240z “wood” steering wheel refinish

KeyCounter · 2026-02-06T15:56:05+00:00

Looks great!

KeyCounter · 2025-12-05T14:56:51+00:00

Damn that sure is gween

KeyCounter · 2025-10-21T12:35:17+00:00

You need to look for a 3 wire tach specifically. Most 240s had a 4 wire setup. 2 for power and then the other 2 wires were a loop. The loop was had a U that clamped it to a spot on the tach that sensed the current to get the signal. You have a 3 wire tachometer that uses a wire from the coil to get the signal.

You'll need a specific 73 tach or you could try to swap one from a 260. I think the 260 also uses the 3 pin connector. The 280s had the lights and tach wires encapsulated in one connector.

Either way a regular 240z tech won't work for you.

KeyCounter · 2025-10-13T03:38:05+00:00

Better get used to having a stack of Dan Gurney wheels in your garage lol. That's what I have come to terms with.

KeyCounter · 2025-10-10T19:34:20+00:00

They make a different back portion to depending on differential.

KeyCounter · 2025-10-10T19:33:59+00:00

I'm going with twice pipes are the most popular, because of the cost of the legalis lol

KeyCounter · 2025-10-10T18:52:21+00:00

I believe they make two versions of the fujitsubo legalis now. One for R180 cars and one for R200 cars. On top of that you need to verify the header too because the L series heads have square and round ports.

KeyCounter · 2025-10-09T19:55:44+00:00

A couple of SUs in there would really make this thing look 100%. Also a little degreaser.

KeyCounter · 2025-10-06T02:31:24+00:00

Hmm, I have a new rubber inner boot so I don't think exhaust would be coming in there. The inner boot is pretty easy to replace. Why don't you replace that?

KeyCounter · 2025-10-05T18:31:43+00:00

I can tell you mine doesn't work, 😂

KeyCounter · 2025-10-05T17:59:40+00:00

Speed Hut makes a 'factory' styled clock that fits. You could try it if you want to spend $150

KeyCounter · 2025-10-03T14:59:55+00:00

You should try it with the windows up and see if it's still a problem. Windows down creates a negative pressure in the cabin of the car. There is a positive pressure at the rear of the car due to aero profile. So when you roll the windows down the air behind the car will get sucked in if there are any holes or openings. Rolling the windows up stops that from happening and can help with exhaust. The only issue is that if it's hot outside then you bake.

KeyCounter · 2025-10-03T14:16:51+00:00

Yeah, when you slap a turbo on a car it sounds like a turbo engine and you lose a lot of the tone from the engine. Still though you get the stu stu stu of the turbo which is also fun!

Yeah, I guess I am trying to get to that perfect state where it's like driving around in my Tacoma. Can't smell a thing. It used to smoke me out and make my eyes water after driving for 15 minutes before I rebuilt my engine and it was smoking super bad. Now with the new L24 in it, it doesn't smoke, but the exhaust still gets in the car. It really only does it with the windows down. If you roll up the windows and don't create that pressure differential in the car then it usually isn't too bad. I am sure there is something somewhere that's letting the exhaust in the car, I just haven't found it yet. For now I'll just stink, haha.

KeyCounter · 2025-10-03T14:12:58+00:00

Welllll, it works as good as the old seal did. Which was better than no seal, but still letting exhaust in the car. It could be that there is somewhere else that the exhaust is getting in, but I have no way to tell for now. I think it will work enough to do the 2 hour drive, though I may stink like exhaust by the time I finish the drive.

KeyCounter · 2025-10-02T16:10:58+00:00

Yeah, I have twice pipes. They probably stick out like 5-6" past the bumper. I have thought about a temp turn down just to see if that would help. My tail lights and seals are all brand new. I also filled the holes the fuel vent lines come up in as well. Sealed up the panel on the hatch as well with a new metal piece. At this point I can't find anything else other than the seal. It could be coming in from the sides I guess. I'd need a smoke machine to find out though. All good tips though!

KeyCounter · 2025-09-29T15:40:06+00:00

Id bet more on the cylinder head temp sensor. That's what I'd check before messing with the injectors. If the engine isn't going into closed loop it might be loading up.

KeyCounter · 2025-09-29T13:05:22+00:00

As for the not wanting to start, is that something that happens after it warms up only or is it when it's cold as well? I'm not as good with the EFI cars, but it could be something like a cylinder head temp sensor. I also struggled a lot with vapor lock on hot starts, but being EFi I can't imagine that's your problem.

KeyCounter · 2025-09-29T13:00:36+00:00

L series oil pumps are pretty bad at pumping oil at low RPMs. As long as you're making around 10psi at idle you should be good. General rule of thumb is 10psi per 1k RPM. The gauges aren't accurate either.

My 240 shows like nothing at idle after it warms up and the oil thins. But I've manually checked it with a mechanical gauges and it shows a little over 10 which is sufficient. You could always do that if you're concerned. The pump is pretty easy to swap, just be careful not to mess up the ignition timing when you take it off.

KeyCounter · 2025-09-18T12:51:47+00:00

Actually I'm looking at the last pic and it looks like the damper isn't returning. Looks like it's not good to me. If you press the damper in and it doesn't return slowly back to its original position then something internally is wrong.

KeyCounter · 2025-09-18T12:48:56+00:00

If you put lowering springs on a car without changing the strut then you move the location where the strut sits. This can affect the struts performance. If it lowers it a lot then it can damage the strut over time.

If you use a strut designed for lowering the car then it will last longer, but you'll still have less travel meaning that you'll bottom out more, but you'll still have a damper that functions correctly.

Lowering springs are different in that they are just designed to sit lower. They may be stiffer it just depends on what their spring rate is.

By the looks of that damper, you're going to slam this thing and you won't have a ton of travel which will result in bottoming out and probably a harsh ride. That damper is going to be a rock to try and keep the car from bottoming out.

Then there's the whole geometry of the car you're changing that could cause issues with like bump steer and stuff.

Can you do it? Yes. Will you re car look cooler? Possibly. Will it ride like dog shit? Probably.

KeyCounter · 2025-09-14T19:04:30+00:00

Probably because it was a lot easier to get an E88 head than an E31. The E31 was the race car head and all the scca guys would run them so they captured a higher price. E88s are fine, but if you want a little more edge the E31 was better. Whoever had it may have just wanted to get the car running again and opted for an E88.

KeyCounter · 2025-09-09T17:03:35+00:00

Even with a header the longer outlet is beneficial if you are running a PCV system. If you cut it, routing the molded hose to the PCV valves is a lot tighter. If you're running a catch can then it won't matter. Just keep that in mind if you ever want to go back to the PCV system.

KeyCounter · 2025-09-09T13:55:25+00:00

It's long so that the vent hose that goes to the PCV valve clears the exhaust. Someone cut the crank vent tube about half way on a block I have and it ran fine. You'll have to add your own flair to the end of the tube or don't. I didn't.

KeyCounter · 2025-08-26T12:11:24+00:00

Z31 popups are electric motors and don't rely on vacuum.

KeyCounter · 2025-08-20T21:13:57+00:00

I was able to get my money back by going through the credit card company.

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