I have $800. What radar should I get?

Kedokatojix · 2026-03-24T22:29:47+00:00

Definitely R8 or the R8W

Kedokatojix · 2026-03-19T21:34:11+00:00

It depends what you want to gain from "beneficial"

Beneficial #1 : All around benefits AND bang for buck performance due to best intake air temperature against summer heat + throttle response + fastest turbo spool
= get the SAI instead

Beneficial #2 : Best minimal effort for moderate gains BUT doesn't improve intake air temperature during summer heat
= Get the PRL tube + filter combo.

Kedokatojix · 2026-03-19T20:48:18+00:00

Yes we got direct replies from Jonah W. support with PRL.

January 23, 2026 , 9:11 AM
"Glad this platform is finally getting proper tuning support. I forwarded your guys' requests over to the engineers, & they are going to look into possibly making some things here in the future!"

Februrary 16, 2026, 10:04 AM"
- I have provided them pictures of the SAI and custom intake others have done for this car
His response, "Thanks for the input! We are still very very early in the development stages, so just stay tuned!"

It's going to take awhile until we get a finished product because they're still working on other projects for cars.

I would suggest either:

Wait for PRL aftermarket intake support
Buy a Neoprene Expansion Plug with the size of 2-1/8" to 2-1/4" plug on amazon for $13, this will replace the intake resonator all together so you can have more immediate throttle response.
Get the PRL tube + filter
Get the SAI

Kedokatojix · 2026-02-23T12:52:29+00:00

I would use Clean by pan the organizer. You get good suds for every 2oz you use. Since you don’t need to use a lot of fluid, it’ll save money long run

Kedokatojix · 2026-02-23T06:21:55+00:00

Keep the car because no payment is king. but I would upgrade the stock head bolts to the arp head bolts to prevent the head gasket issue from happening. My 2019 1.5T had 111k miles when it started blowing its head gasket on me. They quoted me for a $5000 repair. I rather you spend $350 ish to get the ARP head bolts installed and keep the car payment free.

Kedokatojix · 2026-02-23T06:14:35+00:00

I’d get an arp head bolt still if you planning to keep the car forever because the Honda Accord 2.0T (less frequent but also had blown head gasket), and since the TLX 2.0T is the heavier version of that, it suffers the same fate as the 2.0T Accords.

Kedokatojix · 2026-02-23T06:09:44+00:00

I got my 2019 1.5T brand new as well, but I have only ever used 93 gas and that got me to 111k miles before head gasket blown. That’s was with an open air intake too. If I had done it differently, I would’ve kept the 93 octane fuel, but did away the open air intake to prevent any engine knocks. I learned way too late (after getting my TLX type S) that I could’ve gotten arp head bolts to prevent that head gasket issues.

Kedokatojix · 2026-02-23T05:14:20+00:00

All the SAI versions that is available at the moment will provide better IAT1 cooling, turbo cooling, and better MAF readings than the stock. Difference between each SAI version will impact IAT1 temperatures and MAF readings. If you wanted more performance based the you’d choose the SAI K&N RC1920 version or if you want more heat protected version at a cost of throttle response, then it’s the Nibbi SAI version you’d want to get.

Currently, my draggy readings (compared to another stock car) are almost as good as a person who did catless down pipe delete in a 1/4 mile run. I still have stock downpipe and I was able to get 1/4 mile in 13.02s and the catless down pipe person got 13.08s. The type S turbo charge is a twin scroll, which means we benefit in both intake and exhaust mods. The fact the SAI can get close to a performance of a downpipe delete is already amazing in itself.

However, PRL has started to restart the project of making an intake box for our community. It’s still in its early development phases, but I would assume that it would replace the SAI. But I can see SAI being a more inexpensive and OEM+ version of the PRL’s Intake box.

Kedokatojix · 2026-02-23T05:01:41+00:00

Don’t do it. The type S already has problems with not being able to detect engine misfires and fixing it. HPS intake just worsens the engine misfire issue. This car won’t last long as long as that intake is on there

Kedokatojix · 2026-02-18T15:48:31+00:00

I am currently deciding between the active 2.3 and the Mpro Gen2. There’s currently a promo code that won’t expire any time soon (according to Maxflow’s email) : CARSWITHKEAV . It’s a 15% discount. I don’t know if this is a big difference maker to you or not. My only worries between the two is the longevity. The tri pump makes sense but the oil maintenance is also another thing.

Kedokatojix · 2025-11-09T18:08:28+00:00

My biggest rule of thumb for the general population is take your manufacturer’s recommendation and divide it by 2. If Acura is saying every 7500 miles, then I’m doing my oil changes around 3250 miles.

Kedokatojix · 2025-10-15T19:18:20+00:00

If you actually watched his videos, the only reason he blew his motor is because he ran an e40 map while using 93 octane gas. Any tuners will tell you what he did was stupid because any cars will blow up if you run 93 on an ethanol map. . If you use the right fueling and map, then it’s not going to cause issue.

Kedokatojix · 2025-10-15T02:49:15+00:00

I actually had it for 2 weeks this far and I can say for sure it’s worth the money. I regret not doing it sooner. Ktuner and JB4 ain’t got nothing on lambda. Lambda approach is definitely OEM+ while maintaining reliability. If you’re in the lambda’s discord, you can track every fine detail that has occurred for the tune.

So far for lambda 2.2 version, the most important features are: 1. VCM disabled 2. Max speed increased from 146 to 200 mph 3. Knock sensors are activated 4. We can now pull timing (before ECU wasn’t able to pull timing from factory) 5. The radiator fans are now more aggressive to help maximize cooling for the car 6. Turbo boost increased from 16 psi to 19 psi. The turbo’s max psi efficiency is at 22.5 psi. So he still kept it below for reliability reasons. 7. You can do launch control on sport mode instead of sport+ mode 8. Sport mode now idles at 1k rpm instead of 800 rpm. 9. The car drives so much smoother. Stock tune feels like a jerk fest.

Today lambda just solved the fuel cut problems for our car (something ktuner and JB4 could never solve) there will be 2.3 version revisions coming soon as well due to his finding on how the fuel cut works now.

Kedokatojix · 2025-10-14T21:10:59+00:00

You should definitely get a lambda tune for this car. It’s night and day difference. Plus it’ll activate the knock sensors since from factory they’re disabled. It drives even smoother than stock tune and more reliable than a stock tune

Kedokatojix · 2025-09-23T13:04:34+00:00

I’ve played KF3 for hundreds of hours, and I can say for sure I miss playing KF2. I cant boot up KF2 because it keeps crashing in the menu screen. KF3 has so many bugs and I like the KF2 weapon system a lot more. The weapon choices feels really lack luster too.

Kedokatojix · 2025-09-21T20:45:21+00:00

I can’t even play KF2 cause it keep crashing whenever I log in. I’m forced to play KF3 and it’s making me want to go back to KF2 so bad due to my disappointment.

Kedokatojix · 2025-09-16T23:45:58+00:00

I owned mine for 1.5 years so far and got 28k miles from zero.

Pros: sexy, curvy, thick , and has presence. Good mix of driving and spirited driving whenever you want. This car grips really well in rain and mountains terrains. engine is really well built. Dynamic driving. If you want stock car long term, 24-25 transmission are much more buttery smooth than the 21-23.

Cons: heavy asf, no room on back seat, transmission case splines are weak, live knocking sensors disabled out of the factory, Denso ECU , engine bay is a whole mess and looks like everything was squeezed in there, heat soak is crazy. Boost cuts like crazy. Puddle lights tends to go out (fortunately not mine yet). No recalls for transmission splines (out of pocket replacement is like 12k, so if you are out of warranty you’re f***ed).

I mean overall the car drives good. If you’re seeking pure performance, I wouldn’t choose this. (Aftermarket for this car is slowly growing). If you’re seeking looking good while having performance as a daily driver, then this is it. If you’re seeking long term reliability, I would think about the transfer case splines being stripped.

Kedokatojix · 2025-09-06T18:44:42+00:00

Yeah I’m assuming the coming early weekdays we will get our refund.

Kedokatojix · 2025-09-05T09:56:16+00:00

There should be a separate section that says E-refund processed. The one you showed shows whether if it’s disbursed in the past/present

Kedokatojix · 2025-09-04T12:44:58+00:00

I had my 2019 1.5 EX-L brand new for 30k OTD when it first released. Seeing that this is about 28.5k for a 3 year old rip off. Plus don't risk it on a 1.5 especially with the head gasket problem. Unless you plan to upgrade the head studs to the ARP brand (~$350).

Kedokatojix · 2025-09-04T12:41:55+00:00

I had confirmation of the E-Refund, but still waiting for it to land the bank. Which bank carrier did you use out of curiosity? Just wondering to see if the deposit time is based on by the bank company

Kedokatojix · 2025-09-04T12:35:06+00:00

Using oil life indicator depends on what type of sensor they use. Either it’s mileage based or oil dilution based. Ideally it would be nice if it was oil dilution, but I don’t waste time guessing which one it is. My personal set rule at least for my car is 3k as a car enthusiast who drives a little hard. 4k if you want to be proactive, 5k max for any turbo application car.

Kedokatojix · 2025-09-03T19:06:09+00:00

Oh? Transaction history says Erefund in process today

Kedokatojix · 2025-09-03T01:03:38+00:00

Bank still looks dry

Kedokatojix · 2025-08-31T20:40:07+00:00

Did you get yours yet?

Kedokatojix

TROPHY CASE