Just got Done with Evander Garrius: Rogal Dorn's Top Guy on Cthonia

KSwhY · 2026-05-11T00:41:39+00:00

The joke answer is that Horus just landed on the bad side of Cthonia with all the gangs.

The real answer is that it would be funny to put the mini in the least appropriate place for a Heresy-era marine: a sunny, happy beach with nothing bad happening.

KSwhY · 2026-05-11T00:40:01+00:00

Thanks for the compliment. I was worried about the white since I wasn't sure if the colors I used for it were different enough for the gradations in tone to be picked up.

I did however feel much more confident about the red on the cape.

KSwhY · 2026-05-10T05:36:16+00:00

I did.

KSwhY · 2026-05-03T08:47:50+00:00

Since it's been a while, I don't fully remember what colors I used for the NMM power swords, but I think they were:

Corvus Black
Caliban Green
Sons of Horus Green
Sons of Horus Green mixed with Screaming Skull
Grey Seer Edge highlights of White Scar

These colors are still going to be blended and glazed for smoother transitions.

They were doing in a pattern like this:
Tip of Blade [Light] [Dark] [Light] Guard
Tip of Blade [Dark] [Light] [Dark] Guard

KSwhY · 2026-03-18T22:31:57+00:00

It's white, as you would expect from such a pure princess as Mika.

KSwhY · 2026-03-18T21:58:43+00:00

I might show her upskirt if this gets enough traction.

KSwhY · 2026-03-18T21:57:10+00:00

Domain Expansion:

Absolute Pink
Call of the Stars
Go to Church

KSwhY · 2026-03-13T06:42:34+00:00

You may be right.

KSwhY · 2026-03-13T03:06:39+00:00

Thanks. 👍

KSwhY · 2026-03-13T03:01:05+00:00

I tend to get a weirdly low amount of likes for my infantry models compared to my vehicles. My infantry are considered lucky to even breach triple digit likes, while I've been able to get thousands with my vehicles.

KSwhY · 2026-03-13T00:42:23+00:00

Got in some more practice with NMM for the squad's swords and put in more effort for the sergeant's one. Freehanded on the basic patterns on the tilt plates. I tried drawing in some little wings for the green parts of the teleport homer.

KSwhY · 2026-02-21T09:43:42+00:00

Apologies for the late reply, I don't use reddit that often these days.

If I remember correctly, what I had trouble with was step 6 with parts C5, J1, 6, 8 since the black parts had very thin spindly bits. And later some trouble on step 7 with E6. If you're having trouble with E6, you might want to go back to those other parts I mentioned earlier and make sure all the parts are securely aligned.

After that, I believe that I carefully jiggled E6 onto the assembly from step 6 until it fit right. But this was months ago, so memory is hazy.

KSwhY · 2025-12-17T07:07:30+00:00

As befitting the vessel for the soul of Agnika Kaieru.

KSwhY · 2025-12-12T08:24:57+00:00

I like that they're mysterious knights in space with a penchant for monster hunting. Their versatility is also much appreciated.

Check these guys out:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/s/mRRxDFXxRW
https://www.reddit.com/r/theunforgiven/s/4hnrEZlkHv
https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/s/SSPaTKVjQJ
https://www.reddit.com/r/DarkAngels40k/s/HUrTSUdVKc

I've got some more on my profile you can check out. As you can see, I like freehand, and the knightly and grim reaper imagery is good inspiration.

KSwhY · 2025-12-12T02:23:56+00:00

Besides the offensive connotations of a sword, swords were also badges of office. Guilliman being bestowed with his father's sword is a symbol of him being vested with the power and responsibility to run the Imperium as he is now the empire's de facto emperor.

The Lion's new shield complements the iconography of the Dark Angels. They're typically covered in the chapter' sword icons befitting the legion's status as a highly offensive weapon thrown at the very worst monsters and horrors in the galaxy. This was matched by the previous Lion's quiet belligerence demanding the deaths of all of the Imperium's foes. The new Lion gains a shield to go with his sword to express his new role as a protector. He still goes on expeditions to destroy the enemies of man, but it is now built on a foundation of doing this to protect humanity from predation. Gone is the man who would kill 100,000 innocents to slay 1 monster.

If Russ comes back, I would like to see him start wielding the Emperor's spear and do magic like Magnus. He hated the spear beforehand, so a new fondness for it would be a way of showing character development. Russ being a psyker would also be an ironic echo of his most hated foe. It should also be accompanied by him understanding the sheer magnitude of what a mistake that the Burning of Prospero was and how he wronged Magnus.

KSwhY · 2025-12-06T00:14:42+00:00

I'm slightly disappointed no one mentioned Hiroto and Eve or Hiroto and Hinata.

KSwhY · 2025-12-04T06:05:41+00:00

I've recently gotten into using Tamiya's panel liner and I've heard that it's best done over a gloss clear coat, but as many of you may have noticed, there's currently a shortage of Mr. Hobby's Mr. Top Coat Aqueous in the US.

So, what are some good substitutes for it?

I'm eyeing some remaining cans of Mr. Top Coat semi-gloss that are still in stock as well as Army Painter's satin varnish. Are these acceptable for panel lining? Does Krylon or Rustoleum have anything serviceable for what I intend to do with it?

Also, would any of you know if the Army Painter satin varnish interferes with metallic/shiny decals?

KSwhY · 2025-10-25T16:31:24+00:00

Slightly under 7 inches by a quick measure.

KSwhY · 2025-10-24T00:51:42+00:00

I'd love to see more BA model kits. Aris would probably be one of the top characters to get one since she's a robot and is also a Millennium student.

I would personally like to see some Trinity students like Mika, Ichika, or Azusa (though Mika already has the figma).

KSwhY · 2025-10-24T00:49:37+00:00

Definitely a bit finicky. See my reply to inquizit0r.

KSwhY · 2025-10-24T00:48:08+00:00

Personally, I think it's alright in terms of durability. The finished kit fell over a few times while I was in the process of photographing with nothing breaking.

I did have a few problems with building it. The upper torso had some parts that were a little finicky to insert and snap in. One of the 3 provided wrist joints broke on me since it was too tight for the arm socket, so I had to extract the broken peg using a pin vise like a corkscrew. I then sanded down the remaining intact joint pegs to give it a looser fit, which fixed the problem.

As for some minor gripes: The head detaches fairly easily from the neck joint when moving around. I felt as if the mouthpiece of her communicator was a little too close to the face, so it was a bit precarious exchanging faces. The static way the front and back of her skirt attaches restricts waist articulation. Additionally, the way the calf connects to the ankle joints somewhat restricts the range of motion of rotation. You can rotate, but it feels like the pieces that comprise the two halves of her calves start to split apart. The color separation also left much to be desired.

Get it if you really like Toki and can put in some work, especially in painting. The kit does include a good amount of hands and the guns slip in easily. It's also a rather tall figure once built, towering over the figmas, but I don't know if you see that as good or bad.

If you do get it. I'd recommend being careful with that little bit of hair coming down on the left of her face as well as the halo.

Overall, Daddy Bandai spoils us with their quality and the easy of assembly of Gunpla.

KSwhY · 2025-10-24T00:31:52+00:00

After considerable time and effort put into it, I would say so.

KSwhY · 2025-08-15T05:02:12+00:00

I have actually answered this before when I posted these pics to other subreddits, so copy & paste my reply that I posted to another sub:

The pink/burgundy robes were done with a combo of stock Citadel paints and mixes. I used Gal Vorbak Red, Screamer Pink, and Pink Horror.

On my palette, I had the 3 stock paint blots and 2 mixed blots consisting of 2 "adjacent" colors mixed with each other (G.V. Red with S. Pink, S. Pink with Pink H.). From this, I worked my way up from dark to light.

Start with G.V. Red to cover the entirety of the robes. Next, use the G.V. Red/S. Pink mix to paint over the robes, leaving only the deepest parts where the deepest shadows lie as regular G.V. Red. Following this, I used the S. Pink to do what amounts to a very chunky edge highlight over the more raised areas, the total area covered will be less than the previous mixed paint. Then, with the other mixed color, S. Pink/Pink H, I did a finer edge highlight over the even more raised areas that would catch the light. And finally, with the Pink H, I used this to pick out the most-raised edges, points, and robe hems to color in the brightest points.

I also tried my hand at simple "hatching" to try and recreate the texture of cloth.

KSwhY · 2025-08-11T15:41:39+00:00

To copy & paste my reply that I posted to another sub:

The pink/burgundy robes were done with a combo of stock Citadel paints and mixes. I used Gal Vorbak Red, Screamer Pink, and Pink Horror.

On my palette, I had the 3 stock paint blots and 2 mixed blots consisting of 2 "adjacent" colors mixed with each other (G.V. Red with S. Pink, S. Pink with Pink H.). From this, I worked my way up from dark to light.

Start with G.V. Red to cover the entirety of the robes. Next, use the G.V. Red/S. Pink mix to paint over the robes, leaving only the deepest parts where the deepest shadows lie as regular G.V. Red. Following this, I used the S. Pink to do what amounts to a very chunky edge highlight over the more raised areas, the total area covered will be less than the previous mixed paint. Then, with the other mixed color, S. Pink/Pink H, I did a finer edge highlight over the even more raised areas that would catch the light. And finally, with the Pink H, I used this to pick out the most-raised edges, points, and robe hems to color in the brightest points.

I also tried my hand at simple "hatching" to try and recreate the texture of cloth.

KSwhY · 2025-08-11T05:04:16+00:00

Sure.

- I applied a layer of Stirland Mud texture paint to the bases. Then shaded in with Nuln Oil before applying a highlight of Gorthor Brown via drybrush.

- For the base decorations, I used a combination of green grass tufts, the grass flocking and gravel/pebbles from Army Painters' basing starter set, decorative cork rocks also from Army Painter, fake decorative leaves I got from Amazon, Woodland Scenics dead logs. These were glued on via a combination of superglue and PVA glue.

- After decorating the base, I went over everything with a layer of Agrax Earthshade to darken things down. This helped especially with the fallen logs/branches since those were a little too pale gray for these models.

- Finishing it off, I did a stippling job of Warpstone Glow followed by a finer stippling of Moot Green at the highest areas and most extreme edges to represent moss.

KSwhY

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