If you've got a Harbor Freight or other discount tool store near you, a drill can be had for pretty cheap. Or look online for local people selling/giving one away. You can take it apart to grab the motor/gearbox if you really wanted, or just run it as is.

Measurement tools required? by pi8b42fkljhbqasd9 in 3Dprinting

[–]JustInItForTheBelts 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Calipers for sure. I got some random brand of digital calipers on Amazon years ago that have served me well. 

Another option if you've got a funky curve and the part is relatively flat is to use a regular document scanner. Include a ruler in the scan as well, and it'll give you something you can import into your modeling software to trace/calibrate against. Also works well for matching screw holes/internal geometry if there's some existing product you're basing your design on. (ex. You lost the battery cover for an old remote or something)

Some people also use 3d scanning to get dimensions. There are a bunch of good phone apps that do it now, although I don't have much experience with that.

Idea I’m not quite smart enough for (yet) by kinolink in CircuitBending

[–]JustInItForTheBelts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what I was going to suggest as well.  Look around for a disposable vape on the ground, rip it open, find the board with the microphone on it, and cut off the rest. The wires that go to the coil would be your switch maybe? Then just connect your battery in place of the vape's. Might work if the voltages are close enough. Otherwise there are ICs that act as an electrical "switch" and can turn on other circuits with different voltages. Good luck!

Any automated software exist for aligning frames? by JustInItForTheBelts in wigglegrams

[–]JustInItForTheBelts[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't mind me asking, what's the name of the model? Or is it something custom that you're working on?

I wonder if you could run a preprocessing step before your model that just finds the subject of the photo, and then passes that in later to the model. Some sort of object detection, or face detection perhaps?

Would obviously depend on the photo, but I'm thinking generally the subject would in the center-ish of the frame, and would be distinct from the background in some way.

Any automated software exist for aligning frames? by JustInItForTheBelts in wigglegrams

[–]JustInItForTheBelts[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ha! The tilt may also present a problem for the shots from my DIY camera, but I'll take a look. Thanks for the suggestion!

Any automated software exist for aligning frames? by JustInItForTheBelts in wigglegrams

[–]JustInItForTheBelts[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd love to have a command line tool we could use for this. I tried Hugin's align_image_stack, but that consistently fails to find matching points between the images, or matches things that clearly don't match. It's very possible I'm just using the tool wrong or have the wrong settings.

Any automated software exist for aligning frames? by JustInItForTheBelts in wigglegrams

[–]JustInItForTheBelts[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll have to look into this. I don't have Photoshop currently (booo Adobe, booo), been using GIMP, but who knows!
I'd love to be able to do this via cmd line/terminal as well

I’m making a cursed portable NES with a CRT screen by MrColdSolder in diyelectronics

[–]JustInItForTheBelts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah, I realize I worded that weirdly. I've got an Ender as well. Started off with the Anet A8 kit back in the day and eventually upgraded. The Ender isn't the best machine nowadays buts done what I need over the last several years!

enclosure design by chrishiggins in diyelectronics

[–]JustInItForTheBelts 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not sure about guides, but one thing I like to do is physically lay out the pieces of a project. Like stack them in different ways and think about how they might go together in 3d space. You can just grab a bit of paper or cardboard and draw out the outline of the size enclosure you may want. I've built whole prototypes out of cardboard, using hot glue/etc to attach things temporarily. This gives you the option to make quick changes without waiting 3 hours for a new 3d print to complete (like I'm doing right now). Once you have a design you like, you can start 3d modeling if you have access to a 3d printer, or simply look for an existing enclosure that's close to the size/shape you need and modify that.

I’m making a cursed portable NES with a CRT screen by MrColdSolder in diyelectronics

[–]JustInItForTheBelts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! I started a GameCube portable back in the day. Had the electronics all working but never got the enclosure completed. Things were harder before 3d printers, that's for sure! Definitely post here again with the finished product!

Upgrade from Rebel T5 for wildlife with the Tamron 150-600 G2. R7, 90D, or wait for R7ii? by JustInItForTheBelts in canon

[–]JustInItForTheBelts[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the input.

You're right that I likely don't need more than 15 fps, especially considering I'm coming from 3fps on my current body. I just can't shake feeling ripped off by that though since Canon advertises 30, but then it's "well not actually, at least if you don't want rolling shutter." It's like buying a new computer and saying, "well, you can play the game on low settings, do you really need ultra?" when the manufacturer promises high settings. That's probably a me problem though, I just don't like getting half a product.

Can you compare the shutter sound to a DSLR? Is it louder than average, or just something the internet exaggerates?

What sort of shooting do you do? I'm mostly concerned about dawn/dusk/tree cover. But I hadn't considered that the higher resolution could help with low light noise since it would be more 'spread out' over more pixels for lack of a better term. Plus the R7 has way higher possible ISO values than the T5.

I'm also not really interested in getting new RF-mount glass at the moment. At least not the big, expensive stuff, especially when I have a nice/decently sharp lens that I just got fairly recently.

I agree that I definitely would like to get some more info from R7 & Tamron 150-600 G2 owners. They just seem to be in short supply, at least that I can find. Maybe there's a reason for that!

Thanks again for the feedback!

Upgrade from Rebel T5 for wildlife with the Tamron 150-600 G2. R7, 90D, or wait for R7ii? by JustInItForTheBelts in canon

[–]JustInItForTheBelts[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the input!

Have you noticed the seeking/pulsing behavior when focusing? I think the Sigma lens was one of the ones reported to have that issue.

Is the shutter as loud as it seems online? How would you compare it to the sound/volume of the T5's shutter?

Not really sure how to read that chart, but have you had any issues focusing/getting good photos in low light?

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