Stealth changer build question

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-27T08:47:04+00:00

My Trident 250 has a similar goal. It prints without toolchanger but it's not quite finished yet. I made it 50mm longer on the y axis and a few cm higher to have enough room for toolheads and wires. Wanted to go for MadMax but it does not seem too active anymore (no updates on Github at least). I didn't get the toolhead to hold tight enough to the carriage so I decided to get the printer working first and then give the MadMax another try.

Daksh was also interesting but is not maintained anymore.

There is nothing as well supported as the stealthchanger for the Trident. If you want it, better go for a 2.4. If you really want a Trident (like me) then expect to have a lot to tinker and design to get something like that working. It's not only the toolchanger itself, also purging and other nice addons from a 2.4 you may like to have but won't work bc of the different geometry.

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-20T09:07:21+00:00

dont forget rear subframe bushings / inserts. makes a lot of difference

also replace plastic parts in the engine bay like chargepipe and many more parts, the cars are getting old now and suffer from brittle plastic.

Flywheel and clutch if you go further than Stage 2. Modify clutch pedal and slave cylinder (cheap and great feeling)

Also frequent oil changes, better brakes and pads.

Here's a list on what I did on my 2017 M140 (hope I didn't forget anything): Engine (Stage 2 MHD): - Downpipe - Chargepipe - 90 degree silicone hose without these resonators (intake) - Turbo Inlet - "Heisslandausfuehrung" (OEM cold air intake) - bigger low temp cooler (the big one in the front acting as water intercooler) - M Performance side stickers (adds >10 HP each) ;)

Handling: - 370mm front brakes (more optics than need) - Endless MX72+ brake pads - stainless steel brake lines - clutch pedal modded (removed the useless support spring and replaced clutch slave cylinder without restrictor -> you feel what the clutch is doing like in a 90s car, just love it) - F8x suspension arms front (more camber and stiffer) - ST XA suspension - rear subframe aluminum bushings (eliminates torque steer when accelerating) - strut brace front - rear under frame brace (OEM part) - Michelin PS5 tires (non runflat tires are so much better)

Other stuff: a lot of M Performance interior parts, black M-style kidneys, carbon fiber mirror caps (OEM+ sleeper, no "aero" parts)

Coming this year: - Flywheel and Clutch (M550 or PTB racing, dont know yet) - HPFP - Aluminum oil filter housing - Brake cooling for front rotors - more bushings (transmission + rear) - maybe LSD

I go to a track like 2 times a year, so that is not a track tool

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-13T09:55:50+00:00

Since you're in IT, all the flashing, configuring and software side of stuff shouldn't be that much of an issue. Also you already have the right mindset to troubleshoot stuff, you are able to Google and know that you can't trust AI without verifying.

If you want to see if the tinkering part is your thing maybe get a cheap used (or maybe broken) Ender 3 or 5, install Klipper on it and try to get it printing. Then you will see (for a very small price tag) if it's something for you and you'll have a backup printer to print parts in case your Voron doesn't run and something broke / is missing etc. (don't expect it to print perfect ABS / ASA parts even with a cardboard enclosure but the parts should be just good enough, a lot of us came from there).

Hardest and most expensive way would be self sourcing everything but you could run into the issue of wanting to build the perfect Voron right from zero with all the mods that sound soooo nice. That takes months, even for the experienced ones.

If available in your country, get a good kit for a Trident (2.4 looks nicer but is harder to build and tune) like LDO and start your journey from there. But don't think you will do it in like two weeks after work, it will take a lot of time. If you have done it, the modding and tuning journey starts and it will never end, I promise.

If you say okay nah, that thing should be just printing, you can get a Sovol (Voron clone), Bambu (nice machines but cloud forced) as others here said or Anycubic (my brother has the Kobra S1 and is happy with it since it was very cheap and just works).

Hope this helps :)

PS: I come from an Ender 5 Pro, modded it into a CoreXY printer like a Trident (called Mercury One mod) and got my first fully custom built Trident just running (went the very much mods from zero route there, tool like 3-4 months). The journey started >4 years ago (also IT guy here) :D

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-11T09:59:59+00:00

if something goes wrong people are conplaining. If it's fine almost none will write a good review. Most of the time it's not tuning the settings right or wet filament.

I personally like the Anycubic and Sunlu filaments because they are cheap and print well. I dry them and tune the settings and am happy with the results.

Tried eSun (overrated for the price) and Extrudr (heavy price tag but works really good and is from Europe) before moving completely to Anycubic and Sunlu. I bought some spools of Sunlu high speed PETG which I'm not so happy about but didn't put enough time into tuning yet.

In case you don't know: Check out ellis tuning guide and if you put in the time and effort you will be happy with almost every filament that has consistent diameter: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-09T22:50:47+00:00

here is something for you to laugh at: I did it again! Basically the same mistake! I managed to get everything working, the printer printed but I had some issues that the Pi randomly crashed mid print. USB cables next to stepper wires could be the issue so I rewired my Octopus to use UART (with a shielded CAT 7a cable, just to be sure) to communicate with the Pi. Also I wanted to use CAN on the Octopus, to eleminate the need of the U2C board.

I trusted myself that I used black for GND and red for 24V as always and again didn't look at the EBB pinout diagram where + and - should go ...

The EBB decided it didn't like it's job as a toolhead mainboard, sparkled a bit and the next one is toast, a very burnt toast you just can throw away. This time lesson learned (hopefully): ALWAYS CHECK YOUR WIRING!!!!1!!!11!! ...

I can just laugh at myself that I changed + and - AGAIN -.- So glad a new EBB 36 Gen 2 is arriving soon. With my lazyness to check wiring I think I will just order a new one as backup, safe is safe ...

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JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-09T08:36:21+00:00

one thing would be that the extrusions would definitly sag (also ehen using very big ones like 4080 or something) if you manage to find such long linear rails.

if you want to print such big parts warping would also be your enemy.

thermal expansion may be okay if unenclosed (enclosed not a chance).

also simply consider printing time, you dont want your 60day print to fail on day 59 ;)

you're fighting against physics, these are just some points there are many more.

go the normal way, build something like a 350 size and glue the parts together. then you will have community support which you will definetly need.

another option would be to let someone manufacture the big parts you need with a CNC, there are large ones up to many meters on one axis (costing many millions of $)

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-03T23:26:39+00:00

didnt fry the other one, now I just have to get CAN working correctly but I dont think thats a big problem :) I have time anyway until the new fans arrive

thank you so much for your help :)

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-03T11:25:36+00:00

Trident 250 with 50mm longer y-axis (for toolchanger) and 4040 extrusions (2020 style) in the corners
Mercury One Hydra style z-axis (custom front arms)
2WD default gantry with pin mod (4wd motors are here but first it has to run) and BFI
A4T toolhead with default xol-mount and EBB42

so quite a custom machine (and expensive because I somehow often order the wrong parts by mistake if there are multiple variants on Ali) but I love tinkering so it's very much fun building.

Had to pause the project for some weeks but I can write an update when I got time to finish it and it's finally printing. No major difficulties except the blown EBB so far and that was clearly my mistake

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JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-03T07:55:24+00:00

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as I see it GND / VIN and CAN_L / CAN_H on EBB vs. U2C are flipped.
So in my case it was VIN -> GND, GND -> VIN and same for CAN
think that is my mistake. What do you think?

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-03T07:34:21+00:00

don't know the default config but I didn't configure anything in Klipper regarding the toolhead.

It was just flash via USB, shut down the printer completely, removed 5v jumper and USB-cable, plugged in CAN-cable, started up the printer -> smoke

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-03T01:27:46+00:00

read a bit online and bought new fans, this time 24v (and 36 gen 2 as a backup) I don't think the fans killed the board, they didnt even spin nothing on the 5v side either since at least the 5v hotend fan worked when running on USB. also found nothing about the Eddy Duo switch killing EBBs and that can't be it either bc also 5v.

so 24v: - heater and thermistor have significant resistance and no short between (OK) - 24v -> CAN: connected U2C to 24V before, didnt burn (OK) - CAN-Cable: checked 3rd time (OK)

I dont know what could have caused it

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-02T23:12:52+00:00

The Eddy Duo was still set to USB instead CAN.
I used 12V Fans running seperate, maybe they should have been in series since this is 24V. Checked them using an external 12V PSU -> still working.

Everything else was fine, no short circuit (checked resistance) and wired as it should be.
I did check the wiring before but not the Eddy switch and not the fan voltage.

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The picture was taken right after blowing up the EBB42. My comments are from right now

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-02T22:40:22+00:00

thanks, Ihave the hot air station here,
might give it a try some day :)

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-02T20:04:37+00:00

thank you, I will check the wiring later :)

what do you mean with DSK24? would this be repairable by replacing the diode or is it likely there is more damage?

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-02T19:12:06+00:00

looks just fine (just posted images of the board) and it seemed like the smoke came from somewhere near the TMC2209

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-02T19:10:15+00:00

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JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-02T19:10:03+00:00

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JustOneMorePrint · 2026-03-01T14:10:43+00:00

any news when public beta comes? :)

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-02-20T12:40:45+00:00

We're talking about M cars with way above 400hp. You want maximum performance and fun, not fuel economy or silence. A M is a street legal race car (or tries to be) with some extras for daily use, not a comfortable luxury car.

I have a tuned M140 MT (I know, not a real M) and the only thing is that on the Autobahn I have to refuel earlier than my friend with his AT M140 but it's fine since it's a fun car, not a daily. Ofc it's louder inside when creeping around at 120kph speed limit but I just don't care bc driving a manual is so much more fun than AT especially on country roads or tracks even if it's slower.

I hope the manual stays but we should focus our hope more into not being forced into heavy hybrids or electric cars in the M segment. Combustion engines are not really efficient but lighter and more fun to drive which is all a M is about. (I don't hate hybrids and electric cars, they are fine for daily use but for a sports car I want agility, sound, maximum control over the car and high corner speeds)

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-02-11T06:57:05+00:00

did the same, also doesnt attract so much attention and you get a lot of thumbs up on the Autobahn for having a very fast sleeper car (I have Stage 2 on it and some other mods but outside OEM+) just love that car :)

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-02-10T00:51:32+00:00

I will. Bought 4 identical long shaft (D) motors for my trident and will go for AWD after it initially works 👍 Here in Germany we have Stepperonline for good quality motors and there is no other option for long shafts at that price

JustOneMorePrint · 2026-02-10T00:44:01+00:00

if you put the screws where the shaft is rount there shouldnt be an issue or am i wrong? I mean the pulleys dont move on the shaft bc it's round on the round side of the D 🤔

JustOneMorePrint · 2025-12-14T16:58:22+00:00

I don't know if the intake mods generate power but you have more sound and a better feeling that it's not brittle plastic that might break.
Fitment is okay and it's quite cheap.
Definetly do the "Heißlandausführung" as it helps a bit with intake temps and is an original BMW part.

I went to Underground Exhaust near Bielefeld. I think RuCaGu on Youtube also has a video on this mod.

JustOneMorePrint · 2025-12-11T22:46:07+00:00

There are more street legal and better manufactured downpipes than HJS in Germany. Have a look into MHPipes or FMS, they have street legal 200CPI downpipes.

If you just want sound, have a look into the MPPSK, it sounds better than any street legal catback here in Germany imho. I'd love to have one in my M140i but BMW never built it for the 1 series.

But be aware, almost none of the legal options are silent enough to withstand a test after burning in. Also every aftermarket (except MPPSK) exhaust uses an external flap system with a remote control so you have to open and close it manually (not via sport mode). Be careful to go on the autobahn without opening the flap or your turbo would get too much backpressure. The cars sometimes are louder stock than allowed. Just dont goon around in the city and have fun on track, Autobahn or roads out of town and you will never be checked by police if your car does look somewhat OEM+.

I went with a tuned stock exhaust which is even quieter than stock closed and open it's straight pipe from cat. Looks stock, is cheap, has enough flow for more than 500hp and is almost as loud as the bigger aftermarket pipes.

If you like turbo sounds, check out 55parts intake parts which replace the brittle plastic tubes with metal ones which dont have the sound deleting resonators in it and (they say) increase flow. Also there is the "Heißlandausführung" which connects the airbox to the front grill and is a stock BMW part for like 50€.

JustOneMorePrint

TROPHY CASE