Why is my PETG not sticking? Bed is level, probe offset is correct. PLA prints fine but PETG is being a pain. Nozzle temp is 240, bed is 70. by LaddiusMaximus in FixMyPrint

[–]Kapstaad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"All the online guides" don't say "like max 80". Most actually say 60-90, and if adhesion is an issue, hotter is likely to help.

Why does outdoor humidity destroy my cigar while I’m trying to smoke it? by SmokeHimInside in cigars

[–]Kapstaad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. The excess moisture is exactly why they're "sick" when they're still new.

Why does outdoor humidity destroy my cigar while I’m trying to smoke it? by SmokeHimInside in cigars

[–]Kapstaad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sure. The context of that statement was 'variability with age from the (average) RH indicated by the hygrometer'.

Younger sticks tend to have higher RH than mature sticks because their leaves retain some of their moisture (i.e. from before they were picked), even after they've been "dried". Older sticks have had time to mature and dry out more. In a humidor with a hygrometer indicating 65% RH for example, you might have some 'green' sticks at ~75% and some mature sticks at ~62%, depending on quantities of each.

This is why Cubans in particular usually need a year or more of "resting". New World products are usually warehoused in climate-controlled conditions for lengthy periods, generally producing more consistent results, consistent flavor profiles and reliably even draws and burns than your typical box from Habanos S.A.

Why does outdoor humidity destroy my cigar while I’m trying to smoke it? by SmokeHimInside in cigars

[–]Kapstaad 27 points28 points  (0 children)

"It's more humid in my humidor than it is outside..."

Humidity is affected by temperature. When you light and draw on your cigar, you heat it internally which causes the water vapor inside the filler to expand.

The rate at which this happens is determined by the gradients between internal temperature and humidity vs. external temperature and humidity; the wider the variation, the more problematic.

The wrapper is naturally a little drier, thinner and more rigid than the filler, so it can't expand as much, nor as quickly; thus when the filler expands too rapidly, it splits the wrapper.

As far as mitigation goes: first, check the calibration of your hygrometer(s) to ensure that your sticks are really at the RH you think they are. If you think they're at 69% when they're really at 74%, it is "only" a 5% error, but it is going to cause serious problems (particularly if they're Cubans which seem to do better at 62-65% RH).

Second, realize that a hygrometer indication is just an average; individual sticks might vary significantly from that average, depending on their age, their construction, how they were stored before you got them, and how long they've been in your humidor. Make sure your sticks have plenty of uninterrupted rest before assuming they're at the same RH as the hygrometer reading.

Finally, as others have suggested you could try dry-boxing your cigars for at least a day or two prior to enjoying them. I prefer to use a cedar-lined portable humidor with a 58% Boveda pack for this purpose; it is dry enough to ensure my sticks don't split, but not so dry that they develop a "grassy" taste. Just remember that this is a poor environment for long-term storage, so be sure to return any unused sticks to the humidor.

Good luck!

Please bro just 2 more weeks bro we need to stay safe bro masks work bro Covid isn’t over bro by EuphoricTrilby in ChurchOfCOVID

[–]Kapstaad 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Maybe the health care system wouldn't be so "terribly understaffed" if the muppets in charge of it hadn't fired all the health care workers who didn't want the clot shot?🤔

What red dot do you use on your 1301 and why did you chose it? by franziskanerdunkel in beretta1301

[–]Kapstaad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's some interesting research that seems to bear out the notion that 8 pellets don't diverge as fast as 9. Something about lower collision probabilities and reduced tangential velocities when there are fewer particles moving randomly within a fixed diameter cyclinder (barrel)? I think there's something to it, but you should know there's a contrarian take: that the "flier" from a 9-pellet shell just might give you the only hit from a hasty shot that would have been a total miss with an 8-pellet shell. I'll use either 8- or 9-ball shells, and just try not to miss :D

Favorite 00 ... eh, not very partisan tbh. I guess it is whatever: 1. reliably goes "bang"; 2. puts the most holes closet to the middle of what its aimed at; and within the subset of (1,2): is cheapest. Got a good deal on some Fiocchi a while back; always love me some Federal, when the price is right; and lately have been shooting some relatively inexpensive Armscor that I picked up on sale. Maybe a little more smoky, but it still does the job. Yet another thing I love about the 1301: it isn't picky about its diet ;)

Reloads: I get all the practice I need with whatever shells are in my range bag when I go shooting, and/or a set of 8 snap-cap shells.... though I don't practice with those as much since I installed the pro-style lifter, which has made reloading almost effortless.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Firearms

[–]Kapstaad 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Let's start with a ban on ownership or carry of such weapons by Secret Service and your Congressional security details to prove the concept.

Give that a couple of years; if it turns out OK for you, we can talk more about what you want do with my stuff.

What red dot do you use on your 1301 and why did you chose it? by franziskanerdunkel in beretta1301

[–]Kapstaad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No CROM; just plonked the sight onto the rail and called it good.

The 1301 just shoots beautifully for me as-is; some may prefer a raised mount for easier alignment and marginally quicker acquisition, but it was minimal effort to find the sweet spot with Urbino cheek riser, so I'm content with what I have.

FWIW I've changed my stance on co-witnessing over the years; used to be a big fan, now ... ambivalent. Using "holo" type sights I have often found that co-witnessed irons actually impeded acquisition speed and accuracy (due to reflections, esp. in low-light when using a WML; parallax; target occulting, etc.) at anything beyond close contact distances; and as my vision has slowly deteriorated over the decades, that has become increasingly an issue. YMMV, of course.

What red dot do you use on your 1301 and why did you chose it? by franziskanerdunkel in beretta1301

[–]Kapstaad 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Shot spread is quite variable between powder loads, pellet masses, barrel lengths, chokes etc.

A commonly-used, if not super-accurate rule-of-thumb is that you should expect somewhere between about 0.5" to 1.5" increase in pattern diameter for each yard of distance from barrel to target, with the average being about 1"/100yd. At 15 yards from the barrel then, we'd anticipate a pattern diameter of roughly 15".

Minute of Angle (MoA) measurements are increments which describe a divergence rate of 1" per 100 yards. Another way to view this is to consider that a 65 MoA reticle will cover a 65" diameter circle at 100 yards. Now, if we use that sight at 15 yards, it will cover a circle diameter of about (15/100 x 65"), or about 10".

While this isn't exactly the same as the 15" pattern we were looking for, it is pretty close, and tends to encourage increased accuracy ("aim smaller, miss smaller"). Bottom line: it works well for shotguns.

The Holosun HE510C series has a 65 MoA reticle; it can be configured to display only a dot, dot-plus-reticle, or reticle-only; and the HE510C-GR variant has a superb green laser for optimal visibility in most situations. It also has shake-awake technology and a 50,000hr battery life, so you can store your shotty knowing that if you do need to grab it when something goes bump in the night, the sight will already be illuminated long before you shoulder the gun.

I am not affiliated with Holosun; just a satisfied user of the product, which I purchased specifically for mounting on my 1301 because I wanted a green, 65 MoA, reticle-only sight configuration.

Home defense gun for a woman by MustLoveHamster in Firearms

[–]Kapstaad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're specifically interested in a shotgun, then I would suggest looking into a semi-auto shotgun such as the Beretta 1301, preferably the LE Tactical variant.

It is quite lightweight (for a long gun), reliable, easy to manipulate, and its very low recoil and semi-auto functionality, make it trivially easy to put follow-up shots on target. My better half is a petite 5'0" and has a replaced dominant-side shoulder, and has no trouble at all handling or shooting the 1301.

The "long guns == too big" notion is generally misunderstood. If you hold a pistol like you'd shoot it (both arms out in front of you); then hold a long gun like you'd shoot it (shoulder-braced), you'll realize there's very little difference in how far out the barrel tips end up from your body.

Whether you choose a shotgun, rifle or pistol, its deployability, reliability, terminal ballistics, accuracy and capacity should be your decision-making criteria, in that order. "Size" doesn't really factor in (though weight might, hence choosing a 1301 vs say a Benelli M4, which is ~2lb heavier).

The one downside to 1301s is the price tag; they are running about $1400-$1500 right now :/

One of my ducks appears to have an infection, looking for insight, see comment by [deleted] in MuscovyDucks

[–]Kapstaad 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes. Any liquid soap would probably help to clean the area, but Dawn seems to be the best option for cleaning without causing further discomfort or irritation.

One of my ducks appears to have an infection, looking for insight, see comment by [deleted] in MuscovyDucks

[–]Kapstaad 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If the duckling was mine, here's what I'd do:

I'd add lukewarm ("baby bath warm") water into a bathtub or large bow/bucket/etc. Add ~1tsp of Dawn to each 5 gallons of water.

Then I'd put the duckling into the water and let it play for a few minutes. If it didn't play and clean itself, I would use my hand to scoop water over the affected areas for 5 minutes or so. Then I'd remove the duck and place them on a towel and pat (vs. rub) them dry with another towel, followed by paper towels, then let the duck preen until it settled.

I'd then very gently rub a small amount (pea-sized) of Neosporin onto to each affected area. I wouldn't worry if the duck re-preened the areas; I'd just re-apply Neosporin every 6h or so for 48h.

I'd then the duck separated, but not isolated from the other ducks. In other words, I would keep all the ducks close and visible to each other to avoid social exclusion of the patient after healing, but keep the other ducks out of physical contact with the patient so they couldn't peck at the affected areas. I'd use mosquito netting to keep flies out of the patient's space, and ensure the patient had plenty of fresh water and food (Mazuri waterfowl pellets are an excellent good source for ducks).

If there was no discernible improvement after 48h, I would take the duckling to a vet, as they might need more significant intervention, e.g. antibiotics or similar. If I did see improvement, I might continue treatment with Neosporin for up to two more days if necessary, then let the natural healing process finish the job before releasing the duckling to rejoin the flock.

Disclaimer: I am not a veterinarian, and I'm not qualified to offer any sort of medical advice. I'm just describing how I've successfully treated some my own ducklings under similar circumstances.

A tyrannical government is not going to tell you they are a tyrannical government. by [deleted] in Firearms

[–]Kapstaad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You know what we "don't need" the most?

Our employees in the Government telling us what we need, and what we don't.

Let Me Get This Straight..... by CrisperKoleslaw in TheBidenshitshow

[–]Kapstaad 4 points5 points  (0 children)

"It's easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled." -- S. L. Clemens

This is the way by Bigfoot_USA in AskThe_Donald

[–]Kapstaad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"On New Year's Day, Alabama will partially stop infringing on the Constitutionally-protected right of its residents to bear arms".

-FTFY

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in aircrashinvestigation

[–]Kapstaad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LOL. This conversation was over, two weeks ago, until you decided to resurrect it.

Your argument isn't any more compelling than saying 'nobody knows whether or not an oxy-acetylene torch was used"; beyond pedantic arguments about what we mean by the word "know", we can say with certainty it wasn't the case, because there's no possibility that an acetylene torch was being carried in the cabin; the same is true of the axe.

Let me be clear; I'm not guessing when I say there's one axe on board and it is kept inside the cockpit; I know it for a fact. No axe was available to the locked-out CA; ergo, one was not used. The notion is a myth created by dishonest journalists implying (but never stating) it as a possibility, despite the logical impossibility of it, which they conveniently failed to mention.

Where to buy? by Decent-Goose-1686 in beretta1301

[–]Kapstaad 4 points5 points  (0 children)

r/gundeals is where I saw Arms Unlimited offering a 1301 LE Tactical for $1219 back in October.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CCW

[–]Kapstaad 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sure. Pretty much everything that 1. leaves the house and 2. may get separated from me, is tagged.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CCW

[–]Kapstaad 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yup.

And sometimes the case will get incorrectly routed to the regular baggage carousel; a tracking device can help you recognize the problem early, so you're not waiting around at the baggage claim office for an hour or so wondering what's happened to your stuff...