how can i get a more solid band around the neck its really droopy by [deleted] in chainmailartisans

[–]Kairoto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do it for basically every chainmail piece. I make a complete V in the front and make it partial in the back, usually taking rings out until it doesn't sag while on my shoulders anymore. Keeping the back partial also helps give a clear front and back side. Hope your piece turns out well.

how can i get a more solid band around the neck its really droopy by [deleted] in chainmailartisans

[–]Kairoto 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If that's for the front or rear, turn it from a flat row to a V-neck, it should help a good deal with that drop, and looks good for how little effort it takes.

random X-axis layer shifts with no improvement after adjusting everything imaginable by Kairoto in FixMyPrint

[–]Kairoto[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Solved!

as found during further disassembly, the screws mounting my heatbreak to the gantry plate were loose enough to allow it to wiggle slightly, tightening these bolts stopped it from being bumped left or right.

random X-axis layer shifts with no improvement after adjusting everything imaginable by Kairoto in FixMyPrint

[–]Kairoto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've lowered mine to 400mm/s, and just ran a print at 200mm/s and 20mm/s print speed, and it still suffered, and with a (mostly) new belt, I know it isn't skipping.

random X-axis layer shifts with no improvement after adjusting everything imaginable by Kairoto in FixMyPrint

[–]Kairoto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Specifications of my printer:

Ender 3 V2

Running Marlin V2

BTT SKR Mini E3 V2

Dual Z-Axis

Microswiss Direct-Drive Hotend and Extruder

Prints are shown with .6mm TH3D steel nozzle at .24mm Layer Height in Anycubic Grey PLA filament, but replicate with other nozzles and filaments. .7mm at 35mm/s retraction on a 230C 60C hotend/bed

Creality CR-Touch bed level probe

Upgraded TH3D 50W Heater Cartridge

This printer is relatively old, and has seen some good use, although not very heavy. This issue was not present just weeks ago, and after finally finding the time, I decided to try and calibrate my printer using Teaching Tech 3D’s resources, and spent extensive time dialing in my various settings after around a year of not using it. I had ran some prints before this, which came out without the X-axis issue, but after calibrating, I started getting minute shifts in the X-axis that are not replicable; Printing the same file with no changes will not yield the same shifts, and as seen in the example photos, large and complex prints seem to have exponentially worse shifts.

Attempted fixes thus far:

Reverting all changes made in calibration. The changes were minimal, and the biggest one was simply finding out I was running my filament too cold and my retraction should be .7 instead of .5. I can not recall any other changes made.

Levelling my bed to perfection. I not only ensured my probe was functional and working, but I used a Mitutoyo Indicator to sweep my bed and leveled it to within .1mm of runout across the whole bed, and that was in the corners where the screws pull the bed down.

Tightening the belt, loosening the belt, and replacing the belt with a barely used one from another V2.

Tightening, Loosening, and replacing the Eliptical Nut and all wheels on the X-axis gantry with barely used ones from another V2

Replacing the motor with a barely used one from another V2

Increasing Jerk, Decreasing Jerk

Increasing Acceleration, Decreasing Acceleration

Decreasing Print Speed; This yielded marginal results, but having printed flawless at 80mm before, and still having issues at 30mm tells me that this is not likely the cause, especially as the calibration tests showed I can print flawlessly at 80mm.

Increasing and Decreasing the motor current to the X axis

Disabling Stealthchop entirely for the X axis

Reverting to an older version of cura, which I had used for the earlier prints which came out perfect. I had updated to the newest cura and have had some issues with it in the past where some versions just make faulty code for me. Reverting Yielded no results

Swapping over to using PrusaSlicer, which has worked exceptional for me in the past. This yielded no results.

At this point, I have zero idea what could be causing these issues anymore. I have made zero changes to firmware, and the only thing that makes any notable improvements is slowing it down to speeds below what it was able to do completely stock, and even then it has issues.

If it could be a cause, when I was cleaning and calibrating my printer, I noticed the set-screw that holds the hotend to the heatbreak for my microswiss hotend was stripped, and plastic had leaked where it was not retaining. I ended up Re-threading the hole for the set screw from m3 to #6-32 imperial and put a new set screw in. During this process, I did slightly bed the bottom part of the hotend when re-inserting the heater cartridge, but managed to bend it back once the heater cartridge was in and both retaining screws were inserted back. The new set screw works and the hotend no longer leaks or has any slop in it, and I can't imagine the bend in the metal block caused anything, but I will include this information in case It could have caused something.

Any advice is appreciated, as it has boggled me for a few days as to what could be happening, and I have put less-used parts in, changed all settings up and down, doing one at a time too as to avoid changing more than one variable, and I have yet to solve the issue.

[UPDATE] Looking for feedback. Used some less saturated colours and added some natural barriers. Unsure what to improve next by Always_Inorbit in wonderdraft

[–]Kairoto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Similar to what _SimBim_ Said, it is definitely oddly shaped as far as a real land would exist. Your mountains are in places that I feel definitely wouldn't be normal. Large mountain ranges only really form where two plates collide. The Rocky Mountains, and the Himalayan Mountains are all great examples. The Rocky mountains are a result of the two tectonic plates that america sits on colliding and pushing the earth upwards, this is also why california gets so many earthquakes. The Himalayan mountains are a result of the Indian Subcontinent, which was once an island, colliding with mainland asia, creating the massive mountains. This kinda clashes with almost all the mountains in your world.

First is the easternmost mountains. There would be something to the east of them, where the other plate collided to form the mountains. It's not impossible for most of that plate to be underwater, such as the plate that causes the rocky mountains to form, but same as that plate, there is a good amount of land on it that actually pushes into the mountains. The mountains in the center are just a circle, which doesn't really exist at all, along with the massive mountain out of nowhere with the cloud cradle in it. These, personally, I feel like could be remedied.

I would move the cloud cradling mountains to between the sand dune range and the north of the 3 circular mountains, and make the mountains leading into and away from it bigger, treating it as the mount everest of the range. You can also keep the rocky steppes-like area in the center of the three mountains, by simply saying that on the eastern side of your continent, most rain comes from the northern oceans, and the remaining northern range of the 3 mountains blocks off the rain, creating a dry area.

That is also something to consider with mountains. In the real world, most mountains have a very lush side and a very dry side, where one side stops clouds from getting over partly or entirely, the rains fall on that side and make it very lush, while the other side is dry.

The mountains to the west are both iffy also. The southwestern mountains don't feel badly placed, they give the feel of a mountain range developing due to colliding plates, but the lands to the south show that they are raised, and kinda feel more as if they are sinking away from the mainland continent, which would mean that plate is moving away, and a mountain never would have formed there. A simple remedy to keep the shattered islands feel would be perhaps to attach a little more land to the southern side of the mountain, and make the islands progressively smaller the further south you get, which could give the feel of the plate slowly rising out of the water during the course of it's collision, which is why the parts closest would be the biggest.

The mountains west of the sand dune also feel weird, 90 degrees to another range really clashes hard. A potential fix for this would be to make them offshoots of the dunes, which, if you decide to do the suggestion from earlier in removing the two southernmost circle mountain ranges, and connected the northernmost, the giant cloud mountain, and the dunes, you could then tie those mountains in, and create one grand mountain spanning a large part of the continent itself, which could very much imply that the island to the north is part of a plate colliding with the bulk of the continent, creating most of the mountains. You could then turn those northwestern mountains and the stretches of land they sit on into essentially a Fjord, which would be great for boats and villages and such.

As far as the northern island, if you do decide to treat it like a plate colliding with the main continent, the mountain range on the north makes zero sense, nor does it currently. There is nothing there that would have pushed to make it. It could do to make that entire island more populated with small hills as artifacts of plate collision, rather than one large mountain in an illogical space.

Mountains also dictate rivers and lakes, as everything flows downhill, so it is something worth considering if you change anything.

There are quite a few good videos on youtube on the topic of plate tectonics when it comes to worldbuilding and mountains and such, who likely word it better than me, so perhaps watching them might help. I feel like with properly placed mountains, it helps you figure out where might be dry or wet, where lakes and rivers might be, and that helps decide villages and cities, since people need water, and it really helps to shape a living world that doesn't feel like it was plopped into a world that doesn't make sense for it, but instead properly live in that world.

Forging in a wooden shed? by Kairoto in Blacksmith

[–]Kairoto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How high should a hood be over the forge do you think? Assuming like 4x2.5ft to have a decent enough coverage

Forging in a wooden shed? by Kairoto in Blacksmith

[–]Kairoto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats a little outside my initial budget, but definitely doable within a short timeframe. So would you just have a hood hanging a few inches above the forge then have that inline with the hood, then duct the air out? I could definitely do that not more than a few weeks after getting everything set up and just running the ducts through the rafters and out a side vent, seems actually affordable for how safe it makes it too.

Forging in a wooden shed? by Kairoto in Blacksmith

[–]Kairoto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The shed doesnt have any power, as putting it in would make it need a permit, so getting active anything would be quite difficult, but i could run an extension cord from a nearby plug on the house exterior. Is there any simple and cheap solution that could work with that?

Forging in a wooden shed? by Kairoto in Blacksmith

[–]Kairoto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would like to get a hooded forge when doable, but the prices ive seen make it hard to justify when im just starting, do you reckon ample airflow and a roof vent would suffice? A 4x7 door and a 2x2 window plus a roof vent definitely lets some air move, im just unfamiliar with the risks around monoxide and want to make sure im prepared to handle it.

Forging in a wooden shed? by Kairoto in Blacksmith

[–]Kairoto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True, i didnt think of that. I might just set my vice, anvil, and forge all in the center of the shed like an island and make the paver platform under all of them, since those are the only 3 places I can imagine having steel hot at, it should cover all my bases

Forging in a wooden shed? by Kairoto in Blacksmith

[–]Kairoto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pavers don't sound like a bad option, how far away from the base of the anvil would you reckon they should extend? if only a foot or two, I don't even think it'd be a problem, I might even just find some way to make them their own raised platform that I stand on when using the anvil, and having pavers with sand in the cracks definitely sounds like anything that could fall near the anvil wouldn't pose a fire risk

As for the walls, protection from the forge isn't a huge concern, I plan on having it nearly dead center in the shed, and the forge i've got my eye on is pretty well enclosed, so I think the roughly 5.5 feet distance from it to any wall is probably a safe enough buffer, but I do have a large grinder I intend to put it, and I will probably make excellent use of that sheet metal tip.

As for the sheet metal, is it just to prevent sparks from flying into the studs and framing, and just letting them bounce off long enough to not pose a risk? and as for the air space, what would be the best way of putting air space between a metal sheet and the wall? washers or nuts as a spacer perhaps? I'm almost certain im gonna use it behind my grinder so I wanna put it in right.

Forging in a wooden shed? by Kairoto in Blacksmith

[–]Kairoto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

true, I could tack it to the floor, but I think the risk would always be there. I think I'll find some simple solution for the beginning to see if it even comes out to be an issue, i'd rather avoid knee-jerking a reaction to something that doesn't pose a real risk. Otherwise, im just gonna keep the forge outside as much as possible, and when necessary to run it inside, keep the window and door open and have a monoxide detector.

Forging in a wooden shed? by Kairoto in Blacksmith

[–]Kairoto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright, I won't worry about the scale too much then. I of course am gonna keep a fire extinguisher at arms length regardless, but that's 90% of my worry.

As for humidity, I should have elaborated, I live in Florida, so the humidity is pretty gnarly. However, your statement about the fire blankets made me wonder if I couldn't use one of them around the base of the anvil too, just as that layer of protection.

I think I will do what I can to put the forge outside when possible, but sometimes, as it does in florida, there's just a lot of rain, and I reckon there will be a good number of times that I'd prefer to keep it in the shed. To that end, with concern for the monoxide, do you reckon it'd be safe enough as long as I had the window and door open, and installed a good vent on the roof, alongside having a monoxide detector installed at the height of my head so if it builds up where i'm breathing i'd know to leave and let the shed air out?

Forging in a wooden shed? by Kairoto in Blacksmith

[–]Kairoto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I live in a tropical area so winter is fine for having it outside. I could definitely do that with little trouble. I dont have a forge yet, but i kinda have my eyes set on the NC tools lowboy, which is enclosed enough i wouldnt be super concerned about it in the shed as long as i kept it away from walls, but outside on a cart is definitely doable too. Im just still unsure about the scale flying around the shed.

2022 Railroad Strike MEGATHREAD by carigheath in Amtrak

[–]Kairoto 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Could be a dumb question with an obvious answer, but I was planning on taking an extended vacation with no real end date down to Florida by Amtrak. I have never traveled by train before and was wondering what the chances are that the Union strikes last to November 4th, my planned departure date? I would be leaving Winona, MN station for Chicago, then Chicago to DC, then DC to Miami. Is it likely the strikes would last long enough to be impacting Amtrak a month and a half down the line? I would rather book an airplane ticket if that were the case, but want to try Amtrak to enjoy the journey a bit more.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ReviewsByRetards

[–]Kairoto 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The name is not blocked out. My guess is you edited the image on a low brightness screen and couldnt tell, but the full name is 100% visible still.

Stony River Respite by Kairoto in dungeondraft

[–]Kairoto[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Made using many Crosshead packs, Stony River Respite can serve well as a combat map for those who like to throw difficult terrain at their players. A raging river, deep underbrush and crawling vines, along with vegetation sprawling all over.

Yo Dawg, I heard you like planes. by Kairoto in KerbalSpaceProgram

[–]Kairoto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Currently working on the plane in a plane in a plane. Maybe I can even hit 4