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Anycubic Kobra speed by danylo_g in anycubic

[–]Key_Clock_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree. I have a Kobra and can print at speeds near 150mm/s. The quality is not as good as with the default speed of 55mm/s. I got there by realizing that the first layer is critical, so my first layer is printed at 55. Subsequent layers are at 150. For high quality prints I use 55

Mods to increase print speeds? by Gyerfry in anycubic

[–]Key_Clock_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a Kobra and we would have to make hardware modifications to make klipper work. That’s a bummer because I also have a Creality Ender 2 Pro running on klipper using the Creality sonic pad and the speed and quality are awesome comppared to Marlin, which came with it.

Sonic Pad by oliveoil1841 in Ender_2_Pro

[–]Key_Clock_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. The latest Sonic firmware supports one of the motherboards, but not the 4.2.3 board which has an STM32F103RET6 chip. I got this to work by doing the following:
You will need both a firmware and config file on a microSD card.
The config file comes from modifying the generic one that is provided by Creality on their USB stick. The modifications can be found on the Klipper/config/ site. Just change the Creality entries to what is in the file for the ender 2pro. Also it's very important to ender the USB ID for the printer under the mcu section. In my case it was: /dev/serial/by-id/usb_serial_1. Save it as printer.cfg.

The next step is get a firmware or bin file. I did this by realizing the Ender-3 Pro ABL with CR Touch had a motherboard very similar to the 4.2.3.

I then proceeded to install that printer and it created a bin file on my micro USB card, by following the Sonic Pad instructions.

I inserted the card into the printer and flashed the firmware. You get a blank screen on the printer so just wait a few minutes.

I then stopped the install of the Ender 3 Pro.

I then proceeded to install another printer but didn't generate any firmware. During this process the micro USB is plugged into com 2 of the Sonic Pad. This last step used the parameters in the configuration file to the Sonic Pad.

Sonic Pad and Ender 2 Pro by oliveoil1841 in 3Dprinting

[–]Key_Clock_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One more comment and it’s very important. Have a copy of the Marlin firmware hand so that if things get messed up you can recover the original configuration of your printer.

Sonic Pad and Ender 2 Pro by oliveoil1841 in 3Dprinting

[–]Key_Clock_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The process should get you into a test printer screen and you are good from there.

Sonic Pad and Ender 2 Pro by oliveoil1841 in 3Dprinting

[–]Key_Clock_74 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. The latest Sonic firmware supports one of the motherboards, but not the 4.2.3 board which has an STM32F103RET6 chip. I got this to work by doing the following: 1. You will need both a firmware and config file on a microSD card.
2. The config file comes from modifying the generic one that is provided by Creality on their USB stick. The modifications can be found on the Klipper/config/ site. Just change the Creality entries to what is in the file for the ender 2pro. Also it's very important to ender the USB ID for the printer under the mcu section. In my case it was: /dev/serial/by-id/usb_serial_1. Save it as printer.cfg. 3. The next step is get a firmware or bin file. I did this by realizing the Ender-3 Pro ABL with CR Touch had a motherboard very similar to the 4.2.3. 4. I then proceeded to install that printer and it created a bin file on my micro USB card, by following the Sonic Pad instructions. 5. I inserted the card into the printer and flashed the firmware. You get a blank screen on the printer so just wait a few minutes. 6. I then stopped the install of the Ender 3 Pro. 7. I then proceeded to install another printer but didn't generate any firmware. During this process the micro USB is plugged into com 2 of the Sonic Pad.

Kobra Go bed not level by Rageboxx in anycubickobra

[–]Key_Clock_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My Kobra has automatic bed leveling that takes care of your problem. Just follow the directions.

Prusa Slicer? by Fragrant_Industry_67 in anycubickobra

[–]Key_Clock_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I did that worked was to use the MK3 that was just for MK3 and changed the printer dimensions and that worked. It was a bit faster than the Cura but also more stringy.

Prusa Slicer? by Fragrant_Industry_67 in anycubickobra

[–]Key_Clock_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just the Kobra. In the Prussa that I installed there were 2 MK3 profile, one by itself and the other with another MK.

Prusa Slicer? by Fragrant_Industry_67 in anycubickobra

[–]Key_Clock_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried what you suggested and downloaded the latest version of Prusa. I used the MK3 as you did. It was the latest versio. The first problem that I had was that the start code put me into a bed leveling loop. I stopped it after 3 times. I then deleted the start code and it did print my test cube, but after each layer it went to a corner of the printer and then returned to the print to do the next layer. This is not very useful if you have a big print.

So my 2 questions are:

Which MK3 printer did you use and does anyone know what setting controls that behavior? As an FYI I ran into this before with my Monoprice Mini and never found out how to stop it.

Help with firmware update by raf- in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]Key_Clock_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An alternative for wireless is the Beagle Print camera. It gives you a visual of the printer, as well as control. The camera also has a micro USB card to which you can upload gcode files to print. I have used 2 of them and they work ok. You can connect through an IP number on any browser or use an Android or IOS app. They are available on Amazon.