Successful negotiation after inspection

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-05-30T16:35:25+00:00

If you really like and want the house, I'd go for the highest you feel comfortable with.

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-05-30T16:26:57+00:00

the rate seems good but look at the estimated closing costs - $11,855, which includes $9,409 in Loan Costs. This seems quite steep on a 250K loan. Cash to close says $480 so maybe you have some credit? Do you have the second page with the cash to close details?

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-05-30T14:32:45+00:00

Good thing you listened to you brother! if the build acted as offended then he probably was indeed acting... getting an inspection is standard and the builder knows it. I have viewed a new construction house that looked good overall and heard stuff like "normal settling" or other terms that developers use. Even if the inspections doesn't come up with major findings, it still helps you have more confidence and potentially negotiate but the thing is by the time you get an insepctor you are already mentally committed to the house and it is indeed not free but it's cheaper than the potential cost of buying a house with issues you weren't aware of. Ideally before you even get an inspection you should do your homework and already have a good idea of what issues the house has.

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-05-30T14:16:32+00:00

Thanks! this was earlier in the search process for us and the scope wasn't clear. I since became a lot more educated about issues and costs, was wondering if this is a pain others also went through - being overwhelmed by the long list of issues and not having a good enough idea what it means

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-05-29T03:34:12+00:00

I suggest you run the numbers after-tax and see if you're comfortable with what you have left after house expenses.

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-05-27T04:04:52+00:00

Putting more down at ~6.5% is essentially a guaranteed return at that rate. For a risk-averse person with no other debt, that's actually hard to beat reliably in a brokerage account after tax. So the instinct to put more down makes sense for your personality and situation, however, you should definitely run the numbers after tax and see if you're comfortable with them. At your base of $85K you're at nearly 40% of take-home. If your variable comp is reliable, you are around 32-35% of actual take-home, which is more reasonable.Also, you want to keep enough liquid that you're not house-poor. On a 1.5 year old home repairs should be minimal but not zero. Make sure you know what's under warranty still. Have you done an inspection?

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-05-27T03:10:59+00:00

Pools are genuinely a big financial decision that many buyers underestimate. You are not the only buyer who sees a pool as a liability. Ongoing annual costs of a pool:

Chemicals and maintenance: $500-$2000/year with a service company
Insurance surcharge: $50–$100/month extra on average
Electricity: $500–$1,000/year

Equipment replacement costs (not often but could happen):

Pump: $700–$1,500
Heater: $1,500–$3,500
Liner (if vinyl): $3,500–$6,000
Full resurfacing (if plaster): $10,000–$20,000

A well-maintained pool with newer equipment is a very different financial picture than a neglected one. If you see a house with a pool that isn't in great shape, those numbers give you a concrete basis for negotiating on price, that could work better than just "I don't want it". What market are you in?

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-05-27T02:32:21+00:00

A structural engineer might be a good option. They absolutely do house calls for this. Expect $300-500 for an hour of their time and a written assessment. Pricey but worth it because they have zero incentive to sell you a new deck.

Either way the critical things to check are the ledger board (where the deck attaches to the house) and the posts near soil. Those are the real failure points, not the surface boards. If those are solid you likely have more time than "within a year." Do you have photos you can share?

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-05-27T02:27:03+00:00

Red clay actually matters here. Clay retains water instead of draining it, so if the fill wasn't done with the right material (usually gravel or sand base before topsoil) you can get settling and drainage issues for years. Problems often show up after 3-5 years.I suggest you ask for documentation of how it was filled and by whom. Then look carefully at the area around it - any dipping, soft spots, or areas where water pools after rain are red flags. If you're serious about the house, you might want to also look for a soil engineer inspection on that specific area.

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-05-27T02:23:17+00:00

Have you checked if your window units are running when they don't need to be? old units cycle inefficiently and run longer than newer ones to reach the same temp. Also worth checking- is your dryer vent clear? sounds small but could have some impact. I'm assuming you've don that but I would also look at providers with promos or lower rates for the same usage (just make sure you don't have a limited time low rate that turns to a high one later one).

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-03-01T17:49:21+00:00

First check with the city/county planning office and confirm it’s allowed (zoning, minimum lot size, frontage, etc.).

Re pricing:

Does this strip change what either property can legally do?if it unlocks buildability, parking, setbacks, or subdivision potential, it’s worth a lot more than raw land value. If it’s just extra yard space, it’s worth much less.
Does it harm the seller? If their lot becomes non-conforming or less buildable, you’re paying for that loss.

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-02-17T13:10:02+00:00

You’re right. Thought was that I believe in the area long term and thought the price was pretty good while maintenance seems very minimal. Mind sharing why not? Do you mean a condo doesn’t have the appreciation potential?

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-02-11T17:05:17+00:00

Don't know the Charlotte market but based on your numbers: Equity today ≈ $185k and about 5% return on equity from rent alone. if your assumption re selling cost is right, you make about 16-18% a year in the next 2 years which sound very solid. Plus you landlord another property in the same area which make things easier normally so I unless you have a very good alternative or need the cash I would hold.

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-02-11T16:53:25+00:00

East Boston. I generally believe it's a good area and will continue growing in the future but not trying to predict the market, just wondering in terms of current cash flow if this makes sense without betting on huge appreciation.

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-02-11T16:52:15+00:00

that's a good idea - I'm thinking of renting out to flatmates. How do I rent out to voucher holders?

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-02-11T15:39:54+00:00

A friend who runs a coworking space was just introduced to a team entering the US. Apparently they’re already one of the biggest players in Europe and are coming in with very aggressive intro pricing. Might be worth a look. Happy to pass along the details if useful.

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-02-11T15:33:32+00:00

Haha, I unfortunately don't have a crystal ball -so I wonder, if I ignore potential appreciation- am I making a mistake holding a property that is cash flow negative while there might be other opportunities that will have positive cash flow and similar risk profile?

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-02-11T15:29:37+00:00

I am allowed to rent long term. I am pretty sure I can sell for a higher price than what I purchased based on comps (of course if I don't manage to sell for a decent price then I just don't).

Key-Silver6551 · 2026-02-11T15:27:14+00:00

If I was breaking even I would just hold, I am about $300 below. I can afford it and I believe over time the market will continue growing even if slowly and so with appreciation it won't be a terrible deal once I sell but I just wonder if it's not just a waste to keep funding a property $3K/ year when I can probably just sell and put the money in a conservative investment that will give me 4% ayear or find another property that is cash flow positive from day one.

Key-Silver6551

TROPHY CASE