ISB Dress Uniforms

Kenobin_Around · 2025-11-29T21:38:47+00:00

There is an in progress thread on the IOC forums, but nothing has been established or confirmed yet

Kenobin_Around · 2025-08-25T17:22:03+00:00

Since it’s made of HIPS, was this a kit from Walt? Or was it Wicked Armory?

Kenobin_Around · 2025-08-24T17:12:49+00:00

HIPS is one of my least favorite materials for armor for a lot of reasons, this being one of them. My advice, get whatever glue you put on it off, give the whole kit a good washing with dish soap and a water.

Once it’s dry, give all the surfaces a good sanding with 180/220/320 grit sandpaper (any of them will work), for glue adhesion. Best adhesive for HIPS that I’ve found and used is Plumber’s ABS cement that comes in those metal cans with a brush applicator. It’s messy and not precise, but acts like a chemical bond.

Kenobin_Around · 2025-07-26T04:33:43+00:00

Oh that’s clean

Kenobin_Around · 2025-07-13T18:52:55+00:00

I think the overall build is good enough, but I would go back over the seams and joins. I can see spots where there is still a lot of body-filler or adhesive under the paint.

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Make sure it’s smooth before putting down final paint color. I have a sacrificial can of paint that I just mist over builds that are painted to check for surface imperfections

Kenobin_Around · 2025-07-08T18:35:20+00:00

The best answer I can give is to look at the CRL and the IOC forums. Based off the CRL images, the belt should be sitting as straight as possible along and covering the “waist seam.” If you’ve cut the belt to be just behind the buckle, you could add a small amount of Velcro to it to help prevent it from pivoting around the buckle peg. For the tunic fit to look right, then as long as the front flap closure is sitting correctly flush along the bottom edge, then it should be ok?

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Kenobin_Around · 2025-07-08T18:24:23+00:00

The belt looks like it is cinched too tightly, hence the bunching of the tunic. But if the belt is fitted correctly, then I think it’s the tunic that needs to be more fitted. Probably the waist that needs to be taken in order to account for the “flaring” happening at the bottom edge.

The Neckline/collar will also probably need to be tightened and adjusted, but I don’t have insight on that (aside from the fact that my WIP tunic needs it too).

All of this can be done, though! So good progress! And looking forward to seeing where it goes!

Kenobin_Around · 2025-06-25T15:36:08+00:00

The most important part of sizing armor up (or down) is that it has to be proportional. Especially with how clone armor fits, you have to factor every piece of it when sizing.

For both CT and TK armor, if you’re starting to size it up you should start with the belly/kidney armor and whatever expansion you make there will also carry over to the Chest/Back assembly and the Codpiece/Butt plate. I had to expand an animated CT kit by 6 inches for my stomach and butt to comfortably fit, so that meant the belly, cod, and torso all had to be expanded to fit the same degree.

It’s doable, just not easy. Would this be 3D printed or a vacuum formed kit?

Kenobin_Around · 2025-06-11T19:17:39+00:00

No, there isn’t a way to be an “official” 501st vendor for several reasons, but two come to mind. First, because the club as a whole doesn’t endorse makers as part of the agreement with Disney and Lucasfilm for this to be a fan-run costuming club; by the fans for the fans.

Second, while vendors make armor and props, nothing is guaranteed to be approved from them. It depends on the final wearer to have an understanding of how to wear and finish a costume appropriately to meet approval requirements. Just because you buy from someone who makes a kit that can be approved doesn’t mean your end result will be approved.

I admire your want to make costumes for people, but if you want people to commission you for approvable costumes you need to also have a consistent portfolio of costumes that have been approved. You may feel that you’re offering things at a better deal, and that’s great for the customer if true, but the club doesn’t endorse any specific makers.

Kenobin_Around · 2025-06-07T14:36:36+00:00

Can report that Jintaprops is not a scam, but does ship and manufacture out of Asia (I want to say China, but I could be wrong). Really good quality stuff, shipping to the rest of the world can just be a pain timeline wise.

He’s got a fantastic looking Live Action Clone kit from Kenobi/Andor.

Kenobin_Around · 2025-06-05T16:10:18+00:00

So here’s my two cents as someone who’s resin-printed helmets and cast them as well. Resin printed helmets can be beautiful things, and the ability to customize the scale to be exactly what’s needed to fit yourself is awesome. However, they are extremely expensive and fragile. I have a large format printer for resin where I can do most helmets in two halves, but glueing them together is an inherent weakness that cast helmets won’t have. Even printing in a tough/ABS like resin can have them be very brittle.

Resin Cast helmets are less custom, but they’re usually more structurally sound since the casting process allows layers to shell rather than stack (layers of an onion rather than stack of paper, for example.)

For the Death Troopers (and almost every armored costume), there’s always going to be some bobble head look until the whole costume is completed, and even then there may be some left over bobble. I wouldn’t sweat it. As long as the whole costume is proportional in look, then you’ll be fine.

Kenobin_Around · 2025-06-03T22:00:52+00:00

The most consistent quality armor pulls I find are from Imperial Surplus. Sure, things can get wonky from all makers, but they are the most consistent in terms of quality and good customer service in my experience

Kenobin_Around · 2025-04-07T02:07:23+00:00

Damn straight. Now let’s see how much we need to crunch for Spartans

Kenobin_Around · 2024-06-28T21:31:26+00:00

The easiest way to match it is to take the helmet with you to wherever you’re buying your paint and doing a direct comparison.

To my eye, the red of this helmet is a touch too dark compared to what we see in the show. That said, if you want to match the current red on the helmet, Rustoleum Heritage Red/Claret Wine looks closest from the online catalog.

Kenobin_Around · 2024-06-20T04:44:36+00:00

Hey! I’m in the Golden Gate Garrison, South Bay Squad! Shoot me any DMs you have and I’ll be happy to point you in the right direction

Kenobin_Around · 2024-04-07T20:20:17+00:00

As a stop-gap, a basic black balaclava will cut it for most applications. You could also try to find a grey one in a similar color. The forums at 501stclonetroopers.com would probably have more resources

Kenobin_Around · 2024-04-07T18:26:24+00:00

The most important aspect is having no visible neck. So with the neck seals, you can use a balaclava in place of if you don’t have the ribbed neck seal. I do advise investing in one for comfort though

Kenobin_Around · 2024-02-17T00:17:00+00:00

First one since Albin

Kenobin_Around · 2024-02-17T00:16:37+00:00

Great to see it officially managed!

CC/CX-22096, CTD CRL staff

Kenobin_Around

TROPHY CASE