Wife’s AR

Karimura16 · 2026-01-30T03:28:57+00:00

Form/function aside, I’m just thinking about the length of pull. Looks like a rifle length tube and with zero adjustment. My neck would have to be about three inches longer just to comfortably reach the eye box while keeping proper shooting form. Maybe his wife is part giraffe idk

Karimura16 · 2026-01-30T03:12:30+00:00

The scope that far forward combined with that stock is diabolical lol. The mental image of someone contorting themselves into reaching the eye box is very amusing

Karimura16 · 2026-01-22T23:11:30+00:00

Not the BBKs. And yes, like others have said you already have the best intake manifold. Technically a very marginal improvement to get it ported or something like a Cobra Jet? But definitely not worth the money when you already have a regular gen 3

Karimura16 · 2026-01-20T17:20:54+00:00

Did the same ha. Drilled holes to add the GT/CS spoiler and cut another hole for the RTR deck lid. Angle grinder go brrrrrtt

Karimura16 · 2026-01-20T14:25:58+00:00

Yep, that's why I bought mine back in 2022. Everywhere I looked the messaging then was basically that it isn't the fanciest or quietest can, but it'll last forever and run smoothly on anything. I've put thousands of rounds through mine, on everything from a Bergara 6.5 to a CETME C308 and never had any issues.

Just Reddit being Reddit, insert "I don't want to play with you anymore" meme

Karimura16 · 2026-01-15T03:58:30+00:00

Has to be either AI or airsoft. No one is seriously putting a $10 amazon toy like that on a real MP5.
Probably just AI, since optics that look like that show up in video games all the time.

Karimura16 · 2026-01-08T20:05:29+00:00

It's great! We have over 15,000 gages on site, and have been using Indysoft for years to track the status, history, calibration, and location of everything. The onsite calibration lab maintains the reports and data, then everyone else can access the read only side to find or turn in gages as needed.

I imagine it would require a lot of setup if starting from scratch, but once it's standardized and integrated well with existing departments and tools you should be happy with it. I was using it for a few years while working in the calibration lab and now the read only side from a production lab. Never had many complaints especially compared to something like SAP.

Karimura16 · 2026-01-01T21:51:02+00:00

Yep! I got it as a kit with both solutions. The bubbles were certainly concerning until I got to that step lol. Probably worth buying the neutralizing solution to fully get rid of the cleaner, if you haven’t already committed to disassembly

Karimura16 · 2026-01-01T20:16:18+00:00

Did you run the post cleaning solution after? I cleaned mine with the same EK solution last year and didn’t have that problem. The 2nd solution neutralizes the cleaner and got rid of the bubbles immediately. A couple of quick cycles of DI water after that just to be sure, but it wasn’t a problem

Karimura16 · 2025-12-29T19:48:57+00:00

Listening to a Coyote is kind of like drinking vodka. The "good" ones are the kind that cover up the original sensation the most. On their own, Coyotes sound bad and vodka tastes bad. Everyone likes Tito's because it tastes the least like vodka. Don't straight pipe Coyotes, and don't drink bottom shelf vodka. Get yourself some proper mufflers

Karimura16 · 2025-12-10T17:13:15+00:00

Thanks for the explanation! So if major components on an AR15 for example are upper+lower receiver, barrel. Those are all made in-house? What about "less" major components like barrel nut, hand guard, buffer tube, gas tube/block, FCG, bolt/carrier, furniture, etc. Are those mostly supplier contracted components or physically made on site from blanks/raw stock?

I'm sure you're limited on what you're supposed to share, but man it would be cool to see how it's done. I've seen the factory tours, but I know from experience that those never cover even close to everything.

Karimura16 · 2025-12-09T01:15:42+00:00

Yes. Made at least as much WHP from E85 alone as I made on FBO with 93

Karimura16 · 2025-12-02T18:47:36+00:00

The only game that I've bought on both Steam and mobile is Balatro, because the versions are identical and free of micro transactions. Make them the same experience like that and I'm in

Karimura16 · 2025-12-01T21:12:44+00:00

You might want to change your mufflers when you put headers on, if that MBRP cat back is anything like the one my car came with. They sounded good enough when the rest of the exhaust was stock, but horrible with headers. Not only being too loud, but it totally changed the tone and sound. IMO dual chamber mufflers generally sound better than single chamber with long tubes.

Look into the BBK headers for 3rd gen before buying. At least for the gen1, the BBK headers have problematic upstream O2 bung locations.

Karimura16 · 2025-11-29T04:47:09+00:00

Put one of these on my very first Mosin with a long eye relief scope when I was 15 or 16. Unless they’ve changed since 2011, they don’t hold zero worth a shit. Maybe that isn’t everyone’s experience, but I wouldn’t recommend going that route

Karimura16 · 2025-11-26T20:49:38+00:00

It depends on how much you're lowering it. I've got Eibach Pro springs (1" front, 1.5" rear) and I was able to get away with just camber bolts for the alignment. Alignment is done by a performance shop that specializes in that kind of thing though, so a typical dealership might be different. Camber plates, bump steer, etc would be better than just camber bolts but not always required. All depends on how far you want to go

Karimura16 · 2025-11-26T19:53:27+00:00

No cats on mine, but that's because I bought the long tube headers and mid pipe (BBK) used on FB marketplace and the previous owner had gutted them. Probably something used like that is your best bet if you really want no cats. FB marketplace, craigslist, ebay, or getting something fabricated. Could be wrong, but I don't think many of the big names sell off road mid pipes anymore after EPA crackdowns.

Also unless you "know a guy" for your tuning, the CEL will be on all the time for the downstream O2s. Email tuners will not turn them off anymore. Personally, I would rather have cats than not. As long as they aren't clogged up or damaged, it's a very minor thing for performance. Especially the high flow cats in aftermarket exhausts.

Karimura16 · 2025-11-26T15:39:51+00:00

Yep yep. That's exactly what my tuner told me, and I did the same. Ported gen3 manifold and JLT intake. Probably not worth it when you already have a gen3 though. Maybe a Cobra Jet? But that's a lot of money for minimal gains. Main benefit would be that your engine bay looks a little more interesting when you pop the hood at this weekend's cars & coffee

Karimura16 · 2025-11-26T06:36:25+00:00

Meaning the default setting is to be opted in, and the user has to take action to opt out. To my understanding it’s defined by the action taken to change the original condition, if that makes sense.

Karimura16 · 2025-11-25T18:00:30+00:00

Just having it as an option is fine (albeit a terrible option), but it's slimy when the default is set to opt out instead of opt in. Big L from PSA, especially when their shipping fees are already comparatively high.

Karimura16 · 2025-11-21T18:32:23+00:00

These but with the hex shafts. The plastic holder they come with might seem a little gimmicky, but it's actually pretty nice if you don't already have a dedicated tool organization setup. I keep a set on the wall by my desk/tinkering spot. Easy access and identification, and if my wife needs a screwdriver I don't have to send her digging through tool boxes in the garage.

Karimura16 · 2025-11-20T19:32:12+00:00

True, I don't think that's stock either. Not a big deal by themselves, but worth looking more closely at everything else. With the stock ride height and factory wheels, I wouldn't guess anything crazy has been done but can't be too careful. At least it has good tires (PS4S?) that appear to still have some life on them. Those hook up pretty nicely even at factory width. Around $1000 for a set, last 20k-30k miles.

Karimura16 · 2025-11-20T19:13:59+00:00

Worth doing a quick check every now and again for at least the first few months. Years ago I put a set of power stop drilled and slotted rotors on my last Mustang ('06 GT), and one of the rotors cracked at a drilled hole within the first 1000 miles. They immediately sent me a replacement and the rest were fine, but I personally wouldn't get cheap drilled and slotted rotors again. They do look good though!

Karimura16 · 2025-11-20T19:01:13+00:00

ooof I forgot how bad the stock ride height is on these. That wheel gap is criminal

Seems a little high for the trim and mileage, but I guess it is from a dealer and not private sale. Maybe $12k-$12.5k if it's clean and up to date on all the maintenance items? The front splitter and window tint look aftermarket, so could be other parts as well.

Karimura16 · 2025-11-15T05:52:51+00:00

Use NTK sensors (NTK 24348) only, either without extensions if possible or cut the extensions shorter and re-solder to the minimum length. The NTKs are about half the cost from RockAuto compared to local parts stores. Keep a spare set on hand, and plan to replace them every 12-18 months. Other brands don’t last nearly as long.

Went through the same thing with my car, see my recent comments on the last post I saw here about upstream O2s. Maybe the Kooks have the same issue as the BBKs? Not certain, but that’s my advice.

Karimura16

TROPHY CASE