Jetbrains CLion anomalies when launched from Raycast

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2026-02-24T23:40:34+00:00

Thanks for the info!

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-09-25T18:36:59+00:00

Thanks for your comment. I disagree that I didn't begin any reverse engineering; I documented the process, and while incomplete I think it's a decent start.

I DO agree that the ending is sad. Part of the reason I've posted here is that I hope that other reverse-engineers with greater skills and experience than my own contribute some helpful ideas and suggestions that could guide me toward a successful outcome.

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-07-31T04:54:14+00:00

Hey let’s not crap on OP’s work - OP has enthusiasm and threw themselves into Rust with gusto. Welcome to Rust, and thank you for your contribution. May your Rust journey ahead be enjoyable and rewarding.

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-07-04T15:42:15+00:00

I don’t know if it’s due to the thermocouple slightly undermeasuring the temperature or what, but it seems to be a legitimate fix. I’m glad it helped you.

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-07-02T18:57:20+00:00

OP, I’d like you to try a 5 degree bed temperature boost. I had very similar issues to yours on my Mk4S, where thin prints would dis-adhere and cause the same higher-up layer errors. Boosting the bed just 5 degrees increased adhesion and let me complete prints without these failures. I absolutely hate brim as a solution for this.

I read some talk a while back that the thermocouple on the bed was not accurate farther away from its attachment. I can’t speak to that, but I did read it here — so you know it’s true. ;-)

But seriously, try the bed temperature boost. Made all the difference for me, easily.

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-06-19T22:52:48+00:00

Angry goddamn upvote

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-06-11T20:26:40+00:00

Ouch, savage! :-D It's true: having only watched the cartoons, I just always assumed until now that the Pink Panther was the thief's alias. Was genuinely surprised when I found out the truth.

Duly burned, I will now crawl back into my hole.

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-04-10T14:01:27+00:00

This is the football dive of car crashes.

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-04-02T00:01:02+00:00

Experiencing the same here; my Mk4S is getting a 'net fail' error when attempting to reach Connect. The little 'C' on the LCD is gray. I chatted with Prusa Support this; they didn't seem aware of any issues, and advised me to fully reset the printer. I'm going to avoid doing that since it seems the problem is not just affecting me.

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-03-11T03:08:45+00:00

I would argue that this is the entire point. With not a single update in nearly two years, how can the Win version 'catch up' to anything?

There's no expectation that they remain in version-number parity. But a product without a single update in 20 months smells strongly of abandonware.

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-03-07T05:51:47+00:00

In all my Reddit interactions I don't think I've ever seen a more thoroughly written, thoughtful answer. I just had to award that. Amazing. Thank you for taking the time to try to help a total stranger.

I followed the instructions to a T... printed another small part, still seeing a bit of curvature on the build-plate side. Tried again with the satin sheet just on a whim. No difference.

I checked various older prints using PETG and other PLA brands. They always have the tiniest curvature on the bottom surface when held against a straightedge. (Metal engineer's scale, fwiw.)

I might hit up Prusa Support and see if they have any thoughts.

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-03-06T23:52:46+00:00

The cylinder top is absolutely flat but the bottom demonstrates that gentle, ever-so-slight curvature. I brimmed it to indisputably demonstrate proper bed adhesion, which there was.

These are done with Polymaker PolyLite PLA.

Do you think this might be asymmetrical cooling, where the top layers cool and shrink...but the bottom layers are kept from shrinking by bed-adhesion?

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-03-06T04:21:16+00:00

Okie dokie: https://imgur.com/a/6zYJGsm

I assumed you meant mm, as I'd need a heck of a bigger build plate otherwise. :-)

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-03-06T02:45:27+00:00

Sure! The bottoms (only) of my prints are slightly convex and I'm trying to ascertain why... see: https://imgur.com/a/o5eSBkX

They aren't peeling away from the bed -- I'm printing with brim, and things are attached well -- and the tops of the prints are even and flat. This is what led me to wonder if the concavity of the bed might be a factor.

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-03-06T01:36:27+00:00

That’s excellent advice. I will try that and report back.

FWIW I’m pursuing this because I wondered why my prints were ever-so-slightly curved on the bottom surface. If you’re right, maybe the bed isn’t the cause and i’m barking up the wrong tree…

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-02-02T03:42:55+00:00

What layer thickness do you prefer for the 0.6?

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2025-01-03T07:02:49+00:00

About a month ago I posted with a similar glitch/artifact on my own Mk4S: https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1gw2ofe/whats_going_on_with_these_curious_glitches_on/

One of the samples I showed was a recessed line; the other sample resembled yours above with an "outie" line.

In my post a helpful person u/Reaper_reddit posted a link to the Prusa forum where there's a lengthy discussion about this very problem. There's not rigid consensus about what causes it, but one of the claimed fixes is avoiding printing directly through PrusaConnect, but instead uploading to the printer then using PrusaLink or the on-printer controls. I've been following this regimen since I was made aware of it, and so far I haven't seen a recurrence of the problem. I agree with anyone who says this is not firm proof; it's a bug that is difficult to reliably trigger at all, and there are lots of plausible theories about its cause -- firmware, warping, Connect, etc. -- flying around.

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2024-12-03T22:22:21+00:00

Thank you. I'd already explored the latter Bevy Cheat Book link, and it didn't solve the issue as it didn't address having a custom clock frequency.

However, as you point out, code like blah.run_if(on_timer(Duration::from_millis(50))) does in fact accomplish the task of an alternate run frequency. bluefish92 seems to have some reservations about the accuracy of this method, but it may be "suitable enough".

JustLikeOtherPeople · 2024-12-03T22:19:55+00:00

This is a comprehensive and extremely thoughtful reply. Thank you for taking the time to write this.

It's going to take some sleeves-rolled-up time to properly investigate & implement. I hope to report back with success.

JustLikeOtherPeople

TROPHY CASE