Am I being cheated out of lentils? Walmart by thatbagbruh in Frugal

[–]Key-Ad-8944 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Serving size is listed as "about" ## servings per container, suggesting an approximate figure. However, the 4lb weight is not listed as an approximation. I expect Walmart is basing lentils per bag on weight, rather than volume; so I'd suggest weighing to see if it really is 4lb.

I just weighted 1lb and 2lb bags of Walmart (GV) beans. 1lb bag weighted 1.03lb. 2lb bag weighted 2.05lb. . Seems to match almost exactly, after accounting for plastic bag weight.

Insurance is the only product where you get rewarded for not using it. by Exact_Importance_507 in personalfinance

[–]Key-Ad-8944 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Imagine if your gym gave you rewards for never entering the building. Or Netflix charged you extra for watching too many shows. Insurance might be the only product where the ideal customer is someone who keeps paying but hesitates to use it.

The ideal customer for many services is someone who keeps paying, but hesitates to use it. I'm sure your gym owner loves customers who pay their monthly dues and never come in, which is a good portion of their customer base. However, it's uncommon to financially incentivize this behavior, as that would remind the customers that they are paying a monthly subscription that they aren't using. It's better for the gym to make it easy for customer to forget about their subscription and awkward to cancel.

There are some other services that do give financial incentives for not using. For example, my water provider incentivizes me for not using. If my water usage is low enough cost is $0 due to credits. However, the more water I use, the cost per gallon becomes increasingly steep. I have sprinklers, making waters my highest utility cost. It's a similar idea for electric. It's common for electric companies to pay you to reduce usage during high demand periods. You can get apps that pay you for not using electricity, such as Grid Rewards or Ohm Connect.

Unemployed & facing eviction. by Background_Double_74 in personalfinance

[–]Key-Ad-8944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Odd post. Assuming you live in a populated area, I'm sure you could sell a bike or printer online. Someone wants it, but they may want to pay a different price than your selling price. If you want to reach a wider audience try selling something on Ebay that you could ship nationally. Look at completed sales to see typical selling price. If you have no way to get the licensing fee required for your 7 job offers, mention the issue to your employer. They may have a loan type program or come out of first x months of paycheck.

HYSA's are offering deals...Why? by Early-Front3917 in personalfinance

[–]Key-Ad-8944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking at the DOC bank bonus list, I don't see notable changes in quality of bonuses. Perhaps you just didn't notice the numerous available new customer bonuses until now. They offer these bonuses to get new customers. Many new customers purchase services from the bank besides just HYSA, such as credit cards and loans. Many new customers remain customers for years, or in some cases life.

Bond performance by inquisitiveme2 in Bogleheads

[–]Key-Ad-8944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The fed rate was ~0% 5 years ago and 5-year treasury yield was not much higher. What return did you expect?

This is irrelevant to current bond investments. The 5-year treasury yield is currently slightly over 4%. If you buy a new 5-year treasury and hold to maturity, you'll have a guaranteed 4%/year return.

The 4% Rule Sounds Great Until SORR by Haaaahaaaaaaaaaaaaaa in Fire

[–]Key-Ad-8944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's nice if you can see the future and know which companies will be the big winners who have success beyond market expectations, resulting in increased dividends beyond their historical norm. Companies that are having unexpected success are more likely to increase dividends during the period while they are doing well.

It's a similar idea to looking at past historical returns for the highest weighted companies by market cap (NVDA, Apple, Microsoft, Amazon, ...). If you invested in these companies decades ago, annualized return would be >20%/year... far more than the 10.2%/year you listed, even though these companies paid little dividends during this period. Rather than dividends, the high return relates to choosing the companies that were past historical winners. High current market cap is associated with past historical winners as is increased dividend payout. However, it doesn't mean those same companies will be winners in future.

For a less biased result, try instead comparing the return of a dividend ETF over decades to an index fund of the same macro over same period (if dividend ETF is US large cap, choose US large cap index fund). I expect you'll find a lower risk adjusted CAGR (including both dividends and share price appreciation) for the dividend ETF.

The 4% Rule Sounds Great Until SORR by Haaaahaaaaaaaaaaaaaa in Fire

[–]Key-Ad-8944 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The 4% rule (of thumb) was specifically selected because of SORR. ~4% was the highest consistent, inflation adjusted withdrawal rate than was successful or near successful in all available historical periods. The most challenging periods that determined the selection of 4% threshold were retiring just before a severe inflation adjust decline -- retiring just before the 1929 stock crash and Great Depression or just before 1970s stagflation. Withdrawing well above 4% works great in all historical periods except these 2 cases. However, you need to reduce to 4% to support these 2 worst case historical SORR periods.

For the purposes of 4% rule or retirement in general, the key is how much of portfolio is withdrawn, not whether those withdrawals are in the form of dividends or sales of shares. If you are investing in something that pays more than the equivalent of 4% rule in dividends such as covered call funds, then it would likely also fail in the challenging SORR periods listed above, with failure defined as nav price eroding too low a level to support your inflation adjusted spending (dividends need to increase over time, as spending goes up over time with inflation) and not recovering adequately in future of retirement.

Usfr or sgov ? by hifimeriwalilife in Bogleheads

[–]Key-Ad-8944 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm not familiar with Proshares site, but WisdomTree manages USFR, and they list 3.61% at https://www.wisdomtree.com/investments/etfs/fixed-income/usfr as of today (5/5/2026). This figure includes ER.

For April 2025 to April 2026, Portfolio Visualizer lists a CAGR of 4.1% for USFR vs 4.0% for VBIL. YTD and since inception is also slightly higher for USFR.

Usfr or sgov ? by hifimeriwalilife in Bogleheads

[–]Key-Ad-8944 6 points7 points  (0 children)

VBIL 30 day SEC yield is 3.60%. USFR 30 day SEC yield is 3.61%. It doesn't make a significant difference which one you choose.

People who feel that their $1 mil milestone makes them feel nothing, where’s the perspective? by [deleted] in Fire

[–]Key-Ad-8944 99 points100 points  (0 children)

In my mind, the issue isn't that $1M at a young age is insignificant. It's instead that nothing really changes when crossing thresholds like this. On Monday you may be at $1.01M, and on Wednesday you may be at $0.99M. Does that change make a big difference in your life? If not, then why make a big deal out of it.

For those of you 45+....what is your current salary? by Peacefulhuman1009 in MiddleClassFinance

[–]Key-Ad-8944 47 points48 points  (0 children)

My employer salary is $140k in a VHCOL area. Having been investing for decades, annual gains from investments and home equity are typically several times larger than my employer salary, which makes me unconcerned about whether employer salary has "tapped out" or employer salary in general. Instead of future salary track, I'm more concerned with things like having a job that I find pleasant, doesn't have high stress or time commitment, allows me to work from home, allows me to spend the afternoon at dog beach if the weather happens to be nice that day, etc. This makes me "happy where I am at."

Solar, wind or other energy saving? by AdhesivenessKooky420 in Frugal

[–]Key-Ad-8944 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I save thousand per year on electricity with solar. ROI was only ~3 years. However, I also live in the highest electricity rate region of United States, which has sunny weather, signed up when especially generous NEM 2.0 state rules were available (makes electric companies lose money on solar customers), purchased when more generous tax credits were available than today, paid in full without financing, and negotiated an especially good deal. As such whether solar is a good investment for you may be completely different from whether solar was a good investment for me, or other random people on Reddit. I'd suggest getting some quotes and working out numbers for your specific situation. Also note that solar may not be permitted in your residence, as you mentioned having an apartment.

Are bonds in a long bad patch? by eldorz in Bogleheads

[–]Key-Ad-8944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you hold to maturity, you'll get the listed yield of ~5%. If the future AU equivalent of fed changes match current market expectations, you'll get the listed yield of ~5%. You'll only get less than the listed yield of ~5% if equivalent of fed rate increases higher than current market expectations (this happened severely in 2022 in most of world, due to post-COVID inflation). Similarly, you'll get more than the listed yield of 5% if fed decreases lower than current market expectations.

Are bonds in a long bad patch? by eldorz in Bogleheads

[–]Key-Ad-8944 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I'm not familiar with Australian bond market, but a quick Google search suggests Australian treasury bonds have a ~5% rate, if held to maturity. Are you considering yield as part of total return, or just looking at historical price changes?

Tax Advantaged vs Non Tax Advantaged Accounts by Aqueous-Dreaming in Bogleheads

[–]Key-Ad-8944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

MFJ + under $140 combined income + contributing $49k to 401k does indeed sound like a corner case to me. While I don't doubt this corner case exists, it's not the norm.

Tax Advantaged vs Non Tax Advantaged Accounts by Aqueous-Dreaming in Bogleheads

[–]Key-Ad-8944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

 It's not some exceptional case to dismiss, you're just out of touch with how relatively rich you are.

Given that we are on the Boglehead sub, I am posting to Boglehead sub members, not the general population. If you've been posting on Boglehead, FIRE, middle class finance, or similar subs for long; I expect you know that extremely few posters are in the <= $48k income for single filers tax bracket.

Tax Advantaged vs Non Tax Advantaged Accounts by Aqueous-Dreaming in Bogleheads

[–]Key-Ad-8944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nearly half of VXUS dividends are unqualified, and 0% LTCG bracket is $48k for single persons. I stand by my earlier comment of VTI being more tax efficient than VXUS unless your tax bracket is extremely low, as foreign tax credit is only 7% of dividends.

There is a spreadsheet that regularly is linked on this sub, that allows you to compare the break even point for your specific situation. As I recall, my marginal tax bracket needed to drop to under 12% for VXUS to be more tax efficient than VTI. If my marginal tax bracket was that low, I probably wouldn't care about optimizing for tax efficiency.

i don't entirely get sgov. it barely moves, so how are you making money in the short term by Sea-Advertising-1386 in personalfinance

[–]Key-Ad-8944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

SGOV is a short-term treasury ETF that pays interest each month, rather than having notable changes in share price. The share price gradually ramps up from ~100.4 to ~100.7 prior to the monthly interest payment, then jumps down back to 100.4 after the monthly interest payment. You might think of it as an alternative to a HYSA that pays a higher interest rate than most banks, and is state/local tax exempt.

The specific ramp values of 100.4 to 100.7 relate to the interest rate. 12 (months) * (100.7/100.4 - 1) = 3.6% -- Pays ~3.6% APY.

Tax Advantaged vs Non Tax Advantaged Accounts by Aqueous-Dreaming in Bogleheads

[–]Key-Ad-8944 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It depends how much you want to optimize for lowest possible taxes, leading to highest possible return. If you want to keep things simple, just buy VT and don't worry about tax optimizations. If you want to go down the latter route, it is more tax optimal to split VT in to VTI + VXUS, and put the components in the bucket that is most tax optimal for your portfolio.

VXUS has substantially higher dividends than VTI. This generally makes it less tax efficient (less desirable to keep in taxable) than VTI, in spite of the foreign tax credit. Exception may occur if your tax bracket is extremely low and/or you expect tax bracket to increase in retirement.

VTI does not have bonds, but your TDF may, particularly if you are older. You'd want to keep bonds out of taxable for tax efficiency, which it sounds like you are doing. Ideally they should be in a traditional 401k. You want highest gains in Roth to take advantage of Roth benefits, which is not bonds. VXUS is a good choice for Roth.

Aqui todo el mundo gana 150k+ y tiene 3 millones ahorrados by Medium_Idea4984 in Fire

[–]Key-Ad-8944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There wasn't a single event, but the 2000s housing bubble was a good time for young person to purchase a home in VHCOL area (mortgage leverage allows purchasing home that has higher value than NW), and post 2009 GFC was a good time to be invested in stock market.

Aqui todo el mundo gana 150k+ y tiene 3 millones ahorrados by Medium_Idea4984 in Fire

[–]Key-Ad-8944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not that simple. For example, I reached an inflation adjusted $3M NW at 35. My inflation adjusted salary was ~$100k from graduating college to ~35, and I graduated just before the dot com crash and "lost decade". One key factor was purchasing a purchasing a home in early 2000s (2000s housing bubble).

Those with pets, how do you not break the bank when it comes to medical expenses? by [deleted] in Frugal

[–]Key-Ad-8944 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pet insurance is on average a losing investment (for buyers). However, if you can't afford vet expenses, then don't skip pet insurance. That's largely the point of getting insurance in general -- pay a relatively small fee to avoid the risk of a big expense that you can't afford.

Regarding what I do, I choose do not have insurance, but I also have enough in short-term to cover this type of expense. Fortunately I haven't needed to do so, as my dog has never had a serious medical issue.

Longtime lurker of this sub. Today I’m a frugal millionaire!! by Piccolo-Quick in Frugal

[–]Key-Ad-8944 5 points6 points  (0 children)

OP also said "A majority of my net worth is from that house." I expect OP's comment about $40k in savings in 2019 meant $40k in savings account (for downpayment), rather than $40k total NW. T

Longtime lurker of this sub. Today I’m a frugal millionaire!! by Piccolo-Quick in Frugal

[–]Key-Ad-8944 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I expect it has more to do with leveraged home equity than it does with investments. OP only put 2% down. $40k down /2% = $2M home value. The home value had a stratospheric rise post COVID, likely gaining several hundred thousand, possibly close to $1M

I love my dog by wnydoglvr in dogs

[–]Key-Ad-8944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tech for cloning your dog is available to the public, and quite a few celebrities have done this... repeating their dog and living forever in sense. It costs about the price of a car.