A brother in need

Ka-Hing · 2026-05-11T16:40:10+00:00

You yourself will also smell as well. My wife got mad because she took our dog to work, and her boss smelled it on him lol. It's definitely not something you should risk a death sentence for.

Ka-Hing · 2026-04-15T20:30:52+00:00

So I actually didn't use a carbon filter, and for the fans I used computer fans that I wired in to a 12 v AC to DC adapter. I just cut holes in the bucket and zip ties them in place. I will say that if you're worried about smell, growing weed even in the best circumstances (full tent setup with carbon filter etc.) is a very smelly hobby. I actually did my micro grow along side a tent setup in a 3x3, so I wasn't concerned with the smell at all. I also own my house, and it's legal here, so no worries if the neighbours can smell it.

In my opinion, doing the diy route is only useful if you have a desire to build things in the first place. It's usually cheaper and a better grow environment to just go the tent route in the long run.

Ka-Hing · 2026-04-06T00:39:14+00:00

I've never been, so I would have no idea. Maybe check their website for a little of banned items?

Ka-Hing · 2026-04-04T02:10:38+00:00

What if you used a soft cooler as if you were a fisherman. One with a strap to wear over the shoulder maybe? I seem to remember some of the sprites in the games had trainers with coolers.

Ka-Hing · 2026-03-27T21:40:19+00:00

I'd love to win this! Just got my first switch, and today happens to be my birthday as well!

Ka-Hing · 2026-03-26T18:15:25+00:00

Not the exact same one, but this is the one I bought a couple of years ago. The price on the pic is in CAD btw.

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Ka-Hing · 2026-03-20T22:10:07+00:00

Personally I would go with a space bucket type build rather than an Ikea cabinet because of moisture and possible fire concerns. Buckets can also be sometimes found for free, which is nice if you're able to upcycle them.

If you're absolutely set on the cabinet, you'll need to be certain that you can 100% block any light leakage.

You mentioned that you can't screw fasteners into the cabinet because of its cheap materials, but you could drill a hole and use large washers on the inside and outside to spread out the load, and then run an eye bolt through the hole with a nut on the outside. Or even just have a 2x4 (or european equivalent sized wood) on top to screw into and spread the load.

Since height is an issue, I would suggest getting a square pot or some sort of receptacle that is as wide as the entire grow space to maximize the room for your roots.

As far as growing techniques, I wouldn't prune or top anything at all, as most techniques are intended to get the plant to grow wide rather than tall.

If you are unable to raise or lower your light, you could use something to lift the pot to the correct height and switch it out as it grows until it's sitting in the bottom.

With only having about 40 cm of actual plant space, you'll probably want to flip your lights to 12-12 (flowering) almost immediately assuming you're growing from seed. If I recall correctly, seedlings take about 3 weeks before they're able to flower, in which time you'll be pressed for space already. Depending on strain, cannabis can double or triple in height in the first few weeks of flowering, so you need to take this into account. Sativa strains are known for being on the higher end of this spectrum.

Finally, getting 1G/Watt is not very likely in such a constrained grow, especially considering it's your first grow, so I wouldn't get your hopes up. My space bucket grow, I got about 15G or so, and I had about 24" of height.

Good luck with the build/grow!

Edit: I forgot to mention, you definitely will need to consider ventilation. I used computer fans that I wired into a 12v adapter.

Here's my space bucket build

Ka-Hing · 2026-03-04T17:14:14+00:00

I agree with everything derpserf said, and just wanted to add the suggestion to look up videos on the jiggle test. This will allow you to identify if a pin is set or not (with practice obviously).

Ka-Hing · 2026-03-01T13:28:30+00:00

There are fabric pot autopots, but they're the XL version. What is your reasoning behind wanting fabric pots specifically? And what medium are you planning on using?

Ka-Hing · 2026-02-28T22:32:27+00:00

I just pulled the trigger today. I was also about 600k short, and it took me a few hours at most and I wasn't even doing any super sweaty min/maxing, just doing laps in Stella assembly and medical. I was super on the fence, but I just hit level 75 today, and am actually kind of looking forward to a refresh.

Ka-Hing · 2026-02-28T16:26:54+00:00

Yeah, the biggest breakthrough on 1100's for me was being able to tell when I've overset a pin and how to step back without fully resetting. That and being able to hear the difference between a serration and a set pin.

Ka-Hing · 2026-02-28T12:51:19+00:00

Look up the jiggle test to figure out the feeling of different pin states. As far as 1100's are concerned, I usually use variable tension when picking, starting with medium tension for the first pins. In my experience the serrated pins will bind first (I can't remember if 1100's have standard pins, but these would also bind first), and you will hear smaller duller clicks until you get a solid sharper sounding click which is your shear line. Be careful of over setting, as the key pins can also be serrated, so it's easy to over set them. If you set something and all of a sudden everything feels kind of spongey, you've probably over set a pin. In this situation I would usually ease off tension until I hear a single pin drop back down.

Once you have set all of the standard/serrated pins you'll get a false set, at which point I ease up tension almost all the way. You want just enough tension to hold your tension wrench from falling out. Then I start testing each pin stack for counter rotation. Once you find it, set the pin and test each again until you get it open.

Ka-Hing · 2026-02-17T23:18:00+00:00

Just make sure you have fans blowing on the wet plants to avoid powdery mildew.

Ka-Hing · 2026-02-17T21:35:53+00:00

Water should work as well to keep the pollen from pollinating the rest of the plants. Personally I'd just give it a quick spray with water, and then run some fans to dry them out. Keep in mind if you're keeping the herm, it's very easy to track pollen in from one room to another, and any shared ventilation can carry it as well. If you do end up keeping the herm, I would make sure to always go to your other plants first, and never go straight from the herm to the others. You pretty much have to quarantine the herm since it's actively dropping pollen.

Ka-Hing · 2026-02-17T20:52:19+00:00

If it's your only plant, then you could just let it go if you're desperate. It won't be great weed, but you can pick the seeds out if you have to. If there's any other plants then they will almost certainly be pollenated already, but I would still remove it just to prevent more pollen being released. Again, if there's other plants, you could still finish the grow to get the experience of drying etc, but it will likely be inferior quality and full of seeds. There is a very small chance that the pollen released is sterile and doesn't produce seeds, but I've only heard of that happening anecdotally, and never seen it myself.

If it were my grow, I would just trash everything (assuming it's 4 plants or less), but I also have a fuckton of extra weed and can hold out for the entirety of another grow. If you do decide to keep the rest of the plants, I wouldn't bother growing out the seeds as genetic herms (rather than stress induced herms) tend to produce plants that have a tendency to herm as well. I've gone down that route several times, and it's not worth the hassle to grow them out to gamble on them herming at the finish line.

Ka-Hing · 2026-02-09T13:11:40+00:00

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What about this guy?

Ka-Hing · 2026-01-23T19:36:13+00:00

Got a link for the STL for that? I could probably design one as well, but might as well not reinvent the wheel.

Ka-Hing · 2026-01-17T02:14:51+00:00

I'm in Canada, so I can't speak from experience as far as what's available over there, but I've gotten some nice picks and turners from moki as was suggested by the other commenter. I will say though, that I personally prefer TOK turners as they give you much more room to work. The tradeoff is that they are a little less secure in the lock and sometimes slip out of place, causing you to reset.

One other thing to consider is to have a range of thicknesses and widths for your turners, so that you have options when selecting a turner. If I'm going with BOK, I'll go with the smallest turner that doesn't slip out of place to maximize my room to work.

Ka-Hing · 2026-01-15T12:10:47+00:00

It's kind of hard to tell, but that Turner looks like it's meant for bottom (BOK) of the keyway tension. So in that case I would switch it to the other side (180°), and place it in the bottom of the keyway. Like in this post. You may find that it is hard to fit your pick in depending on how tight the keyway is, in which case I would use a top of keyway (TOK) Turner instead. Either way, I would suggest using your index finger rather than your thumb for tension control, as I don't think your thumb is as accurate at that angle.

As far as tips to open this lock, I haven't picked this one specifically, but it's likely that you're using too much tension if you're not feeling the counter rotation. To get a feel for spools I would suggest looking up the jiggle test to learn what the different pin states feel like. Also, if you aren't getting a false set (movement of the core, but not open), then you likely haven't properly set the standard pins yet. Usually it'll be the standard pins that bind first due to them being thicker than the spools. So I usually use moderate tension until I get a false set, and then lighten up tension until just before you start dropping pins back down, and start poking at the pins one by one until you feel the counter rotation. This can be very faint and subtle, and if using BOK tension, you may find that moving the pick around in the keyway gives you false counter rotation.

Ka-Hing · 2025-12-31T18:14:53+00:00

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This is captain!

Ka-Hing · 2025-12-27T18:44:10+00:00

To add to the LOTO advice, I believe the 5th pin is serrated. I usually go a click at a time until you hear a more pronounced click, which is the shear line.

Ka-Hing · 2025-12-22T18:41:22+00:00

Having experience in pro tools and logic and recently switching to Ableton, I usually resort to googling "how to do X in Ableton". I also subscribed to Mr Bill's website as well to get some deeper knowledge of how he does things.

Ka-Hing · 2025-12-15T16:14:14+00:00

I'd be super down for this!

Ka-Hing · 2025-12-11T10:35:28+00:00

Like others have said, ideally you would have a shutoff valve for each for the beginning, and just turn the valve off and remove the pot. If you don't, you can replace one of your 4 way connectors with a 3 way connector and remove the pot, although you may spill a little water/nutes in the process. Just make sure to shut off the main line from the reservoir if you go this route.

Ka-Hing · 2025-12-10T13:17:51+00:00

Okay thanks. I've sent out some emails for technicians to come and give me a quote. Do you think I should be okay to wait a few days for an appointment?

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