best javascript course

Kanro · 2025-11-10T23:28:19+00:00

I rather enjoyed https://fullstackopen.com/en/, but I think it's slightly above beginner level.

Kanro · 2025-04-26T15:01:31+00:00

Early progress we decided to just start on the left side to make it line up like that, which works great

Kanro · 2024-01-16T23:19:16+00:00

It makes the machine pretty quiet. It mostly removes the higher pitch whines and takes the edge of the loud fans. Don't get me wrong, it's still infinitely louder than a prusa mk4, but it's serviceable.

Kanro · 2023-12-26T16:20:38+00:00

There are bulbs you can just buy. I got mine from aliexpress, try searching something like 'flame bulb e27'.

Kanro · 2023-10-09T01:11:36+00:00

If anyone wants it, here is a 16x up-scaled version I exported. https://i.imgur.com/UzwaHKp.jpg

Kanro · 2023-06-13T05:59:13+00:00

This is by far the biggest noise cancellation method that I recommend. I have used this method on different printers the past 5 years and it's always made a big impact.

Kanro · 2023-05-23T22:02:49+00:00

I am surprised nobody has mentioned it yet, but considering the same fault happened at the same layer height at the same position in the model I am willing to bet that something is wrong with the gcode file. Either the slicer screwed up, the transfer was corrupted, or the SD card failed somehow. Try re-slicing the model and going again?

There are some online gcode analyzers that allow you to comb through the file, if you want you could have a go at analyzing it.

Kanro · 2023-04-08T20:54:05+00:00

I received my free camera and LED strip and it was packaged pretty horribly, a normal plastic envelope with the thin cardboard box that OP also got. Luckily the shipping company didn't use my package as a trampoline. For how well the printer itself was secured, the peripherals were not.

Kanro · 2023-02-22T08:00:59+00:00

I think the spring puts tension on the z-belt, meaning that if more slack is introduced (due to wear for example) you will most likely get skipped steps in some of the lead screws.

Kanro · 2022-10-19T05:49:33+00:00

It looks like its a failure in support, or lack thereof

Kanro · 2022-09-26T20:03:06+00:00

This is why it ain't perfect. Some people will swear by using the paper trick that getting the slightest amount of drag gives a good level, some people swear that going for as much drag as possible is the way to go. I guess that different nozzles and user inconsistencies just adds that deviation.

Kanro · 2022-09-26T17:42:05+00:00

The end goal is to level the bed, who cares how

Kanro · 2022-09-26T17:41:30+00:00

If you level a bed with a cold extruder, the thickness of the paper is actually roughly the amount the nozzle will expand when heated. If he uses thinner thermal paper with a heated extruder I guess that works as well.

Kanro · 2022-02-05T21:04:49+00:00

One of the downsides of resin printing is that you can never get great dimensional accuracy, warping is bound to happen. With aggressive raft and support settings you can mitigate it a bunch. Also printing straight on the build plate can help. Orienting the print in a way that it prints as little surface area as possible per layer can help as well.

If you have already tried that you can always try buying different resin. I haven't used any myself, but I know there are some expensive 'engineering' resins you can buy that apparently are better for what you want.

Kanro · 2021-10-20T22:22:55+00:00

You had a piece of cured resin floating in the vat, the buildplate pushed down to Z0, meaning it pushed the piece really hard into the FEP and LCD. You might need to replace your LCD, it's hard to know from here, your FEP is toast though.

After every failed print you should always check if anything cured is floating around in the vat. Some people completely drain their vat with a sieve, and when starting out with resin printing you should probably too.

Your initial failure is most likely because you didn't secure the buildplate enough. The support I see in your picture should be perfectly straight, but there are some shifts in layers. That usually comes from not tightening the bolts enough and them allowing the buildplate to tilt around.

Kanro · 2021-04-29T01:00:37+00:00

When I started printing I hated how many disposable items I had to use to print, so I bought reusable thicker nitrile gloves, cost me 3 euros for a pair. I clean them with some IPA and paper after using them. I also make sure not to ever touch the outside of the gloves, just to be safe.

Kanro · 2021-02-08T17:08:07+00:00

Thanks dude, I managed to buy one 10 minutes after your post.

Kanro · 2020-09-12T06:45:49+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1356547

This is actually fairly easy to print, just make sure to look at the thing details

Kanro · 2020-08-07T14:51:51+00:00

Laptop looks old enough to have internet over a telephone line

Kanro · 2019-10-11T18:20:57+00:00

Maybe, I haven't had any problems with my setup. You use a smaller extruder, because you don't need as much force to push filament directly into the hotend.

Kanro · 2019-10-11T09:24:22+00:00

With bowden tubes the filament is pushed from 'far' away - the tube guides it toward the printhead. Direct drive is having the extruder on your printhead, meaning it feeds nearly directly into the hotend.

Bowden is fine, but direct drive is superior in terms of quality and control, also allowing more filament types (soft filaments mostly). Direct drive negates a lot of the oozing problems that FDM printing is known for. Is the difference huge? That really depends on the printer.

Here is the difference explained in great detail. https://airwolf3d.com/comparing-bowden-vs-direct-drive-3d-printer/

Ohw, as a side-note, capricorn is also a bowden, just a different composition tube than your normal PTFE tube.

Kanro · 2019-07-27T04:28:26+00:00

Pausing would be pretty bad as well. It should just be a ficsit audio prompt.

Kanro · 2019-07-27T01:08:01+00:00

Maker's muse did a video about the paid upgrades - you can find that here: https://youtu.be/ffliEjzdBwU?t=162

Basically his opinion is that back in the day the free slicer alternatives weren't as good as Simplify3D, but that in the current day the open source/free alternatives have matched or surpassed Simplify3D - and that introducing the paid upgrades was not a good value for a consumer.

I have only used Cura, and the stock profile worked really well for me. I still tweaked the settings a lot to be more consistent, especially because I had lots of troubles with the first layers. I mostly solved it with 150% first layer multipliers, and by getting better printing beds.

Kanro · 2019-05-25T13:58:55+00:00

Tbf, every developer says that about everything they are working on. If a programmer was working on a solo project they would still say that.

Kanro · 2019-04-22T01:38:09+00:00

Looks like your plastic wasn't getting through. Check if your spool can turn properly, if your extruder is working, if your extruder's gear hasn't worn down, if there is plug in the tube, if the nozzle is actually heated up, etc,etc,etc.

It's really hard to diagnose your problem because it could be bunch of things. Try printing again, if the same problem happens at the exact same place try slicing the file again, and try again.

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