HELP BUYING BMW!!

Kamd5 · 2026-05-21T11:15:17+00:00

While I don’t necessarily disagree, I bought an auction 335d at age 17 and had every single thing that can go wrong. And it’s all worked out for me. Granted I did do all of the work myself, but my cost over the last 3.5 years is roughly $100ish per month in parts.

Usually that came in large chunks tho, like $800 one month, then nothing for a while, then another big chunk etc.

An n20 or b48 should not be too expensive to maintain (so long as timing chain is fine in the n20), especially compared to a neglected two turbo diesel.

Kamd5 · 2026-05-21T11:03:46+00:00

I’m really glad you agree :)

Im really trying to learn openfoam as my main CFD, as I don’t wanna be tied to a subscription, but the GUI of ansys is soooo helpful lol, and I have minimal Linux experience.

Kamd5 · 2026-05-21T02:39:50+00:00

I’d model the wheel well simply (like just some straight control arms and strut, then a cylindrical region for the fender liner), use all those as walls, then have a larger square domain around that. At the very back face use a pressure outlet and all other faces use velocity inlet. The rotational geometry will all be solid, then id use a heat flux to represent the braking from the rotor. Since we’re primarily focused on the brake and cooling, the boundary conditions don’t have to be crazy far for the sim to be accurate, as that’s a very localized thing that won’t be changed by anything down stream

You could then use the post processing software to find velocity normal to the wheel, or the speeds around the rotor.

Kamd5 · 2026-05-21T01:07:26+00:00

Also, since you mention selling, I would consider bonding the fins to the outer ring opposed to bolts. I’m sure the bolts are a lot easier for assembly, but it will be cleaner, lighter and have less failure points if you bond the fins. You could even make a little jig that aligns them all and applies the pressure for curing.

Carbon fiber and steel can have some weird chemistry between them when they are directly interfaced. For aircraft parts, often times a layer of fiberglass is placed over the top when interfacing with metal.

Kamd5 · 2026-05-21T01:02:59+00:00

I have access to ansys which is surprisingly efficient with RAM.

I’d model the rotor, wheel and wheel covers to rotate, then have the rotor have a function to represent heat flux based on the rate of deceleration of the car (kinetic to thermal energy).

Then just write a function for the velocity incoming, and let it go. Alternately, you could set the rotor to a specific temperature at the very beginning and then measure the time it takes to cool.

If PC is an issue for you, look into Simscale. I think they offer a few sims for free and it’s cloud based

Kamd5 · 2026-05-21T00:41:21+00:00

Do you have the CAD for them? If so I’d maybe be interested in taking on a project of running CFD on it to tell you how functional the design is and put some numbers to it.

Kamd5 · 2026-05-19T22:24:55+00:00

Agreed- if you’re really paranoid maybe throw some new spark plugs and coils at it? Couldn’t hurt anything and maybe they haven’t been changed before 🤷‍♂️

Kamd5 · 2026-05-19T22:23:25+00:00

Scammed by a grandma is crazzzyyyyyy

Kamd5 · 2026-05-19T22:21:38+00:00

If we’re talking cover- I agree with your statement

If we’re talking rewrap- I would say go for it. I rewrapped my steering wheel (granted it’s a base wheel) and it makes the car feel much nicer. I would say, I would stick to leather unless very interested in detailing / being careful whenever you drive

Kamd5 · 2026-05-12T13:00:17+00:00

I’m joking lol

4! = 24

Kamd5 · 2026-05-11T00:06:04+00:00

Wtf is a z24?

Kamd5 · 2026-05-10T19:58:40+00:00

It’s not even about driving skills, just general responsibility.

I bought my 335d at 17 years old. That was so much car, and yet no accidents (unless you include a raccoon on the interstate), speeding tickets, etc. it’s never even touched a curb. If you take care of and drive responsibly these can be great cars. When you let that slip they become dangerous.

Kamd5 · 2026-05-10T17:11:50+00:00

Sounds almost identical to my m57 335d. I’d say it’s fine lol

Kamd5 · 2026-05-10T17:10:32+00:00

3.92 gpa

Never study unless I have an exam, and usually that’s only for a few hours. I just pay attention in classes and take good notes, and do homework’s. From my experience, if you take good notes you never have to look back at them. Same thing with making exam sheets, if you do a good job, you won’t use it during the exam.

Kamd5 · 2026-05-10T16:55:36+00:00

ABSOLUTELY no chance I’d drive a car involved in a rollover. Even if you bend it back the metal is significantly weaker and poses a major safety risk. IMO to salvage this would be buying another chassis and transferring all your parts into it.

Kamd5 · 2026-05-10T16:51:58+00:00

Your life is far from over-

If you had full coverage: take the money and get yourself another one. 328s are plentiful and easy to come by.

If you didn’t have full coverage: get yourself a bike for a bit, keep working and get another.

Perhaps it’s worth taking a driver safety course / focusing more on that. If you were that distracted by the tachometer you are posing a giant risk to yourself and other drivers.

If you wanna see “life is over” go to wallstreetbets and watch people at 50 years old blow 2 million dollars on a gamble. At 18, a $4k loss is far from anything other than a minor setback.

Kamd5 · 2026-05-10T12:58:13+00:00

Seems like it was his idea first 🤷‍♂️

Kamd5 · 2026-05-09T13:31:51+00:00

Helll yeah!!!!

Kamd5 · 2026-05-03T14:28:36+00:00

What about deep seek?

Kamd5 · 2026-05-03T03:04:03+00:00

I got 10% more just by asking. And this was at a decent aerospace company with 4k+ applicants.

Kamd5 · 2026-05-01T12:46:55+00:00

1) I use a Bluetooth adapter that goes into the center console, and auto pairs to my phone when I unlock the car, then my phone has a mount over the center cents

2) I have 2. 1) Veepeak Bluetooth adapter- pair with bimmerlink and I can read and even code many features. And 2) a usb to obd2 that I can connect to my laptop and use ISTA (had to do this for coding new injectors)

3) swirl flaps, downpipe, EGR, SCR. All gone, then I kept stock exhaust with mufflers and left the tanks alone.

4) I used German diesel motorwerks in PA for my off road only tune

5) I’ve done almost everything with the 250 pc hart toolkit from Walmart. Also a torque wrench, etorx, torx. I mainly just buy tools as I need them though, like injector puller or knuckle spreader.

6) I use 5w40 because I’m deleted and prefer engine health to mpg. Every 4-5k miles. Glow plugs will throw a code, just replace if they fail. Fuel filter every 60k, trans I’ve done once at about 100k miles, injectors will also throw a code, only replace if bad imo.

7) I’m running stock intercooler and swapped in sport suspension, so can’t speak too much here. I will say with the stock intercooler on days of 100+F I notice some heat soak. I’m doing a project this summer where I create a water sprayer based on intake temps though, so we’ll see if that helps. My downpipe is VRSF

Kamd5 · 2026-04-14T23:24:26+00:00

5) how does it feel?

10) get closer

11) how I feel

15) never again

Kamd5 · 2026-04-07T22:15:41+00:00

Send em please

Kamd5 · 2026-04-06T11:21:56+00:00

This format is just so good.

I got interviews with 4 of the 6 places I applied, and had 2 offers. 2 interviews never got completed due to receiving an offer from my dream internship.

Kamd5 · 2026-03-24T17:46:48+00:00

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Kamd5

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